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Can I get a tractor with a FEL without spend a mint?

B

Bowana85

Member
I have a Massey Ferguson TO30 that I am working to death and it does not have enough hp. I need a front end loader and could use a 4x4 at times. I am retired and do not want to finance a tractor. Any suggestions on an older tractor that has more horse power (I am thinking about 50 hp)?
What tractor or tractors should I be looking for?

I found a grey market tractor (50hp Mitsubishi d4000) with a front end loader for cheap. It looks like what I am looking for, but have been warned about the posibilities of repairing it.

I am looking online and can search. What are your suggestions. 4x4 in not totally necessary but the front end loader is a must.
 
You really need to specify a price range. But when I was looking about 5 years ago for a 60hp+ 4wd w/loader, nearly all were about $13k and up.
 
Yes but. I know a young farmer starting out. He bought a low end, cheap tractor/FEL. He paid enough in repairs to pay for a good one.
 
We see plenty of IH 2wd 574 and 584 tractors with
loaders selling for $5,000-$6,000 range. . 4wd IH
loader tractors will often fetch couple grand more.
Remember I am working with Canadian funds. If
you do look at one of these tractors, the models
with the shuttle shift transmission are by far best for
a loader.
 
Depending on your specific needs, you might want to consider a skidsteer. Much handier than a tractor loader for my
needs. I use it for logging/firewood, dirt, trash, mulching, forking, hanging deer, and the list goes on and on!
Doesn't tie up a tractor.
 

You might want to list the tasks and equipment you plan to operate with it besides being a loader, unless you only want it for a loader.
 
run DON'T WALK AWAY FORM THAT Mitsubishi they are trouble machines as in parts are hard to come by and they are engineered poorly or in other words there junk from the get go. Only way I would own one is if it was given to me and I would use it till it broke down then sell it for scrap iron
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:50 12/31/19) I have a Massey Ferguson TO30 that I am working to death and it does not have enough hp. I need a front end loader and could use a 4x4 at times. I am retired and do not want to finance a tractor. Any suggestions on an older tractor that has more horse power (I am thinking about 50 hp)?
What tractor or tractors should I be looking for?

I found a grey market tractor (50hp Mitsubishi d4000) with a front end loader for cheap. It looks like what I am looking for, but have been warned about the posibilities of repairing it.

I am looking online and can search. What are your suggestions. 4x4 in not totally necessary but the front end loader is a must.
Click to expand...
Here's one man's opinion: Once you add a loader on these smallish tractors the fwd becomes almost mandatory. Also, while I've spoke to people that were very happy with their grey market tractors, most of them were quite competent when it comes to doing their own repairs.
 
I think I am going to jump into the Mitsubishi Grey. It may kick me in the crotch, but I am a slow learner.
 
(quoted from post at 12:25:22 12/31/19) I think I am going to jump into the Mitsubishi Grey. It may kick me in the crotch, but I am a slow learner.
Click to expand...

I think I would try the find out why it'd for sale.
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:50 12/31/19) I have a Massey Ferguson TO30 that I am working to death and it does not have enough hp. I need a front end loader and could use a 4x4 at times. I am retired and do not want to finance a tractor. Any suggestions on an older tractor that has more horse power (I am thinking about 50 hp)?
What tractor or tractors should I be looking for?

Kept my eye on this one back in the fall. Nice, tight and dry tractor with under 5,000 hours I believe. Good backhoe, all Kubota. All tires appeared almost new. I tried everything out with the exception of getting it up to road speed. Sold for around $8900 with flat $350 buyer's premium. Location was Maryland. For someone who needed a tractor this size I think it was a good deal. Heck, if you could live without the backhoe, you could take it off and get back a good chunk of the purchase price. I'd try to find a tractor like this.
mvphoto47221.jpg
Click to expand...
 
If you are working a loader that much and that hard . You might find a more industrial loader would fit much better with about the same cost. They would be 4x4 already. Like an old Cat loader tough rugged and dependable.
 
I have owned several Grey Market tractors,they are the same as any other tractor sometimes better like the Yanmar I had with the 3 speed PTO.The price is the main consideration of course.Then again price is always the main consideration when I buy anything over $20.(LOL)
 
Well I'll warn you again. When it breaks down on you you will find it is next to impossible to find parts and if you do they cost a big $$$$. Plus you will also find it very hard to work on I know I learned the hard way last summer and took one in to work on it and about lost my shirt on it
 
Bow,
I guess you have to own a tractor to
really decide what works best for your
needs. I think Kubota has put a lot of
thought I their HST and loader. It's a
dream to operate.

On the other hand there are places I
wouldn't use the Kubota, instead I'll
use a cheaper terramite when it comes to
blazing a trail through a woods. I would
worry about damaging cab windows. Kubota
doesn't work in tight places and doesn't
have a hoe that you can use without
getting of cab, No rollover protection
either. No way would I use a new Kubota
to poke a brush fire and drive over hot
coals. Have to be very careful not to get
too close to trees and damage cab.

