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Railroad track - weight cutting it?

B

Brent in IA

Member
I recently acquired four 30 foot pieces of railroad track from a friend whose business was moving (they had a large press that rolled on the track). I have already hauled it home an know it is HEAVY..but does anyone know how much track weighs per foot? I would like to cut it but know my torch would never get through it, would a bandsaw do the trick? Any other ideas?
 
Brent, Not sure what it weighs But if your gonna scrap what you don't use make sure you get a recipt from your friend cause they'll probaly want to know where you got it if there's a railroad around you.
 
several different sizes of track but I believe train track weighs 65 lbs. per foot of length. Torch will cut thru it easily with the right torch & operator. A 2 ft. length of it makes a good portable anvil. Just remember to cut holes for nails (to be driven in a stump) while the torch is handy.
 
Track is manufactured in various sizes so its weight per foot depends upon its dimensions . Typical modern day rails can be found to weigh 115 to 140 lbs. per yard. ( That's how rail is classified- by the yard , weight of a three foot length ). For instance, 130 lb. rail is 43.33 lbs. per foot.
 
there are many different sizes of rail. I have about 20 feet of 80# rail.
Cutting torch cuts it just fine, just takes a while to do it.
I have also cut it with a bandsaw, cut half way, roll it over and cut the other half. (used a chain hoist to hold up the weight so it didn't crush the saw)

I used 18" pieces for anvils, sold a bunch for $20 each.
 
you better have a bill of sale in most cases it is illegal to have it. brother worked for the old Soo line and they got real testy if someone had rail or spikes
 
Can't be a lot of help, but I know there are different grades of rail depending on use of the particular line. Grades differed in hardness, composition and weight per foot.
 
weldon is right about weight and it is marked on the side or web of the rail.You can cut it using A chop saw and metel cutting blade.
 
Old timers used to cut the thin part with a torch, then wait for a real cold day, around 0 degrees, and set each end on a block, then hit with a sledge hammer.
 
John *----cub owner is right. I've done that, but didn't wait to break it, just did it right after cutting through the bottom side of the track. Whack it good with a 8 or 12# sledge.
 
I saw this post and I had to laugh. I knew my dad had a chunk of railroad rail he uses for an anvil so I just went out and measured it for you. It is exactly 1 foot long and it weighs 16 lbs. This rail is 2 inches across the top where the wheels ride and 4 inches across the bottom where it sits on the ties. Hope that helped.
 
What kind of torch do you have? Unless you have a really tiny torch, get a big tip (for 3 inch or more) and you'll be able to cut it. Probably have to do 3 cuts. One across the top, one across the bottom and then cut the middle from the bottom to the top. Preheating it before cutting will also be a big help. Dave
 
Hi Brent,

Weldon is right on the money with the weights.

I would keep the rail for heavy projects, shop press, gantry crane, yard drag, impliments, etc: as that rail is some tuff steel and makes great cheap project material.

I have several 120# rails here for just that reason. I have a really nice yard drag for leveling my roads after a rain and clearing light vegetation.

RR iron can easyly be cut 100% thru with a O/A torch with a clean #3 tip. I cut mine with a set of mini cylinders in the field from the guy who sold them too me so I could load them on a trailer.

T_Bone
 
the weight along with the date will be on the side of it and like some others said that is the weight per yard or 3 feet. I cut mine with a torch but if you have a large chop saw with the metal cutting discs that is easier and how they do it on the railroad. hope this helps.
 
You may be able to sell it to a railroad collector or museum they may need some to set up a display.
 
The way to cut is cut all the thin area. Except for the top of the rail. Wait for it to cool then drop it on concrete or hardpack driveway. That hardened steel on top will snap easy. Seen it done and was surprising.
 
When piping stop lights in the city of Paterson we often hit buried old trolley tracks.Cut right through them with a torch.
 
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