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OT... 2001 Silverado heater

B

Bob

Well-known Member
Neighbor wants me to look at his 2001 Silverado. The heater quit, all at once, 120 miles from home.

One heater hose is warm, the other is cold.

Coolant is CLEAN, NO stopleak.

I know up to '98 or so, they just used a "blend door", and there was NO water valve.

Anyone know if the next body style used a water valve in the heater circuit?

What else could happen that would cause the coolant to stop flowing that suddenly?
 
my manual doesnt show a water bypass valve, so i'm thinking possibly a plugged eater core. try removing both heater hoses from the engine, and backflush the heater core with a garden hose, carefull so you dont rupture the heater core. you can also try blowing some compressed air the the hose, go backward from the flow. if you can get air or water to flow thru it, the core is plugged.
 
I agree with you, that must be what's wrong... the thing is, how would it come on that quickly... the vehicle is well-maintained, no water leaks to let air in to crud up the antifreeze, or anything suspicious, and no work has been done affecting the engine or cooling system lately.

He has owned it almost since new.

IIRC, on these newer units, you have to about take the dash completely out from side to side, to get at the heater core. Anyone had to replace one of these?
 
Heater cores usually plug gradually, not all at once.

Could a heater hose have deteriorated internally and had a flap of rubber block the coolant?
 
I guess we'll just have to tear into it and check for stuff like that. He's bringing it over on Friday.

At first, I figured it had a stuck blend door or defective blend door servo, but, according to him, only one hose gets warm, while the other remains cold.

(I have a 2001 Yukon, and the blend door will occasionally stick in the "HOT" position, about driving you out of the vehicle.

The 'fix is to shut the ignition switch "off' for a minute or two, and then re-start. That usually "wakes up" the servo. I'm just to cheap/lazy to swap out the servo!)
 

don,t know if its the same or not, but I did a 2001 1-ton last year, it was not bad at all. core sits low in box, a/c evap not involved--pulled glove box only.no dash. core was kinda spooky-- tubes had flex-connection @ base.
 

PS--a non-contact therm.gun sure works good on something like this--in my earler days, remember some problems with restrictions @ return hose @ engine--good luck--paul
 
my post should have read if you cant get water or air thru its plugged. typing skills aint the greatest. i just had a tahoe in the shop couple weeks ago. no heat. lady said the dealer wanted 1200 dollars to repair it. told her i"d take a look at it, back flushed the core, some stuff came out, looked like maybe casting flash or hard bits of rust, about a tablespoon full. heater worked fine then. didnt charge her for it, she dropped of a huge batch of home made cookies!!!!!
 
My 2004 Silverado won't heat up after one of my coworkers rides in it. I have to wiggle the connecter at the heater box just above the transmission hump inside the cab then it works again. My wife's 2004 Taho quit getting hot last weekend and the coolant level in the radiator was about 3 inches low. Topped it off and no more problems.
 
My 2004 Silverado won't heat up after one of my coworkers rides in it. I have to wiggle the connecter at the heater box just above the transmission hump inside the cab then it works again. My wife's 2004 Taho quit getting hot last weekend and the coolant level in the radiator was about 3 inches low. Topped it off and no more problems.
 
I wuz gonna say switch hoses, sorta backflush, but I bet they are different sizes. Have heard of airlocks, never had on. If you do slide hose partly off and drill 1/8 hole till you see water and slide it back on. Gotta hear the solution to this one.
 
our 2002 chevy silverado has never ever screwed up liek this we always put the proper dexcool collant in it and everything i know these cooling systems on these trucks were stupid because they had the thermostat on the intake side of the engine enstead of the outlet both heater hoses get hot no matter what heater on or off the coolant circulates all the time GM has had this design for decade i have a 62' GMC grain truck with the blending door instead of the coolant shut off valve ive only seen these valves on older fords and dodges so either your core is plugged or the motor that turns the blending door is hatched or on some trucks there was 2 small filters right infront of the heater/A/C cores they might be plugged but if theyre plugged no air flow will be present
 
I don't remember a heater valve on'em but will look,,, have yer buddy make sure theirs plenty of coolant in it,,,, one thang that I have found lately is the tube tween the rad and coolant tank to b stopped up,,, so if the rad gits low it never gits a refill from the recovery tank,,, I spec you know the water pump gaskets are pron to leak on the 2000 and up,,, hard to see other than a leak from the front of the engine,,,, I don't spend much time look'n i go after the pump and gaskets if i have a leak from the front

check coolant level in the rad
 

A quick look from my info does not show a heater valve,,,, heat is controlled by a blend door,,,,, would not matter iffin the blend door is fudged up both heater hoses should b hot,,, low coolant comes to mind :idea:
 
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