Ford 4830 Alternator conversion, Rod or anyone, pics...

Ok, I went ahead and bought a Delco alt. and mounted it tonight. It's solid, but the pulley doesn't line up perfect with the others, it's off just about the width of the pulley. Will this hurt the belt or the bearings in the alternator itself? I made a rough bracket for the top mount and the bottom I just changed to one long bolt and put in a spacer.

And as far as the actual electrical hookups go, I talked it over with the guys at NAPA and I'm gonna try the swap to a Delco. None of the those guys or myself for that matter, were %100 on what wires went where on the delco. The delco has the battery connection(red wire, only one we were all certain about), and it has the two plugs right next to each other labeled r1 and f2. We assumed the bigger plug off of the back of the Lucas goes to the f2(field) plug while the smaller plug goes to the r1. Assuming the white wire is the instrument panel wire, they thought it should go to the battery connection while I think it should go to the r1 plug(if the r1 plug is the sense circuit). I'm hoping I'm making sense with all of this. Here's a couple of pics of the mount job.

alt2.jpg


alt3.jpg


Sorry for the double post, here and over on the ford board, just thought there might be some non Ford people that might have some input, Thanks.

Casey
 
The connections for the internal regulated DELCO are: The stud marked Battery is connected with a heavy wire to the battery. If you want an amp meter it should go in this line. Amp meters MUST be wired correctly to be of any uses. The 1/4 inch blade terminal to the right of the Battery terminal should come from a switch 12 volt source. The ignition switch is a good place if you have one. I wired one up one time on a diesel without a ignition switch using a HOBB's switch in an oil pressure line. If the engine is a battery ignition you will need a diode or 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in this line. The next and last 1/4 inch blade connector to the right is connected to an UNswitch 12 volt source. This is the sense line of the regulator. Many people connect this terminal to the battery post on the alternator and the GM factory did it like this toward the end of the production of this alternator BUT IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT VOLTAGE DROPS IN WIRING as I do, I like to connect this terminal as electrically close to the batteries positive terminal as possible. I normally connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid. 16 gauge wire is heavy enough wire the two blade terminal connections. The Battery terminal should have at least number 12 wire. 10 would be better. 8 would be even better. Since you are doing a retrofit, what ever heavy wire the tractor is equipped with should be OK.

Kent
 
Just to add, anyone doing a Delco alternator conversion, PLEASE go to the auto parts store and buy a Delco alternator pig tail plug (about $2).
Never cobble up your own alternator regulator connections using un insulated crimp on connectors. They run not more than 1/8 inch from the alternator case, just a little pulling on the wires can bend the connectors in contact with the alternator case.
The #2 alternator sense wire is unfused, hot at all times and shorting it to the alternator case will just about guarntee an electrical fire.
That plug is so much protection for so little cost and makes a much more professional looking conversion.
 

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