Tractor hp related to size of bushhog.

And a 45 h.p. case that drives a 6 foot mower, with the same results.

Example: I have a Rhino TW84. This is their heavy duty 7' lift-type rotary cutter. Servis-Rhino requires that you use a minimum class II tractor with a minimum of 60 pto hp.

Obviously Rhino's are much more heavy duty than Bush Hog's and require more power. Each manufacturer knows his product best.

Up here, only Bush Hog and Rhino are sold. People who can't afford a Rhino, or who only cut grass, usually buy a Bush Hog. For those of us who can afford a Rhino, and those of us who need to clear trees, we buy Rhino. They are much more stout, have far fewer problems, and essentially last forever if the maintenance schedule is followed.

Brush Hog or any other mnaufacturer will tell you the minimum class and hp required to operate the mower. It's on their website.

HP = torque x rpm's. Newer tractors run higher rpms so torque is obviously less. With the low rpm's comes the long stroke you mentioned and therein is the torque you mentioned to pull you out of the tough spots.

That's why I'll take old iron over the newbies any day.

Mark

I don't think it makes a tinker's damn what BRAND machine you have, just how wide it cuts and what you driving it with (duh!).

I have an ancient New Holland 5 ft. bushhog I run with a 1980 JD 1050...about 33 PTO HP. It will cut 3 foot high fescue in 5th gear if the grass is dry, drop down to 4th if it's wet. My tractor is what most folks call a 'toy' tractor, one them damned lightweight Jap models. He-he. Works fine for me but has its limitations...just like any other machine. No need to try to use an implement too damned big for your tractor. You wouldn' try to pull a 50' flatbed with your pickup would you?

Tried to put a blade scraper behind it one day to fill in a ditch, with the tractor to the side of the ditch, not straddle it...Just what you said....too light. Had to get out the old iron.

Mark