Massey Harris Colt Issues

Looking for Massey Harris Colt advice... I have a 1953 colt and recently I found the oil blowing out of the air intake air cleaner bowl up the stack and out the air intake. Not sure what would cause this. Any advice would be appreciated. It doesn't happen when the engine was idling only when it was working ( like lifting bucket or driving tractor). I performed a compression check and all 4 cylinders were 120. It has new plugs, new battery this year I removed the air intake bowl for inspection and didn't see anything but tried the tractor with it removed and it acted the same way.

makes no sense to me , i dont see how it can be blowing oil out when the intake is a suction. is that an oil bath air cleaner? it would ahve
to backfire to blow the oil out. is the engine running smoothly. u say it has good compression. are you hearing any popping noises?

(reply to post at 19:47:26 06/17/23)

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It is an oil cleaning unit with the oil at the bottom in a clamped on container. I removed this cleaner unit and allowed the air to go into the hose and into the carb. I felt the air blowing back as well as sucking in through the carb while the oil cleaner was removed. Not sure what would cause this... At idle with oil cleaner on it runs without burping oil but when driving it burps

When the oil burps out it does make popping backfire noises

ya i figured that. like a camshaft lobe worn out.

Would my compression still be 120 all cylinders with a cam shaft love worn out?

that is called an oil bath air cleaner. the dirt solids are slammed into the oil and thats where they stay till you clean the cup. but do you
have the timing set correctly and the carb adjusted properly.???

I adjusted the carb to what it calls for in the book I cleaned it out as well and didn't see much sludge or anything blew out all the jets. I don't know how to check the timing though.

i am thinking its just opening enough to get a compression reading, but first things first. whats the story on this and what have you done
and not done on this tractor. would need to confirm the valve settings and your tune up and carb settings.

All I've done so far is cleaned the carb pulled the oil bath cleaner off to check the blow back

The carb calls for needle to be 2.5 turns from all the way seated and the idle screw 1.5 turns back from seated position. Which I've done.

Ok would I be able to see that by removing the plugs? Or do I need to pull the top cover off the engine?

Do you happen to know how I could check timing on this as well? So if the valves look good I can check that out too?

ok, get the number one cylinder on compression which you will feel with your finger. bring it to TDC. you need to find the timing mark which
is usually just TDC on them old engines. then once at TDC you loosen the distributor and put a piece of paper between the points. turn the
distributor a small bit the same way the rotor rotates, as per firing order. then you backup the distributor till you can just pull the paper
out , like very very slow in the rotation. once that paper is movable stop and tighten the distributor down. you are now statically timed.
but of course the points have to be set to spec first. and always last is the carb adjustment. plus of course the valves will need to be set.
plus when you have that side cover off you can see if the valves are all lifting the same amount. so confirm your timing and carb them
proceed on to check the valves by removing the side cover. simple stuff first. plus you said carb is set to what the book says,... always
nice to repeat that here many times them mistakes can be caught . many people dont know a main jet needle from the mixture needle. so post
your actual number of needle valve turns off the seat. that a standard procedure also. you need to know where your at. now you can go to it.

she's a flathead.

ok sounds good. on that idle mixture you adjust for the most rpm there is no set turns book is a starting point.

(reply to post at 21:02:17 06/17/23)

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What do you mean she's a flathead?

What do you mean she's a flathead??

Sticky intake valve or valve adjusted to tight allowing leakage back thru manifold or possibly pin hole starting between exhaust and intake manifolds or gasket allowing
same cross connection

Another thought: partly plugged exhaust creating back pressure, cylinder still has residual pressure when intake valve starts to open. to check remove muffler and use your hearing protection when running.