Reliable gas shut off for a Ford 860?

The last two gas shut offs on my 860 do not shut off - they have one job!!
When I close them, they drip gas. Looks like the leak is in the shut off, and is not the O ring sealing the shut off to the tank. I've had trouble with points and condensers that are from China and defective, and use Blue Streak points etc now which are made in the US. What reliable shut off can you recommend that actually shuts off?
 
It has no sediment bowl. It just has a screw with an O ring or something inside, and I can't see how to get at the O ring.
 
Unfortnately, there are none.

I've had best luck with the expensive valves from CNH but have had a bad CNH valve also.

The last (lever style) valve that I bought from CNH was labeled Tillotson and it is still working properly after 10+ years but I believe that all are now made in China.

Dean
 
I just ordered my third one yesterday. The first one started leaking about two years
after I put it on. The second I put on about a month ago and it started leaking
almost right away. This is on my 641 ford. You have to take the tank off to
replace it.I hope this next one lasts longer.
 
It is nice to have a sediment bowl and screen, they play well with a gravity system.

But you could add a nice brass ball valve somewhere down stream.
 
Here is what I did on my 860 after re-routing the fuel line.

It is a brass 1/4 turn ball valve in-line.


cvphoto46880.jpg
 
If the valve allows you to turn the gas on and off but is leaking the advise the other guys gave you to install a shut off inline will do you no good. The only way to stop the valve from leaking is to replace it or fix it.


Take a knife or better yet a pair of diagonal cutters and pull the pin out of the bottom of the valve housing.
This will allow the screw to come out.
Replace the o-ring and put the screw back in.
Put a short machine screw where the pin was to prevent the screw from coming out.
Some suggest to tap threads into the housing to install the machine screw.
When I did mine I found the housing is soft enough the machine screw will cut its own threads.
 
Actually, the fuel valves on mid 50s/early 60s vintage Ford tractors can be changed without removing the fuel tank. I have done it so many times that I spend more time R & R'ing the gasoline than I do changing the valve. Usually takes less than an hour total (including R & R'ing the gasoline) if the tank is low.

It helps if you have the right tools and if your hands are not too large.

Note: Comments above apply to OEM fuel system including fuel line. All bets are off if such has been modified.

Dean
 
davidl1632, here is a pic somebody posted a few years ago on re-route the fuel line. I plumbed into the shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank and did not use it. Routed the fuel line around as in the pic and added the brass ball valve w/compression fittings. IIRC, I used 5/16" brake line for the fuel line.

HTH
cvphoto46907.jpg
 

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