Engine stuck !

Ohio Mike

Member
Looking for ideas. I bought an Allis Chalmers tractor with stuck engine. I was wondering if anybody has had better luck with one product over another getting an engine unstuck. Thanks in advance. Boy what I get myself into from time to time. LOL
 
Well, I know old will probably say this when he gets in here, but usually you pull the spark plugs and pour in a tablespoon of transmission fluid (it's basically a penetrating oil, you see) into each of the holes [assuming a 4 cylinder gas engine, probably?]. This is done so it can work into the metal and then when you try to spin it (I say always try to give the thing a slow turns by hand with the crank, I'm always afraid if I use the starter it'll break something important). But after you pour the tranny fluid in, I'd say let it sit a week before you try it, so it has time to soak in if it's going to.
 
I know everyone has their favorites, but at one time or another I have tried just about every concoction, and over the last couple of years have found that Kroil seems to work the best. It has unstuck three engines for me this past year, 2 gas and 1 diesel. As far as method goes, time and occasionaly rocking the tractor back and forth by hand seem to work well. Hauling the tractor on a trailer (in gear, after soaking for some time) seems to work as well. Must get jarred back and forth.
 
How long ago has it been running? If it has been years, you may as well start taking it apart & see what is stuck. If it has been running recently ( a year or so ago) then it may come loose with soaking unless it was run out of oil and the bearings are stuck. All the ones I have gotten loose needed to be overhauled anyway. Take it apart & fix it right , then you know what you got.
 
I agree on the fact that when Old sees this his bet will be tranny fluid lol he says it works wonders for him. Haven't tried it so I can't say. the only one we broke free hadn't been stuck long and brake fluid did the trick.That was what we had and it worked
 
I have used and seen it used many times and it works great. That is rifle bore cleaner from the army surplus store. It is a known fact in our area on what it can do for old engines and parts. There are many of us in this area in the hobby and we all have a few cans in our shops.

As for the engine being stuck it is probably only two of the cylinders that is most likely rusted more than the others. It depends on which one(s) had their exhaust valves cracked open and let rain in, (the same may go for the the intake valves). Depends on what kind of intake manifold it has if it let water in or not. I have pulled the heads off of many stuck engines after trying to break them free. On a 6 cylinder engine I just recently tore apart had only two rusted cylinders, four of the pistons came right out and the other two I had to use force.
I have filled stuck cylinders with rifle bore cleaner then put air pressure to the cylinder by screwing a home made air fitting into the spark plug hole. This forced the oil around the piston and expanding the cylinder wall slightly to help break it loose.
 
Remember the valves may be stuck too. Make sure they are loose before you try to turn ot over or you will bend pushrods or rocker arms. Betterr to take it apart carefully, lots cheaper than replacing parts.
 
Ok so now I will post and yes ATF has and does work well and I have had very good luck with it over the years 10 plus by the way. I have used in in more then 20 stuck engines and out of the 20 18 or so have popped free and the others I had to open up. Fill the cylinders with ATF ONLY after making sure they are not full of water. If they have water in them pull the head and clean them out and then you will have to open them up more because standing water and cylinders do not mix
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top