Running fuel out of a carb?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
This is what the carb off my Farmall cooked like when I opened it up a few days ago.

The carb had a steady leak.
cvphoto164658.jpg

I ordered a new gasket, won't get until Wednesday. In a short span of a few days, rust appeared in the bowl.
I sprayed it with WD40.

Because the rust showed up so quickly it makes me ask is it all that good to run a carb out of gas on YT Tractors?

I never did and I keep my gas tanks full, especially when they sit over the winter.
I use E10.
 
E-10 gasoline (and all gasoline) has additives and non combustibles. The most volatile ingredients evaporate constantly. this leaves the remaining stuff to coat the container whether a carb, the tank, or a fuel can. If moisture gets into E-10 fuel beyond the ability to suspend it, the combination of chemicals forms a nasty mucus like slime. if the moisture laden slime contacts iron or ? it will oxidize it. I believe in Terre Haute that temperature change and high humidity combine to make this worse. Shutting off the fuel, filling the tank brim full, and draining the carb from the bottom are the best preventive measures. Jim
 
In my opinion, if the tank is shut off at the shut off valve, the carb will evaporate itself dry over time. So if your shutting the shut off valve off while in storage, the carb is going to end up dry over time anyways.

So if your intentions are to keep the carb full of gas, then you probably better not be shutting the shut off valve off over long periods of time.

A little surface rust isn't going to cause problems. It's flaking off rust that will. This may plug up jets if gets bad enough.

I don't like to see rust inside of a carb. But I'm not going to lose any sleep over it either. Maybe clean it up good if I happen to have the carb apart and notice some rust taking place.

Take care of issue while apart, and dream about something else at night.
 
Long term storage you should cut the fuel off at the tank. The carb probably needs to be rebuilt. The float valve appears to be leaking.
 
I always put a walmart plastic bag under the tank fill cap.

Prevents humidity and oxygen from getting in and evaporation thru the vented cap while not in use.

This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 10/16/2023 at 06:44 am.
 
I've got 10 gas tractors I put up for the winter and the only time I've ever had an issue starting them in the spring was when I shut the gas of at the tank for the winter. I don't do it any more.
 
I have a Briggs & Stratton pressure washer. I dont use it that often. If I dont run it out of gas it wont start the next time. Took me a few times to learn that lesson. Works perfectly if I run it dry after using it.
 
I aways drain the tank and carburetor on the tractors I'm not going to use. You can't trust the needle valve to work and the gas in the tank to not go skanky. The residual in the tank I treat with Stabil. The feeling I have when I turn the key on my parade tractor and it starts right up in early March, priceless.
 
Always turn gas off and let it run out just started a crawler that's been sitting for at least 15 yrs and it ran good
 
I've pondered the same question and came to the conclusion one size doesn't fit all. Storing under cover and/or full vs partly full are game changers. Sun hitting tank during day then cooling down at night causes lots more air in and out of less than full tank (think condensation). Dry carb and fuel valve off or lite oil in carb for long storage. I believe continuously evaporating fuel due to leaky float gooks carb up more than other issues.
 
George, a leaky bowl gasket won't cause the carb to leak, assuming the tractor was parked reasonably level. You need to replace the needle and seat. It's also possible the float has a leak; shake it and see if you can hear gas sloshing around inside.

I've learned to always turn off the gas on my tractor. If the needle and seat are even slightly leaky, the whole tank of gas ends up on the ground when you have a gravity-feed fuel system.

I don't bother running the carb dry on my tractor, but usually do so on my small engines. The less gas to dry up, the less gum is left in the carb. The only engine I've run into that seemed to have a problem with that was on the Harley Sportster my wife owned. After it would sit for several months with the fuel turned off and the carburetor run dry, the float would stick open. I'd have to take the bowl off and jiggle the float, then it would be fine the rest of the season.

I don't think gasoline in the carburetor serves as a rust preventative. Rust means there was water in the carb.
 
I don't think gasoline in the carburetor serves as a rust preventative. Rust means there was water in the carb.

The carb was dripping gas when it was running.
I took the carb apart. Ordered a new gasket and I'm going to replace the shut fuel shutoff.

Carb is always full of fuel when on the tractor. On the workbench no fuel and on the third day carb bowl started rusting. Gas may not be a rust preventive however gas prevents the moisture in the air from getting to the carb. Also gas fumes may displace air too.

Once again, moisture in the air is my problem.

The air vent in my Jubilee's valve cover is next to my #4 exhaust valve, the exhaust valve that was stuck open.

When moisture gets under the distributor cap on my GMC, I have to get AAA to give it a ride home and replace the cab. It happens about every 2 years in February when we have high humidify and about 35 degree temp swing..
 
Pretty much name brand, Shell, Mobil,Exxon,
and a dozen or so more. It's their
additives to reduce carbon. Little guy on
the corner doesn't always have them other
than ethanol.
Top tier.
 
Good Morning George, having farmed and being a used truck/tractor dealer owning more machinery/engines than most others over many years, sure 50/60 years ago I heard and was told to always drain the carb prior to long term storage AND OFTEN PRACTICED THE SAME. That being said I ALSO have NOTTTTTTTTT drained carbs prior to long term storage BUT ADDED STA BIL AND/OR A BIT OF TWO CYCLE ENGINE OIL AND RAN THE ENGINES PRIOR TO STORAGE..........

ACTUALLY I can say based on a ton of experience I NEVER NOTICED ANY DIFFERENCE or had more or less carb problems EITHER WAY ???????????

Thats all Im saying no more no less, yall may have had similar or total different experiences To each THEIR own choices

John T
 
Each to their owm.
I don't use staybill and I don't drain carbs on anything except for my 2 generators.
3 days without gas and the carb began rusting is proof enough for me not to drain carbs.
No right or wrong, do what makes you happy.
 

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