7.3L Powerstroke and OBD II readers

Also, if you have any ideas regarding the problem I'm having now ....

My F-350 is stalling in mid stream: I'll be driving along and the engine just dies, makes no noise when doing so, and starts right up again once I come to a stop - happened yesterday 3 times in about 12 miles of driving.

Seems to be an engine control problem (checked for water in fuel filer and motor oil level), I am suspecting the camp posistion sensor.

Thanks
Tim

CPS first then TPS (fuel pedal). The new style CPS has gold colored contacts. The trouble ones had silver colored contacts.

2001 up don't see RPM's on the Tach upon cranking.

Any puter driven engine needs reset before diagnosing by disconnecting the battery(s). This clears all codes and resets the PCM to the OEM defaults. If there's truly a problem, new codes will be quickly set and the problem will continue. Reset the puter after the repairs.

I reset my 7.3 once every month. This gets me the best drivibility and keeps fuel mileage at maximum. My 27k mile life time fuel mileage is 15.5mpg with pulling 16kGCW to 31kGCW for 9k miles. Empty is 19mpg consistantly. It's just like windows, the puter will crash often. Ford must have used MS engineers... LMAO

7.3 OBDII codes can be read by a Ford OEM program, about #350 for the PC reader type. This the cheapest I know of for Ford code readers. The cheapies don't have the extra OEM OBDII codes. There's a couple online sources.

I assume you have changed the fuel filter and checked for water?

T_Bone

One thing to note about regularly disconnecting a battery, is the type of vehicle.

Most ford and chrysler trucks, doesn`t hurt anything, but I wouldn`t recommend it on the GM`s after about 96 or chrysler cars and vans.

Those vehicles run adaptive learn systems that can have really long relearn times depending on how they are driven, this would more than likely decrease performance til the computer had everything figured back out again.

The allison in the new chevys is a great example.
If you clear the adapts that thing will work like crap. It has taken me over 100 miles of drive in time to dial them back in again, and that`s running them thru a dedicated drive cycle. That could be 1000+ miles of normal driving before they get thru their relearn on their own. Duramax guys, don`t get me wrong, this is one big bad trans once it`s adapts are set, but it slips, flairs and bangs down til then. Caravans, intrepids, and the real late lighter dodge trucks are the same way, not quit so severe.

T_bone, Ive read enough of your posts to see that you know your stuff. I ain`t jumpin on ya, just thought it was info worth putting out there.
BW

BTW glad to here ford came down on their cam sensors, must`ve been right after I bought my last one. Go figure

I changed the fuel filter about 8k or 10k, miles ago, and I drained it this AM to make sure there was no water. There was not.

I plan to pick up a CPS in the morning and give that a try when I get home.

On our '01 F350, the engine shut down one day but I was able to restart and drive a half-mile or so then it died again. Had to get it towed to the dealer and it turned out to be a defective fuel stop solenoid.

Don't know since they towed it to the dealer the day before hurricane Ivan hit us. Didn't get the truck back for a week and was so happy to get it back I didn't ask any questions like I usually would do. As far as I know all diesels (even the old Perkins in our shrimp boat) has a electrically or electronically controlled means to shut off the fuel supply for shutdown purposes. You got me curious too--I'll try to locate it and report back. Maybe it's either right on the pump or part of the pump--never worked on this one yet like I have on our 6.5 Chevy.

Agree what you're describing is most likely the cam position sensor. They're known to be flakey, mine left me stranded a year ago. Stalled, would start back up, run for a few minutes, then stall again. At that time they were $150 plus, now even the ones at the Ford stealers are in the $25 range.

Its located on the passenger side of the engine near the front - you have to reach it from underneath. It's held in with a 10 mm bolt & a clamp. Takes about 10 minutes to change.

Keith

$28 at the local Ford dealer.

The original cam posistion sensor went when the truck was virtually brand new (less than 5k miles). The symptoms were different back then - the engine would sputter and loose power before it stalled.

I just bought code scanner (been wanting / needing one anyhow). I'm going to see what that tells me before replacing the CMP or any other parts.

FYI, if you don't know already - I have heard on this board and others that a new CMP is alot cheaper at the International dealer (we have one nearby here) than at the Ford dealer. I think something like $80 or $90 vs. $150 or better ??

The truck was fine driving to work, kriving home from work this evening it was acting up again and this time the "service enging soon" light DID come on.

Ya better get that sensor changed out 'cause one of these times you might get to ride back to town in the tow truck.

I carried an extra for 107K miles, but never did need it before I traded.

The local Ford shop says that they've had to replace a few of 'em however.

Allan