Hello guys just curious if anyone has ran across this before. Obviously I know there are a few different causes of a cooling gauge not working but this one is a little different. It seems to work and very up and down with engine warm verse cold like it should but for some reason just seems to read lower than it used to with no real cooling system changes. Tractor is on a silage bagger so we watch coolant temperature very close and usually will run within the green range portion of the gauge. For some reason this year even on the hottest days it will run anywhere from the lower line on the gauge up to the start of the green but never within the green range like it used to. Really just want to make sure that we aren't getting a false reading so that we don't overheat it. What a stuck open thermostat give enough cooling to do this? Or have you seen gauge fails like this where it has an offset but hasn't completely failed?
- Thread starter nhoefler
- Start date
Temp gun was my next thought I guess that's where I'm not sure what I'm looking for. For example what gauge positions correspond to what temp in Fahrenheit? Really just trying to find info to fact check the gauge to see if there really is a problem but not finding much for a reference.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
From what you are describing, I would suspect the thermostat is failing to fully close.
That's a common problem, most thermostats that do fail fail just as you are describing.
If you can comfortably hold your hand on the upper radiator tank, it's running too cold.
That's a common problem, most thermostats that do fail fail just as you are describing.
If you can comfortably hold your hand on the upper radiator tank, it's running too cold.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Early or late 1086? My 1086 is early, bought in Jan of 78 new and now has 17,000 hours so I have had a little time to learn its flukes and idiosyncrasies. The electric gauges leave something to be desired. It must have something to do with the circuit board the gauges plug into. I would throw a manual gauge in it just to eliminate a gauge problem. You dont have to put it in the cab, in front of one of the lower cab windows works for me or just leave it hanging somewhere you can see it if it sits stationary on the bagger. I have had a manual oil pressure gauge in front of the cab window for the past 13,000 hours. Its very unnerving to look down at the electric oil pressure gauge and see it read zero!
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Go to the auto parts store, get a real mechanical temperature gauge with the capillary tube and numbers on the face, and install it, even if only temporarily. You can hang it off a hood bolt so you can observe it from the unloading tractor.
You will then know what is going on instead of just guessing. If the factory gauge is reading low for some reason, the new gauge will show normal operating temperature. If it reads low, you've got a thermostat problem.
You will then know what is going on instead of just guessing. If the factory gauge is reading low for some reason, the new gauge will show normal operating temperature. If it reads low, you've got a thermostat problem.
DoubleO7
Well-known Member
- Location
- Crystal River, FL
A mechanical guage with the bulb/probe might not go into the same port as the current sending unit. The cavity might not be deep enough.
But I have used this style on a JD with the bulb/probe coming out the backside of the guage.
3/8 npt but still the probe goes in 1 inch beyond the end of the npt.
Allso use the same brand and style with 1/8 npt.
But I have used this style on a JD with the bulb/probe coming out the backside of the guage.
3/8 npt but still the probe goes in 1 inch beyond the end of the npt.
Allso use the same brand and style with 1/8 npt.
DoubleO7
Well-known Member
- Location
- Crystal River, FL
Oops, the 1/8 npt one is for oil pressure.
Both only 1-1/2" diameter bodies on both.
Both only 1-1/2" diameter bodies on both.
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