JD 3010 gas popping and chokes down

I have a 1961 3010 gas that has started popping and chokes down when a load is applied at full throttle. The tractor will run wide open smoothly in any gear as long as there is no load. I can disk all day at half throttle with no problems, but as soon I as soon as it gets above half it will start popping and loose power in 20 feet or less. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I have drained the gas, new fuel line, pump,and filter. I put on new carb kit. Converted to electronic ignition 2 years ago.

(quoted from post at 07:58:27 05/12/20) I have a 1961 3010 gas that has started popping and chokes down when a load is applied at full throttle. The tractor will run wide open smoothly in any gear as long as there is no load. I can disk all day at half throttle with no problems, but as soon I as soon as it gets above half it will start popping and loose power in 20 feet or less. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I have drained the gas, new fuel line, pump,and filter. I put on new carb kit. Converted to electronic ignition 2 years ago.

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Start with the basics;

Plugged up air filter
Governor/throttle linkage
Choke linkage
Verify a consistent volume of fuel flow at carb
Plugged vent in fuel cap
Vacuum leak, carb to manifold, manifold to engine

Then you could move on to;
Valve adjustment
Ignition timing
Running hot
Compression check...

But from what you described my guess is that something is not right with fuel delivery;

Low float level
Saturated float or hole in float
Dirty passage
Restriction somewhere in the fuel system

I know you said you changed the fuel filter but do check it again, I have a swather that will in short order plug up 2 or 3 filters every cutting season until the loose junk in the tank settles down then it will be fine for the rest of the summer.

Just another someday job to add to the list.

Thanks I can rule out most of those except valves and timing

My new fuel pump has a clear bowl so I can see the fuel flowing freely. I unhook the air from the air filter with same results.

(quoted from post at 08:54:53 05/12/20) My new fuel pump has a clear bowl so I can see the fuel flowing freely. I unhook the air from the air filter with same results.

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When it starts acting up try closing the choke 1/2 to 3/4 and see if it improves.

This basically does two things,
First it reduces the amount of air which creates a richer mixture
Second the choke plate reduces the space for air to get into the engine which increases the air velocity and causes a harder pull on the flow of the fuel through a partially plugged passage or jet in the carb.
If doing this improves how it is running then you have confirmed you need to do further work to your fuel system.

Your observation of fuel at the bowl on the pump is only sort of testing part of the circuit.
If for example there is a chunk of crud obstructing the fuel flow past the needle and seat or your float is set too low your observation at the bowl will not tell you this.

My first farming tractor was a 3010 gas--I think they came from the factory that way--The 4010 gas had two more cylinders so they were half again as bad---Tee

Here is what ya do , the one guy has coved the basic's But let me add to . If you are running a HOT spark plug get rid of them and run what it calls for next make sure your load screw is opened for full load work do a Major tune up like he said valve adjustment , ing timing and check what she is doing at full throttle as far as full advance . Check the dist. for broken / stretched advance springs and here the BIGGY change your gas todays gas is NOT the gas they were designed to run on , i have been down this road with the Farmalls of the era and once you get past the 460-560 you are screwed big time as now we as in all of us around here can NOT get gas that will run them on . You have no real history on that tractor as to what all has been done to it or how many times that head has been off and milled down and each time you take off to flaten it you raise the Compression ratio and as compression ratio goes up the need for higher octane fuel increases. Reg gas for the day when new was a Minimum of 93 and MOST reg gas at the gas stations was 95 and ever the OLD gas semi's had to run 105 or better , yea i drove one of them old gas semi so i know what they needed and the gas pumps at the fuel islands in the truck stops was the good go go juice as it would even run in my 61 Ford with the hand built 390 tri power that started from a new bare block and bare heads . YOu can try the 89 octane and see if it helps then what they call the 93 and see how that works . With darn near 60 years of engine building under my belt i have a little bit of knowledge on this .

Thank you I will give the choke a try. I put in a new carb kit
and floats recently with no improvement.

Just a couple comments. While working at Deere dealer, one of the mechanics had a 3010 or 20 on the dynamometer . It would spit and sputter and back fire when ever he loaded it down. He did all the gasoline things, rebuilt the carburetor, had it apart more than once. Fuel flow , all that good stuff.

Finally, after wasting most of the day he put the timing light on it and found it was way way over advanced. Set it where it belonged and it smoothed right out and ran fine.

And they had a smiggen of lead in there to lube everything inside as well as leading up to the cumbustion chamber. That's just my opinion & if you put a $5.00 bill with it, you might have enough to buy a cup of pure coffee @ Starbucks.

My Ferguson TO-20 kept stalling out last week. Slow gas flow into the glass fuel bowl. I pulled the tank twice. Pulled the valve assembly twice and finally cleared the tiny blockage by using the air compressor to blow back up thru the valve assembly. Blowing down did NOT clear it.

I had a Case 411B that did the same thing. I was plowing a big field and the tractor pulled the plow nicely until I hit a tough spot or a steep hill. I tried all the fuel and ignition checks and nothing helped. We finally found the problem to be a faulty condenser that was breaking down the spark when engine started lugging down under heavy load. I took a condenser from another similar tractor and put it into the 411B and problem solved. However the problem transferred to the doner tractor after the switch, proving a faulty condenser. I got a new condenser for the doner and problems solved.
Loren

Thanks I ordered a new coil hoping that is the problem

If you still have the pot metal Marvel Schebler carb--replace it with the proper Zenith--I am surprised nobody said this yet--I owned a gas 3010 and 4010--I never did but I was told after I got rid of them that it would really help-Good Luck---Tee

It has a zenith

If you do check the valve clearances, look at the ends of the rocker arm shaft. The rubber plugs in the ends get hard and like to move in, and starving the valve train of lubrication. The valves can stick once warmed up and stay open. The rubber plugs should be right against the cotter pins. Try and see if they will move in, if they do remove the shaft and replace plugs.

Well--So much for my suggestion--Good Luck---Tee