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Leveling a dirt drive way

W

wsmm

Member
What is better to use a box blade or a standard rear blade to level a drive. I"m using a Ford 2N for the procedure. Do not have a box blade at this time, and am also not that great a crating a level drive. I have lots of dips and some holes. I have Zanes position control, so I can go eiter in positiotn or draft mode. Any an all tips and help is greatly appreciated.

hanksBill
 
actuallu you will use both a box blade and a rear grader blade, the box blade has rippers on it so you can loosen the dirt and create some material that can be moved around, then you can reset the rippers and use the box part to pull material along with you it will knock the tops off the 'hills' and fill in the 'valleys' it takes some pratice but is easily mastered,the right hand lift arm of the n should be adjustable so you can level the box side to side, the grader blade is used to 'flow material from one side of the drive to the other also it is much better for snow removal in the winter
 
The straight blade is what you want to use to "rough it out", particularly if you are scrapping dirt "diagonally" from high side to low side. You'll use the box blade to fill in those dips and holes .
In the end, though, when it comes to the gravel- you will be hard pressed to do a better job with any blade than a skilled dump truck driver will do at spreading evenly and smoothly.
 
shoot, even dragging a large and heavy I-Beam levels driveways. I've used them to flatten tractor pull surfaces
 
I have had good luck pulling logs behind the ttractor. A couple years ago i bought 6 lanscape timbers, hooked them all together and put some rocks on top. It did a great job of leveling a dirt and gravel road. Nuff said Henry
 
Before I got my Allis W speed patrol I used an I beam and it did ok. Still have it out back. Any thing heavy and about 8-10 wide that you can pull and lays flat will work well if $$ are a problem
Hobby farm
 
If all you have is a grader blade.. you can do it pretty good. I've done it with grader or box blade.

soundguy
 
Do your rough grading with the blade facing forward and anngled moving the dirt back and forth across the drive. the reverse the blade and pull. it will do a good jod of leveling witout digging in.
 
i leveled a dirt drive along one of my fields and reseeded it this spring. tore it up with a disk, ran a back blade over it to get it pretty level, then used a big pallet, flipped over with some cinder blocks on it for weight. chained it to the tractor and drug it back and forth on the lane. the pallet will scrape up the high spots on the dirt and then when going over a low spot, the dirt will fall back thru the slots in the pallet, filling any low spots. worked pretty good.
 
Level? Not realy. If it rains at all in your country you want the driveway "crowned" or slightly higher in the center so the water will run off.
 
You're exactly right Howard. My brother bought one of those box scrapers a few years back and every so often drags our mile-and-a-half lane with it, trying to "level" the road. He throws a fit when I want to use our old Adams pull-type road grader. But- every time he uses that box scraper, he just digs the road a little deeper, so now there's 8 inch high "curbs" all along the outside of the road bed, and water has no place to go.

I keep trying to remind him that the professional road-building contractors probably know what they're doing, and there's a reason that the term is "build a road" and not "dig a road"....but it's like talking to a brick wall. These recent rains have proven my theory though.
 
I made this leveler from scrap iron. Kinda chunky but it does work.
leverler.JPG
 
try dragging a section of chain link fence with some weight in front (6X6 or 8X8) and lighter weight in rear (small metal pipe) this allows graval to be evenly distrubeted. works for me. d. coleman
 
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