Jonathan Lipscomb
New User
Working on my John Deere MI need wiring diagram for 12 volt one wire self exciting alternator, appreciate all help thank you.
- Thread starter Jonathan Lipscomb
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
If the generator and charging components are removed, the one wire is connected to the terminal at the starter that attaches the large cable from the battery. This wire should be
a #10 stranded wire with terminals soldered on then shrink tubing used to keep water out. I believe in using a heavy fuse in series with this wire (autoparts stores have the
sockets and fuses) use a fuse rated at 5 to 10 amps more than the alternator rated output. This reduces the chance for alternator damage if someone connects things wrong. The
system bust be setup as negative ground. the amp meter will now only read discharge because the charging is not flowing through the meter. The meter needs to have its terminals
swapped so it shows correctly. Another way to do this is to run the single #10 wire to the load side of the amp meter, not the battery side Again put a fuse as described in the
alternator wire. Jim
a #10 stranded wire with terminals soldered on then shrink tubing used to keep water out. I believe in using a heavy fuse in series with this wire (autoparts stores have the
sockets and fuses) use a fuse rated at 5 to 10 amps more than the alternator rated output. This reduces the chance for alternator damage if someone connects things wrong. The
system bust be setup as negative ground. the amp meter will now only read discharge because the charging is not flowing through the meter. The meter needs to have its terminals
swapped so it shows correctly. Another way to do this is to run the single #10 wire to the load side of the amp meter, not the battery side Again put a fuse as described in the
alternator wire. Jim
I basically agree with Jim, here's my take: You remove any old wiring from the Generator to the Voltage
Regulator (or cutout relay if so instead equipped) and any from the Generators FLD post up to the Light
Switch (used on tractors that didn't use a Voltage Regulator but a Cutout Relay).
Basically the old wire that ran from the BAT terminal on a Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay IS NOW WHAT
ATTACHES TO THE ALTERNATORS BIG OUTPUT STUD........However I usually replaced that with a new 10 Gauge
wire that runs from the Alternator up to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter IE to the same
ammeter post where the old wire up from BAT on VR or CR was attached..
You switch to NEG ground meaning after re connecting the battery at NEG ground the ammeter leads need
swapped side to side and the coil wires also need swapped side to side.
Got it ??
John T
Regulator (or cutout relay if so instead equipped) and any from the Generators FLD post up to the Light
Switch (used on tractors that didn't use a Voltage Regulator but a Cutout Relay).
Basically the old wire that ran from the BAT terminal on a Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay IS NOW WHAT
ATTACHES TO THE ALTERNATORS BIG OUTPUT STUD........However I usually replaced that with a new 10 Gauge
wire that runs from the Alternator up to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter IE to the same
ammeter post where the old wire up from BAT on VR or CR was attached..
You switch to NEG ground meaning after re connecting the battery at NEG ground the ammeter leads need
swapped side to side and the coil wires also need swapped side to side.
Got it ??
John T
WeirdDeere
Member
I'd love to hear more about your MI, I'm trying to track down as many as I can
Brandon
Brandon
Jonathan Lipscomb
New User
Hi Brandon, my farther bought the tractor in 1967 it come from a high school New Castle Henry County Indiana. We have kept it in the family since that time it still runs good and sounds better than new. I am 76 years old and I have put a lot of miles on it. Serial number MI 0541
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