Best way to change oil

Tgrasher

Well-known Member
I've always warmed the oil in a motor before I did an oil change but I've put all but two of my babies away for the winter and don't want to start them. Two of the winterized need their oil changed. What harm would there be in just letting the cold oil just drip out for a couple of days and then replacing with new oil.
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None at all. Assuming you are changing the oil as often as they need it, and from your concern I believe that! And further that you have been using modern oil, not non-detergent, you will do just fine in your drain procedure. Put a piece of masking tape on the steering wheel as a tag that indicates NO OIL so you or someone else wont accidently operate them while empty. Jim
 
I've also wondered, what if you run your engine up to operating temperature but then dump in oil that's ice cold? Should the oil at least be room temperature?
 
The only problem I could see, if the oil pump is located above the oil level, letting it sit drained could cause the pump to lose its prime.

Just be sure (as always) it picks up pressure next time it is started.
 
By the time a person drains the oil and removes the filter, the engine will not be very warmed up. There is no cold oil circulating while pouring it in, and replacing the filter. There will be no damage. Few people change oil when the oil and tractor are freezing. Even multi wt. oil gets thick! Jim
 
What harm would there be in just waiting till spring to change the oil? That is, if you personally think it's going to make any difference at all. And you apparently must, or you wouldn't be asking the question. Its not going to make one dang bit of difference if there is old oil versus new, sitting in the pan and filter over the winter, is it?

For what it's worth, and in my opinion, it's probably better to drain the oil when it's warm. The sooner after an engine stop, the better. If you don't burn your hand in the oil when you take the plug out, you didn't take it out fast enough. But note that I said that (it's better to), and didn't say that it is (a necessity). Is what's actually more important, is that you do change it, and on some sort of appropriate time interval. Which, in your case wouldn't make much difference, unless every single time you change it, is when it's in winter storage on a cold engine. Then that adds up to, the oil never gets drained when it's warm. Always when it's cold. And if there is any benefit at all to draining warm oil, your tractor never sees that benefit. Its one of those (a one time thing is not all that big of deal), But if it's (all the time), that is a different story.

I don't know about you, but when I complete an oil change, I start the engine. Let it run for a bit. Check for leaks (oil plug and filter). By letting it run for a bit, the oil filter gets filled up. Shut the engine off. Let it sit for a few minutes. And re-check the oil level. Make sure that it is still at appropriate level. Insure that you didn't make a mistake on number of quarts to put in. Or mis-judged how much oil the filter holds when it filled up. This would be one more thing that you wouldn't be able to do, if changing oil while in winter storage, on a tractor that you can't start up. I think I'd be more concerned about not remembering to do this last part come spring, than draining the oil when cold.
 
Cub Farmalls have pumps at the level of the cam shaft, well above the pan level. They do loose prime and fail to prime unless filled from the gallery prior to starting. This can happen in as little as a month, or as much as a year. (depends on the clearance in the oil pump) Jim
 
I have always changed oil in the spring to eliminate any condensation that occurs in the cold weather??
 
best to change in the spring. i have heard that you want the new oil in the brgs. the acid in old is what attacks the brgs. for what ever it is worth. i know there is all kind of old engines sitting around with old oil in them. always is best to change oil when an engine is to sit. probably get another fight going on now, with yes, no, and why's.
 
When diesel fuel used to have more sulfur in it it was more important to change oil in the fall, to get the sulfuric acid out. Now, with low sulfur diesel it's not so important.
 
Another thing I do is tape the drain plug and the key together and set them on the bench. I do this before I even set the drain plug down. As we get older it is more important to take safe guards.
 
Yes, just drain it and let it drip for day or two. You'll get close to 100% of it out. A perfect oil change. Make sure and replace the filter.
 
Tgrasher,

Change the oil in the spring. Condensation may contaminate the oil, so the oil will have to be changed again at zero miles,

Guido.
 
Does it really make a difference ????
Cold oil may drain slower leaving some oil behind in your rush to do the job but a just run warm motor will have oil all through the motor that has not drained down to the pan.
And even if there is a difference in the amount of oil that drains out the motor we are not talking quarts.
A few CC's is more like the difference.
And does a few CC's difference really make a difference in the quality of the oil change.
 
I change my oil in the spring because my tractors are stored in an unheated pole barn. Warming and cooling cycles inside the pole barn cause condensation inside the engine, which ends up at the bottom of the crankcase.

In the spring, I run the engine and warm up the oil before changing it. I think running the engine may stir up any sentiment in the bottom of the crankcase.

Put your used oil in a plastic bottle. In a few months any crap in the oil will settle to the bottom of the bottle.
So running the engine stirs up any sediment inside the engine. Just my 2 cents. Of course no one is paying 2 cents. Guess that makes our posts worth less than 2 cents.
 
I just got a newsletter from Steiner ,tips for winterizing , they recommended change oil before storage, that way acid that develops from used oil doesnt break down internal components.
 

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