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Ford 1910 Head ? Repair? Problem

G

Gale Ekern

New User
We recently had a 1910 that heated up quickly and oil turned milky. Pull the head and it was definatly cracked. Replaced water pump, bought a new head,and rebuilt injectors, and purchased a complete gasket set. Put everything back together and ran fine. Then went to check anti freeze again and it was down to the coils, refilled and left overnight and leaked down further and the oil is grey and milky again. Boo! Have now put to cans of professionsl grade stop leak stuff in it. Guestion if it contiues, there were two head gaskets that came with the comlpete engine gasket set? We matched up number withthe orginal and went with that? I found out that one is 3 mils thicker? Some one said o rings on pistons? Replacements came with gasket set? Need help with ideas what to do next. Completely spent too much already? What to look for next or what to do next???
 
I've dropped the oil and pressurized the cooling system to check for liner porosity..It will drip coolant into a drainpan floor overnight..
 
There is no repairing of cracked or porous liners ...They are simply pushed out of the block from underneath..I use a solid wood rod and a bottle jack to push liners out of block..Stay back a little or you'll get a bath..Does the engine oil get nasty gray looking after a while ??If so that's a dead giveaway of coolant getting into the crankcase..It's an anomoly that happens in all diesel engines with wet liners or parent bore blocks..Parent bore blocks need to be bored and sleeved to repair them..Wet liner blocks are easy fixes..The liners are sealed into the block with o-rings at the bottom and head gasket at the top..The porosity problem has been around for years..It boils down to hard water..PH level is too low..After rebuild , I'd use a coolant conditioner as marketed by NAPA or others..It works...
 
Roy, You sound very knowledgeable and been there done it type of guy, To replace a sleeve or the sleeves do you have to crack the tractor or can the repair be done intact?. Would you do anything else replacement or otherwize if that is the case. Sleeve and seals? Piston rings? bearings?
 
It not that bad. Just depends on how long your supplyer can get parts. Had this back together in less then three hours. Hard's part was dropping 4 wheel drive and putting back together, to get oil pan out.
 
So the tractor did not have to be separated? Get the head off/drop the oil pan/ remove the pistons/ how did you remove the liners? and isn't the crankshaft in the way? I hope these are not too basic questions,spent too much already and need to stop someplace
 
Like Roy said have someone presureize system. I replaced one that was cracked. Pan off slide 2x4 in and hit with 3# hammer,
should pop out.
 
No just pull the head and oil pan to access pistons/liners..Unbolt the rods and tap them out the top ..Watch the liners don't slide out the same time, or you'll get a bath..I use short bolts with washers to hold the liners down till I'm ready to knock them out..And yes...I'd do a complete job..Bearings on rods..Pistons/liners...The mains you won't be able to do unless you take the crankshaft out of the block..
 
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