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Mounting 11.2 - 28 Tires

J

Jason1Pa

Member
I've changed a lot of tires in my life,but for some reason the 11.2 - 28 ones kick my butt every time. Was putting on new rims and tires for a 8N Ford of mine. I had to walk away after a couple hours of wrestling.
Let me point out a few things. I've done them on the tractor and the floor before. Makes no difference in my experience.
In the picture the tire looks dry. It is but the picture was taken way after I gave up and soap was dried up by then.
There is literally 5 inches of stretch that needs to take place. I'm using regular tire tools and just can't get under the tire to take little bites. As always I'm chewing up the tire and about ready to bend the rim.
I guess I'm not looking for advice so much as I am just looking to vent. LOL. All though I will never turn down advice. Like I said this ain't my first rodeo with changing tires. For the heck of it I was watching some Youtube videos and it never fails I never see anyone have that much of a stretch at that last couple feet or so to get one.

cvphoto83475.jpg


cvphoto83476.jpg
 
Your problem is a simple one. The area of the tire already on the rim need to be down in the drop area of the rim or you will never get it on. Some times it take having help or standing on the area of the tire already on. BTDT so many times I cannot even count but I have done tires for a living 36 plus years ago
 
Old,
I don't disagree at all with you. I'm a little over 200 lbs. Standing on them is doing nothing. They are so rigid. Had my dad stand on them as I was working on them.
 
I agree with old,though its hard to tell from your photo. it appears that your tire is not in the drop center of the rim. it will never go on that way.
 
We at times use a weed burner the ones you hook up to a 20 pound lp tank to heat up the bead on the loader tires to make them soft an stretch. Lot of times the tires were in storage and cold because of it being winter out and they wanted the loader right away. Iv use it at home changing 14.9 38s and 18 38 and it work good on them.
 
I even thought about putting them out in the sun on a hot day but still that stretch is a long way. As others have pointed out my main issue is keeping both side walls in toward the center of the rim. I'm having a rough time of that.
 
get yourself some murphy's soap, same stuff tire shops use. that dish soap is a joke as i have tryed it too. make sure u have someone stepping on the opposite side down in the centre, and down off the bead close to where you are working on it, i can see u have it still on the bead. looks like you are screwing that bead up. buy thats all i got to say as u say you have experience on them. in this case you want things slippery . soap dont cut it.
 
Some times you need to use a tire hammer to beat then down into the drop area of the rim. Not easy but it is a has to or they do not go on. BTDT too many times and I am only 150lbs man
 
I have to agree with Old. Tire mounting can be a struggle, even for pros, sometimes. You have to get as much of the tire bead already on the rim down into the drop center. Your new tire is very stiff which makes it even more difficult to mount.
 
Old is very correct. if that stiff, use a jack under a tractor drawbar to shove that bead down off the rim seat area into the dropped area. A back hoe or loader with down pressure, or a Fast hitch on a Farmall with the pin in under the cylinder for down pressure, is even better. Jim
 
I was thinking about using using something to push it down. As I ponder my issue I realized why I have issues with this particular tire size. It dawned on me it's not the tire size it's the style of the rim. There really isn't much of a drop area off the bead. When you look at a Farmall rim it's more shaped like a V allowing the tire to drop down in better.
 
I don't have that much trouble with any size of the tractor tires front or rear. You do have to get that bead down in the drop to get it on though. I just stand on the far side as I pry them on. Sometimes I have to use a sledge hammer to drive it down as I go to keep it there. I have to pretty much do all our tires alone. It is much easier to do them with the rim wheel on the tractor as it will help with the weight. I start them on the bottom and let the tractor down some so the tire will stay in the drop and help to push it up around the rim for me. I also break them down from the top so the hanging weight will pull them down into the drop when prying off.
 


You say "regular tire tools" does that include the three foot long iron with the three inch cross piece welded onto the main bar four inches back from the tip?
 
I use little blocks of wood on the opposite side of the tire when I'm prying on the bead to hold tire down to the center of the rim. That may help in your case.
 
Even 1/2 drop gives about 4 inches of stretch in the mounting pry over zone as shown. the actual difference in circumference is about 6 inches. Jim
 
I can make a four wheeler tire go on whether it wants to or not Ive heard people say bigger tires are easier but I dont think so
 
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