My point, not one loader can do
everything. A Kubota can lift higher,
has a larger bucket, a sweet HST, 4x4.

Terramites has 2 wheel locking
differential when going forward. With
rear ballast I don't need 4x4.

And you don't know what works best for
your needs without many hours on the
seat.

Remember you get what you pay for most
of the time.
A backhoe may be the best loader but they
don't have a PTO.


George
 
The 44, 54, 64, 74 & 84 series from IH are good little tractors. Plenty of them still available & a lot of them have loaders. Parts are still
somewhat easy to find, too. I picked up a 2444 (commercial not industrial model 444 tractor at about 48hp) at a little under 5000 hrs., with loader
& trencher over the summer & absolutely love it. Only paid $2000 for it with a tired motor. So far I've only changed the oil, the fuel from taxed to
off road, all filters, one hydraulic hose off of the levers, belts & thermostat. The only time I've noticed it to be a bit underpowered is on the
road in 4-HI. In low range it gets the work done with no problem. It slobbers from the crankcase breather, that's about the worst of it. I only went
through about a quart of oil in the 60 or so hours I've put on it since I got it. Most of which were loading out 58 sopping wet loads of manure.

Do I recommend that you find a tractor with tired motor? No. Just wanted to relate to you what that 50 year old tractor can still do, pooped engine
& all.

Mike
 

I am not telling you to buy the grey market tractor... Everyone I have worked on were great tractors other than getting the parts they were no different than any other tractor...

I have a bud that has one he's the best welder I know of and great with mechanical repairs... He has a grey market tractor the front end has broke on him he's snapped the tractor in haft two times.. He has abused it from day one he has never had an issue he could not weld back together... The tractor just keeps on running SHOCK...

You did not say the price...
 
I don't understand the "hard to work on" aspect. Don't the bolts go "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" like any other?

Or is this one of those things like where you can't figure out the distributor on an Allis Chalmers because you are only familiar with Farmalls? (HINT: Both work on the same principles and have the same components in roughly the same locations. And yes, I've encountered more than my fair share of people with this hangup.)

Friend of mine bought a brand new 1000 series Deere last summer. First thing he did was blaze trails through the brush with it. I said to him, "Hey! Don't scratch up your nice new tractor!" He said, "I bought it to USE, not to sit and look at!" He has a point. Seems silly to spend all that money if you're not going to use it.
 
There isn?t not much that I don?t check and compare prices on . Kinda like the starter solenoid discussion we had the other day the dealer was actually cheaper than the aftermarket . But when I needed to replace the water pump and the dealer was 360$ and aftermarket was 60$ I bought the aftermarket one .
 
George, if your new Kubota has a cab, it is ROPS certified. If it didn't have a cab, it would have a roll bar that is ROPS certified. Tractors can not be sold in the US without one or the other.
 
George, if your new Kubota has a cab, it is ROPS certified. If it didn't have a cab, it would have a roll bar that is ROPS certified. New tractors can not be sold in the US without one or the other.
 
Jwm,
Yes my Kubota has a cab. Were is the seat on the add on backhoe? Where's the protection you say is required?
George
 


I think you will find the ROPS standard requires protection for the operator when moving the tractor to a different location, not when operating the hoe. What do the operating instructions say? I wouldn't be surprised if the operating instructions for your hoe say the tractor is to be moved only with the operator in the tractor seat, not on the hoe seat, or something to that affect. Also you would need to see if Kubota designed and tested it so the cab still provides protection for the hoe attachment. Not all ROPS (bars) structures are directly over the seat, many are behind the seat. Does your hoe seat have a seatbelt? Can you reach all the controls of the tractor required to properly set it up and move it from the hoe seat?

So you set up and put the loader bucket on the ground, climb on the hoe set up and dig. To move forward you fold the hoe up, get down, get in the tractor seat to pick the bucket up and move the tractor. No ROPS required for the hoe seat as the tractor is not moving from place to place (even a few feet) with you in the hoe operator seat. If the manufacturer's instructions say move only from the tractor seat and you move it from the hoe seat; OSHA would say you are at fault for not following instructions.
 
(quoted from post at 15:30:28 12/31/19) I don't understand the "hard to work on" aspect. Don't the bolts go "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" like any other?

Or is this one of those things like where you can't figure out the distributor on an Allis Chalmers because you are only familiar with Farmalls? (HINT: Both work on the same principles and have the same components in roughly the same locations. And yes, I've encountered more than my fair share of people with this hangup.)

Friend of mine bought a brand new 1000 series Deere last summer. First thing he did was blaze trails through the brush with it. I said to him, "Hey! Don't scratch up your nice new tractor!" He said, "I bought it to USE, not to sit and look at!" He has a point. Seems silly to spend all that money if you're not going to use it.
Click to expand...



Barnyard, it is hard to understand that you don't understand "hard to work on" I don't think that a week goes by here without someone criticizing the designers who designed something with no concern for getting at parts that are likely to need to be replaced.
 
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