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S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
This is like the distributor I have the top weights move freely
when I look through the window on the side I can’t see
anything moving when I give the truck throttle
cvphoto64648.jpg
 
Know I don’t have a light yet. Put new plugs in and the old ones were all fouled pretty bad just got back from a test drive and that probably helped more than anything.
 
Checked the dwell also and it was at 30.2 so i don’t think I’ll even mess with it . Spec is 29 to 31
cvphoto64657.jpg
 
If it isn't bogging down when you mash the gas it's moving. Try it and then pull the vacuum hose off, put your finger over the end and try it again. You'll see the difference.
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:48 11/26/20) Ok . It runs pretty dang good now . Finally had a day slow enough I could actually look at it
Click to expand...

You might see the breaker plate move, through the window, when the vacuum advance works as it moves the breaker plate, but I don't expect you will see any movement when the centrifugal advance works as that movement is centered on the weight plate which is around the shaft, under the rotor. As David G posted watching the timing marks with a light is the way to check that mechanical advance action.
 

I did a stock check through my account at the local parts store I use, and their "smart Page" shows R45T supercedes to R44T. The R45TSX will take a wider gap and has an extended tip. It is used in a number of GM engines with HEI. R46T would be 2 steps hotter if you want to see if your local store has those. I think the R45TSX should work ok in yours.

mvphoto65542.jpg
 
R45T is the next hotter plug, you don't want a extended tip plug. However if they are black you have a different problem. Carb running rich/jets? You should check your timing also.
 
Sv, raise the window and put the carb end of the vacum advance hose in your mouth. You might need to use a longer hose, suck on the hose and put your tounge over the end. Does it hold vacum? If not the vacum advance diaphragm is punctured,cracked, busted, bad. If it holds vacum you will see the breaker plate move clockwise when you remove your tongue. Make sure you are getting vacum from the carb. That truck probably uses ported vacum for the advance.(only has vacum when throttle is partly open). Many fords used manifold vacum for the advance(vacum at idle and open throttle). Either way is ok. The vacum advance will only help mileage. Will not give more power. Sounds like centrifugal advance is working. The vacum advance is easy to replace, two screws into breaker plate. Ps don't go to hot on the plugs,some times causes a no load miss.
 
Correction, Too screws into housing under breaker plate. Might have to turn plate some to get to one of them. It's been a long time since I worked on those.
 
As said below using timing light is best way to check both advances. Unplug vacum hose and plug, set base timing at idle, open throttle slowly while you watch marks,should advance. That's the centrifugal (mechanical) advance. While throttle is still open connect vacum advance hose still watching marks with the light. You should see the marks advance even further (vacum advance). I think those stx plugs are for .060 gap, to much for point type. You need .035 gap.
 
to check the weights you need to advance the rotor opposite of rotation and it should spring back to normal position. i always slightly oil the weight pins and the contact surface. to set the timing u need the vacuum hose disconnected and set timing to 8 degrees. once you plug the hose back in the timing will advance as you will see with the timing light. if it does nothing then the vacuum advance diaphram is shot. plus feel the hose for vacuum when you unplug it. its a timing light check not looking trough the window.
 
It looks like R44T is your choice, or cross to a different brand, if you want hotter. Checking R45T on the ACDelco website it comes up as not a valid number, which matches what your local parts store guy said and my store's stock check subbed back to R44T.
 
Burns a fair amount of oil . It probably really needs an
overhaul but the truck might see 300 miles a year if that . It
starts up really well even when it’s cold so for now I’m not
going to rebuild it .
 
Iv run r44t in my 1973 gmc 350, with points, my 1977 400 with hei, and i think thats what is in my 1989 350 with hei, i think youll be fine with those plugs. My 73 would start on a quarter turn of the starter, i just touch the key, turn it and it would start that fast.. i miss that truck!
 
Thanks everyone for all the replies. The truck uses a fair amount of oil that’s what is Fouling the plugs. The truck will not 400 miles a year probably less the half that so for now I can’t see rebuilding the engine at the present time
 
(quoted from post at 18:27:48 11/26/20) It looks like R44T is your choice, or cross to a different brand, if you want hotter. Checking R45T on the ACDelco website it comes up as not a valid number, which matches what your local parts store guy said and my store's stock check subbed back to R44T.
Click to expand...


There are MANY "N.O.S." R45T's on ebay, new in the box.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking. Those diaphragms get stiff and crack over the years and what you described is about the only way to check them.
 
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