1700 torque and valve lash spec's needed (ASAP!!)

BKahler · Jun 23, 2009

Help!
I'm in the process of replacing a bad head gasket on my 1700 tractor and can't find my manual (we moved recently and it hasn't surfaced yet).

I have it all cleaned up and ready to install but need the following information:

Head nut torque spec
Head nut torque sequence
Valve lash (tappet) setting
Rocker pedestal nut torque spec

Also when setting the valve lash is there any particular order you're supposed to set them, etc?

I'm running blind here and really need to get the tractor running by tomorrow night.

Thanks!!!!

Brad

Anonymous-0 · Jun 23, 2009

sounds like thats a cockshutt,but yes theres a definite sequence to set them. either each cyl. on tdc. or you can roll it over twice and have them all set.i am giving info from my head so i dont have any #s.same with head, there is a sequence and torque step.sounds like your tak ling a job you have not done before. if you want more info give an engine make and model.

BKahler · Jun 23, 2009

I need the specs for a Ford 1700 (shibaru ?) 2 cylinder diesel engine. I haven't worked on this particular engine before.

I did find the torque spec which is 107 to 110 ft lbs. But I need to know what order to tighten them in and what the valve lash settings are and how to know when to set the lash on each valve.

Thanks!

Brad

Anonymous-0 · Jun 23, 2009

i am not familiar with that engine so i cant help you out.

Walterdavies · Jun 23, 2009

usually you start in the center and work in circle around the head moving from the center to outside this allows the head to set down evenly.

put the engine on TDC #1 adjust #1 valves then turn one full turn and adjust # 2 cylinder.
Walt

Welding man · Jun 23, 2009

First of all there is more than one thickness of head gasket for these engines , make sure you've got the right one or piston will hit the head.Head nuts torque 150-155 NM(not Foot Lbs).All Valves set at 0.3MM Cold.

BKahler · Jun 23, 2009

Thanks for the numbers. Converting Newtonian's to Ft Lbs I get 110 to 114 Ft Lbs.

I checked the parts manual for head gaskets and only one was listed for the 1700. That was the number the dealer provided as well so hopefully it will work

As for the torque sequence I plan on torquing them in the following order unless someone can gives me any different info:

5 2 6
3 1 4

Thanks again!

Brad

RodinNS · Jun 23, 2009

Why not call the NH dealer that you deal with and ask them to fax you a couple pages from the manual, then you have most of what you need...
I always find them quite helpfull.

Rod

BKahler · Jun 23, 2009

Rod,

That was a good idea! I did call the NH dealer and the service tech looked through their manual for the torque sequence and couldn't find one. He looked for quite a while and it would appear that there was no torque sequence called out. I mentioned the pattern I was going to use and he felt that should work. So it looks like I have all the info I need to go out and re-install the head on the tractor.

With luck it will be running in a few hours.

Thanks!

Brad

BKahler · Jun 24, 2009

Ok, got the head replaced last night and everything put back together. Unfortunately I was not able to get the tractor to start.

I cracked the lines to the injectors and the pump is not putting out any fuel. Prior to the gasket blowing the injector pump was working fine.

I decided to order another I&T FO-40 manual and it should be here by the end of the week. Hpefully I can then figure out what the problem is with getting the pump to work.

If it isn't one thing its another..........

Brad

RodinNS · Jun 24, 2009

Make sure you've got a full fuel tank, then bleed the filter. I forget if there's a bleeder at the pump or not... but open the lines and set the throttle to max, then crank in 30 second bursts until it bleeds out. You could also try rigging an air line to the filler cap on the tank with a few pounds of air or mabey even just a shop vac set to PUSH instead of pull. You don't want much pressure or it will bust the tank but you want enough to make a pressure differential and send fuel through the system.

Rod

BKahler · Jun 24, 2009

Rod,

I didn't notice a bleeder on the pump itself but then I really know anything about diesel injector pumps. I did remove the line from filter to the pump (at the pump) and their is fuel flowing at that point. The tank is about 2/3 full at this time. As mentioned previously I had pulled both lines fully off of the injectors and there is currently zero flow while cranking the engine.

I did try the throttle at max but only for a few tries and then placed it back to mid range. I'll go ahead and set it to full throttle.

I think I can rig up something to lightly pressurize the fuel tank.

Thanks for the suggestions, very much appreciated!

Brad

BKahler · Jun 25, 2009

Ok, got it running last night. Poking around on the internet I found a picture showing the injection pump on the 1700 with an arrow pointing to an air bleed screw. With the injectors still disconnected I opened the air bleed screw and cranked the engine over. After several tries I started getting fuel mixed with bubbles coming out. I kept cranking until the bubbles cleared. I then closed the bleed screw and a few cranks later fuel started coming out of the injector tubes. At that point I reconnected the injector lines and a few cranks later it fired off!

I let it run for about 15 minutes and the temperature stayed rock steady and it sounded good. I'm going to do a re-torque this weekend when I have some time and after that I'll pronounce it fit to resume mowing duties.

I'd like to say thank you to everyone who responded with help and suggestions.

Brad

1700 torque and valve lash spec's needed (ASAP!!)

BKahler

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Anonymous-0

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BKahler

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Anonymous-0

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Walterdavies

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Welding man

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BKahler

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RodinNS

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BKahler

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