New to the Family

Howdy everyone! Been perusing here for sometime just learning and gleaning information. As with any forum, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge here and the help everyone is willing to give.

My wife and I have a small family farm and we just purchased a 1976 Ford 3000 tractor. It's gas, 8 speed, independent PTO, with turf tires and about 5000 hours. I was told it came from a golf course and they used it to cut grass and collect golf balls. It seems like it's in pretty good shape for the age and hours. I gave $3000 for it so I think I did ok on the purchase. Once I have enough posts here I will throw out a picture or two. I also found someone selling the front half of a Ford 3000 with a locked up engine for $260 so I got it for some spare parts.

Anyway, I have a couple projects on my tractor and then a question or two.
1) The light switch is gone and the wiring is a mess so I need to rewire the light circuit. I got a used light with the spare parts deal so I'll clean up and rebuild the switch.
2) My tractor has the original cartridge oil filter but the engine I bought has an original Ford spin on adapter so I'll do an oil change and swap that out. I had to search and search, but if it helps anyone, you have to use a 1 5/8 socket to take the threaded fitting out. Also, you can use a CAT part number 6V-9633 seal in place of the adapter seal, it's a tight fit, but it works. There is also a groove just below the threads on the fitting, does an oring go there to seal oil from seeping around the fitting? I'm probably going to put one there to be safe.
3) The muffler was rigged so I'll tinker with that as time goes along.
4) I think the clutch needs an adjustment. I'm going to purchase a manual on it so I know better what I'm doing.
5) The spare engine is locked up because of oil starvation (hole in the oil pan) and tons of rust inside so I've torn it all the way down and I have oil and brake fluid sitting on top of the pistons. Hopefully, I can get them freed up, I'd love to think I could rebuild it someday.
6) The carburator leaks so I'll rebuild the spare I now have and get it ready to swap on soon.
7) Apart of the spare tractor deal I picked up, I got what looks to be an original Ford 2 function valve. I believe the part number on the valve is 3-1226, but I can't find any info on it anywhere. Again, pictures to come. It was in need of a rebuild as well so I have it completely torn down, but I need to find seals for it and I can't tell if the inner shuttle valve bushing needs to come out. It has seals on either side so I would think it would have to come out. That's not a great description but it's the best I've got for now. I plan on adding a hydraulic top link and having the option for another remote function would be cool.

Thank you all for reading my long post, any advice or help is welcome. I hope this old Ford is in the family for a long time.

-Landen
 
Sounds like you have some ambition that I envy a little bit. Good luck on the project. There's a lot of good info on this forum and if you go to the Ford forum, might be some other folks that can help.
 
Sounds like you got a good deal on your tractor, Landen. Through the years I've owned a 4000, a 4400, and a 4500. Those 3-cyl. Fords are hard to beat. I'll bet yours will last a long time. The YT website and Messick's website are good places to search for parts. Welcome to the forum.

Butch
 
Welcome. First do you have the serial number? A few things don't sound right. Serial numbers located on a flat spot just behind the starter. Probably has paint over it or dirt and grease so you'll have to clean the area good. If you go to tractordata.com and pull up the tractor it will show you a picture where that serial number is. I think 1975 was the last year for the 3000. If it has an 8 SPD I didn't think it can have independent pto. It should be a live pto. If you can get the serial number and the model number and post it that will help us know exactly what you have.
 
Look there for serial number
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Thanks y'all! Glad I made a good purchase. You know there's always that thing in the back of your mind saying, Are you sure that was a good idea? Haha.

My mistake, typo, it's a 1967, and and yes, live PTO, two stage clutch, not independent, sorry.

Oh, and these engines have sleeves right? It looks like it does, but it's hard to tell. If I can't get the pistons out, I may have to figure out how to drive the sleeve and piston out together.
 
Ok that makes since now. I have two Ford 3000 gas tractors. 1970 and a 1972. They are great old tractors. You might want to post in the YT Ford forum. Lot of knowledgeable guys look at that forum.
 
You mention about 5,000 hours on a tractor that was used on a golf course. The 3000 tractors of that era were notorious for failures of the hour meter. It's rather hard to believe that a golf course would use a tractor less than 100 hours per year. Good luck with your new tractor, but be prepared to find much more wear than a person would suspect on a 5,000 hour machine.
 
Landen welcome to YT. That engine has no sleeves, in fact that is sort of a down fall of Ford across the board the fact that many of the engine they built do not have replaceable sleeves. A 401 cubic inch 6cyl diesel is a common engine in higher HP Ford tractor. They are very prone to electrolysis that eats tiny holes from the coolant side into to cylinder through the case parent bore. Your gas engine will not have that issue. Anyway here is a link to the manufacturers online parts diagrams for your tractor. In the linked page go to Engine then the 1st subsection A6A01 you will not see replacement sleeves shown. Also go to 06D01, it shows the piston and rod assemblies, again no sleeves. It looks like you have enough post now for pictures a photo of your hydraulic valve would probably be helpful to those in the know. By the way about your mix of oil and brake fluid in the cylinders only the brake fluid is contacting the piston because it is heavier than oil and will go to the bottom. As a inside forum comment, I am hopefully safe to post a link here, I do not think the Tractor Vet looks at Ford post.
CNHI Ford 3000 online parts diagrams
 
Use that spin on oil filter adapter. Then you can go to any auto parts store, even WalMart and geta filter, Uses same filter as cars. Don't even know if the cartrige would still be avaible. Had a 65 4000, 68 4000 and a 68 5000 and what did not have the adapter was changed over. Way easier to do oil change and would be way cheaper.
 
Dont adjust the clutch till you read up on the live pto and the two holes in the clutch arm, coming out of the transmission. One hole gives you a nice low pedal but does not turn off the pto. The other position makes a high pedal, but gives you a two stage clutch.. halfway to shift and stop, all the way to also cut off the pto... bad part is.. the pedal is higher and a bit uncomfortable for us old timers.
 
Thanks for all the replies and advice. Thank you for clarifying the cylinder sleeves for me red MN, good info. I know the 40s and 50s Ford's had sleeves so I was hoping this one did too. Oh well, I'll have it bored out....if I can get the pistons out.

Ok, so I rebuilt the light switch, got the oil filter adapter installed, new used wheels and tires on the front, did a good grease and oil on it, and I'm going to clean it up some too before I put it to work. Looks like the valve cover gasket has been leaking for a while, the top end is caked!

I posted over on the Ford side and didn't get any hits so I'll stay here this time and move over there in the future. As far as the valve, I got some good pictures of it so I'll post them here and if you have any info on it, that would be great! I work at a CAT dealer so I can match up seals, fittings, and hoses at work, but I'm not sure about this inner shuttle valve bushing. It looks to me like I need to drive it out to replace the seal on either end but I can't tell. A parts diagram would be great, but I know that's a long shot. Thanks again y'all!
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