Fuel tank liner

Spent part of the weekend cleaning up a gas tank on an Farmall H. Bought it couple years ago at a consignment sale. Ran good enough to sell it and it looked good on the outside. Carb was gunked, float stuck and fuel tank not good either but didn't realize it at the time. So after doing the carb last fall tried to fire it up this weekend. The inlet to the sediment bowl was plugged with some grey goop almost like antiseize but thicker. The tank had spoiled fuel in it after is sat in our barn for 3 years and a layer of rust on the bottom. I blasted with the pressure washer and used some citrus cleaner (orange solve) that did a good job in there. Now I have a tank that is somewhat clean at least on one side of the tank baffle.

With no galvanize in the tank any longer thinking about using fuel tank liner. Is that stuff really safe to use or am I asking for more problems? Any idea how I can clean on the other side of the baffle?

bill, i "ve put tank liners in myself, a lot of work to get the tank clean. i tumbled some with steel b b"s, strap the tank to the rear wheel of a tractor and drive around, and did one with muratic acid i think. the last tank i did i took it to a radiator shop and had them clean it and do the liner. cost about 100 dollars or so. a lot less work having them do it.

We had questioned using muratic acid to clean it. Is that a good idea or not? How long would you leave it in there?

Also thought about using electrolosis.

Either way you clean it you still have no corrosion protection inside when you are done.

I used OSPHO ,its a phosphoric acid on mine and had good luck,I first tested it on a rusty part that i treated with it and imerged it in gas all winter,In the spring it was still on the part and was hard,

i have done several tanks with kreem brand liner kit. the first one i did 15 years ago is still in good shape. its a time consumeing follow directions to the t job ,but was worth it.your right ,if you dont line it it will continue too rust.

I like the Eastwood tank kit. It has all you need and instructions.

I also buy there tank liner buy the acid at the hardware. When I use my own muriatic acid I dump in a gallon and leave it over night and in the morning fill the tank with water on top of the acid and let it set a day or so. After draining and rinsing with lots of water I dump in about a pint acetone or laquier thinner which ever I have around, swish it around good and drain it out. Let it set for a few hours and dump in the liner and rotate the tank as called for in the directions. Clean, clean, clean and dry is what it takes to get the liner to stick every where inside the tank. Funny though how well the liner sticks to dirty fingers, hands, shirts, shoes, and pants.

You should use phosphoric acid on steel. Google up muriatic and phosphoric acids and get the facts.

Gordo

used a kit from dupont on my s case a few years ago
came in 3 parts i think, cleaner, etcher & sealer little bit of work but did a great job
bob

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=244783&highlight=

As many tanks as I have done for myself I probably could Wright a book on how to line a tank,,, one thing for sure is its not EZ to prep a tank,,, clean are rusty,,, get’n the liner (paint) to stick is no different than prep’n paint to stick to a out side surface other than you can not get inside the tank to ruff it up,,, this is one reason I do not are will not trust a radiator shop to do a spray wash and go treatment to a tank of mine,,, its time consuming,,, I don’t think they spend the time (not at $100) to prep it like I would want it.

If the fill neck extends into the tank then Nuts, nails are small metal objects are what I use,,, any thang that I feel will not get trapped under a baffle,,, then I can fish’em out with a magnet. If I see I can sake small rocks out the fill neck I use pea gravel,,, If I see rust I can get my sand blaster to thru the fill neck I hit it first then fill with rocks,nuts are what ever,,, I want to rattle them around dry and get all of it out dry,,, once you wet the inside of the tank it hard to get your abrasives out

From then on it’s a matter of following the directions

I like to buy the larger kit,,, say 25 gal. Kit for a 10 gal tank,,, I usually have a few other tanks lay’n around so get more for the money but a large cycle tank kit will do a 10 to 20 gal. Tank EZ,,, I prefer to do tanks when its cold,,, the warmer it is the less time you have to get the liner to coat the hole inside of the tank,,, do’n more than one is a scramble,,, do’n one would not B a problem.

You get what you put into it,,, I have been useing por-15 but just gave KBY a try,,, google www.por15store.com

Find someone that has phosphoric acid, it will clean the rust off and the rust only. Some greenhouse companies have it and you may be able to buy some. It is a hazardous material so not everyone can haul it. It won't hurt to leave it in for two weeks either.

Muratic acid I would stay away from, it will cause rust almost immediately.

I have bought the fuel tank liner from my local Napa store in the quart cans.

In 12-15 years it comes loose and will cut off your fuel supply to the sediment bowl. I've had better luck with just plain fiberglass resin.