Metal Tractor Shed Roof Leaking

Hi,

The roof on my tractor/wood shed is leaking again. I put it up 20 years ago exactly. I went up last year or the year before and replaced some of the screws with longer ones and tightened up some others, and that seemed to fix those problems. But after a heavy downpour today, it is leaking again in the same spot, near the peak but not really by a seam between the panels - but its tough to tell for sure. Searching on line seems to indicate that the screws probably need to be replaced after this many years. I was thinking of user bigger and longer screws, replacing all of them, and maybe trying to seal them afterwards. I would appreciate any input others may have on this plan, types of screws to use, sealants, etc.

Thanks,
Tim

The screws may be getting loose from expansion and contraction. Im guessing you have the little rubber washers on the screws ? Over tightening them isnt good. If it was me I would check to make sure there arent any loose screws and the metal is secure. Then Id use a roof sealant like nnalert and cover the seams. Thick and pliable. It
Probably wont match the roof color, but it wont leak either if done right.

My wife often thinks I have this problem, a few screws loose!

If it is screwed in the bottoms of the corrugations or on the flats it never will seal and not leak. If it is corrugated I would remove the screws and flip the sheets over so the holes are on top then screw it back down with some 2 inch screws into 2 inch wood. That will solve that. I was talking to the owner one time and he said nobody around there which is Greenfield IN screwed steel on the top of the bump. And as we compared notes he found nobody up my way MI screwed steel on the flats always on the top of the rib or they leak. We concluded the snow as it melts and slushes on the roof holds enough water to seep in by the screws on the flats being the reason for being on the top of the rib. They also make a tape for the lap joints that goes ton the top of the first rib then the next sheet goes down ontop of the tape so it works like a gasket sort of so water doesn't run over the rib/bump at the lap joint. We also get 24 gauge steel for the material on our roofs there. The only place I know of that we can get it that heavy and will run at least 40 foot sheets in one piece. He said they could go longer if ordered.

X 2.
On the ribs only.

Be sure to not over tighten the new screws.

So whats the correct answer? As Luke Wilson points out in his follow-up video to address this question in particular, the correct answer is that screws should be fastened in accordance with the metal roofing manufacturers instructions, period. To fasten anywhere other than where the manufacturer recommends not only increases your risk of having problems down the line but it also nullifies the warranty for your metal roofing product. And the fact of the matter is that most U.S. metal roofing manufacturers say you should put screws into the flat, because this location offers a solid wood surface just beneath the metal panel, resulting in a safer, tighter, more secure seal.


This was off a metal roofing companies website. Do as you please, but I think insisting that the ribs is the only proper place to fasten is being a little short sighted. My 40x68 metal building was professionally installed and all screwed in the flats with zero leaks. If screwing in the ribs works for you, so be it, but it's not the only way to have a rain tight roof.

I've heard of too many situations where the water drips down an uncovered vertical exhaust despite the odds. Rain caps or cans should be used on all stored tractors.

A product called Through the Roof has been a problem solver for me. It comes in a few different forms but I use it from a caulking tube type tube with a caulking gun. It looks a lot like clear silicone but stays pliable. If you coated your screw hole before putting the screw back in I believe it would remedy your problem.

Leaking at peak sounds like ridge cap doesn't overlap sheets enough. I've solved that by installing short lengths of roof panel beneath ridge cap. This sounds like a dumb idea but it finds loose/missing screws,cracks and holes in metal roof. On a night with little or no moon and no wind. Either aim strong light at ceiling inside or have a helper shining a light on roof in sections inside while you walk roof looking for holes. To make holes show better,use
flower in a duster like used to apply insectacide dust to plants.
That's my own invention and even if you would rather crawl around roof during daylight hunting leaks I believe you will like the story behind my invention. My older brother hated rats and mice so bad he would swerve in attempts to run over them along the road. When my brother passed and my nephew inherited his farm,my nephew told me the barn was full of holes from his dad shooting rats and mice. He kept a little 22 rifle in his shop for coyotes,possums and such but if he saw a rat and had too much to drink he would get mad,go get it without taking time to reload with birdshot. I devised it to help my nephew repair the roof.

X2 on the through the roof product. Great stuff

I agree with knightstead - the metal manufacturer wants your new roof to be leak-free as much as you do, and they'll recommend the best proven installation method. However, the original poster was referring to an existing roof with recurring leaks. The location of the fasteners has already been chosen. Around this old place I have the most trouble where the metal is attached to 1 X material. There's not enough meat for the fasteners. Nails/screws loosen up and there's no good easy remedy. I swear, gravity is my only friend and wind is my enemy.

Well, the company that made our roof says to put them in the ridge.
The installer agreed.
And I told them that I wanted them in the ridge.

I have a barn that I built in 1977 using old rusty 5V metal.
It was the good old thick stuff and still looks new on the back side.
There were many holes in the ridge that you can see from underneath.
When it rains, I never see water leaking through those holes.

If you have already had the screws work their way free twice I would really start to worry about the rot that has to taking place with your nailers. Most likely 2X4s that are now rotted down the center. You may only have to replace a few in one section but that would be my starting point. May have been the issue the first time.

After that adding a sealant like the one mentioned below would be the next step - especially if its only in one section of the roof.

Tim in New York,

Settle this for us: Where are the screws on your roof?

Richard, when I put the metal on our house 30 years ago, I was nervous about putting the screws in the flats. I put them on the ridges, which was contrary to the manufacturer's recommendations. We have no leaks and no maintenance issues. The house roof is steep. I have since done several more metal roofs with the screws in the flats. No leaks on them either and they are generally 5:12 pitch, with one being 3:12.

Ok - first let me say that I had no leakage for the first 15 years with this roof. It was put on in 2004. The part that is leaking is a lower pitch than the front part of the roof that does not appear to be leaking. And this last part won't please anyone - I installed screws into the flats plus into the ridges where the panels lapped. So I did both.

I am leaning toward replacing the 10x 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 screws with 14 x 2 or 2 1/2, and then trying to seal the new screws. My purlins look OK as far as I can tell - the are rough cut 1 1/2 by 6. I may also try to foam the ridge cap, as it looks like there may be a problem with one of the sealers up there - I see some light in one spot.

Tim

I would buy a sealing product and a 1 inch paint brush and dab every screw and the next owner will have to do it again.