9N wont start no spark

Huzig

New User
No spark I already changed condenser, new cap, new rotor , new coil. I ran it last week everything good Then yesterday started up ran for about minute shut off and wont start now.
 
A few common problems...

1.) Bad ignition switch.

2.) Bad coil.

3.) Coiled "spring thingy" below coil not making good contact with the special cupped brass screw beneath it... may have to be stretched a bit.

4.) Broken (may be CRACKED... take a good look) copper buss bar (connected to that special screw).

5.) A short in the distributor... with the top mounted coil removed, and the points open, Ohms from special brass screw to ground should read "infinite", with the points closed, near ZERO Ohms to ground.
 
Clean the points with some 320 wet or dry until shiny. Then see if you have fire. Make sure you have battery voltage to the coil & distributor if it has a distributor. Start at the ignition switch using a volt meter or test lite. You may have a broken wire that feeds voltage to your switch. If there's voltage at the switch and none coming out, its a bad switch. With the points closed and the switch on, you should have voltage on both small terminals on the coil. Hal
 
I am not sure but that model might have a resister that is located behind the panel that holds the gage. If so it might have failed on you.
 
Start with basics. Volts to coil?

Current to coil (contacts open and closed)?

Resistance of condenser to ground?

Distributor turning?

Spark at high tension from coil when coil current is interupted?

All parts fitted properly?

Changing parts 'ad hoc' is not the way to go. There are so many possibilities it is not worth guessing.

A reasoned diagnosis from battery to spark plug is required, and each stage must test out OK before the next stage can be checked.

Assuming you have the standard Ketteringham system, as fitted to millions of vehicles over the years, there will be a wealth of information on the net.

You should also have a wiring diagram for your machine and that may help.

A multimeter of some sort is preferable but these systems were checked out using a lamp probe, by most poeple 50 years ago or more.

They managed to service the systems with little or no high-tech aids and coped (mostly) quite easily.

Regards, RAB
 
It was the resistor , but I also went and put new points in just because I had bought them and figured it would not hurt. Thanks
 

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