I've got a kubota l260 tractor that came with the land I just purchased (24 acres) it mowes ok I've got a little automotive experience but no diesel tractors. I've fixed a few leaks here and there on the machine and I've purchased a 9 inch auger for it, states its rated for tractors that are 18 to 30 hp I am trying not to just full rev and dump the clutch but I'm having less than appropriate luck digging post holes with it. After blowing an o ring on the pump from trying to pull it out of the ground with too much soil and the leverage set up incorrectly on the bars I'm getting frustrated with it dieing in the hole I'm to fat and wore out to dig Holes myself so a machine is going to have to do it. I've heard tales of turning up the injection pump to get some more power and I feel like with just a whiff more power this tractor will do for my needs but if it cant do that Its for sale or scrap. I'm aware it will make people cry if it puts out some smoke and it's very risky to turn it up, is anyone willing and or able to help guide me to a proper on site way to turn this thing up. I am prepared to replace it if she goes but I would like to use this tractor seeing how it doesnt include a payment for its use. I've got some other implements I want to use on it and even with finesse power is just always the issue and just barely. I've got it starting easily even with a 30 degree morning I had it started with 30 seconds of glow plug and a spin so it seems healthy enough. I plan on saving up for a few years and buying similarly sized lots around me so this tractor will quickly be too small for my use but for the time being can we squeeze some more out ?
- Thread starter Jramsey84
- Start date
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Welcome to YT
Increasing engine HP or rpm's for post hole digging will not solve your problem of auger getting stuck in the hole. Slower pto rpm's & frequently raising auger then lowering auger while attempting to dig hole will be much more helpful.
More HP from an engine normally requires more cooling capacity for the extra heat from added HP
greg oliver
Well-known Member
SMS, My dad and I tried using a post hole digger for our freestall. After about 12 holes with more hand digging and pipe wrench turning had a contractor with a backhoe come in. Delaware county has more rocks than dirt anyway! Picture is from 1988.
thepumpguysc
Member
If u turn on your "e-mail" I'll tell u how..
or email ME.
Its quite simple.
or email ME.
Its quite simple.
showcrop
Well-known Member
Turning it up won't hurt anything. The amount of additional power that you get without a turbo to push additional air is not that great anyhow. My experience with a post hole digger is that you just have to keep your fingers on the quadrant and raise it instantly if it starts to pull more quickly. Higher speed also helps, and increased tire pressure to help to keep it from being able to suddenly pull in.
jon f mn
Well-known Member
Been digging post holes this
weekend and they can be a
pain. The way to do it is to
dig a bit and raise the auger
to clear it, then sign some
more. Watch close and if it
starts to screw in raise it
quickly to stop it. You
really don't want more power
as that will just screw it in
tighter and be harder to get
out.
weekend and they can be a
pain. The way to do it is to
dig a bit and raise the auger
to clear it, then sign some
more. Watch close and if it
starts to screw in raise it
quickly to stop it. You
really don't want more power
as that will just screw it in
tighter and be harder to get
out.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Question, is there any black smoke when engine is under a heavy load now? If not, increasing the max fuel setting will help power a bit. Once you start seeing heavy smoke on any non turbo diesel increasing the max fuel will NOT gain any more power, only more smoke. Turbocharged engines are a different story..
Just plain something wrong. An L 260 should dig any hole you ever want. Look first at you air
filter, then check the fuel filter. After that look at the digger and check it over for binding. No
need to "turn it up" just find the problem. I would be interested in seeing a picture of the digger.
As I said I have sold a many of them and that little tractor has enough pto power to dig holes.
filter, then check the fuel filter. After that look at the digger and check it over for binding. No
need to "turn it up" just find the problem. I would be interested in seeing a picture of the digger.
As I said I have sold a many of them and that little tractor has enough pto power to dig holes.
digging a hole with an auger is more about technique then power as had been said dig a little pull it up to clear the auger dig a little pull it up , do not let it screw its self into the ground , I use a 75 hp tractor and if I let it try to dig a hole in one shot I can have problems
As mentioned the first thing to do is make sure the tractor is in
proper running condition- if you haven?t already, do some
basic maintenance- fuel filter, air filter check throttle linkage for
full travel to achieve rated rpms. From what you have told us I
think your problems are more needing to get used to running
your augur. I never run a tractor mounted augur at a high
Rpm. It?s more likely to break the point or get stuck. Augur
performance varies a lot with soil conditions. Nice stone free
sandy soils will drill a lot easier than heavy clays, real stoney
soil is the worst. Too dry or too wet isn?t good either. Drill down
a little then raise the augur to clear it then go a little more and
repeat till you reach your depth. You may need to move the
tractor slightly to keep the drill straight in the hole , if you are
going full depth you may need to shovel the dirt away from the
hole and around here with heavy soils and some rocks you
may want a big pipe wrench to turn the drill backwards if it
gets stuck and a crowbar to help knock stones loose if you
hear the drill banging on a stone. Hope this helps you even
though I didn?t actually answer your original questions.
proper running condition- if you haven?t already, do some
basic maintenance- fuel filter, air filter check throttle linkage for
full travel to achieve rated rpms. From what you have told us I
think your problems are more needing to get used to running
your augur. I never run a tractor mounted augur at a high
Rpm. It?s more likely to break the point or get stuck. Augur
performance varies a lot with soil conditions. Nice stone free
sandy soils will drill a lot easier than heavy clays, real stoney
soil is the worst. Too dry or too wet isn?t good either. Drill down
a little then raise the augur to clear it then go a little more and
repeat till you reach your depth. You may need to move the
tractor slightly to keep the drill straight in the hole , if you are
going full depth you may need to shovel the dirt away from the
hole and around here with heavy soils and some rocks you
may want a big pipe wrench to turn the drill backwards if it
gets stuck and a crowbar to help knock stones loose if you
hear the drill banging on a stone. Hope this helps you even
though I didn?t actually answer your original questions.
Everyone is right about taking small bites and lifting the auger often to clear it. But you didn't mention what kind of soil you have. If its rocky, forget about using the auger- it will never work right. Goes every which way, gets stuck between rocks, just won't work. I grew up on a rocky place, and I think we had a posthole digger, but can't remember for sure- because we dug 'em all by hand.
INteresting, because... and post hole auger is the one tool that you should use at very very very low rpms. It should dig at its own rate and as others have said, not allowed to screw it self into the ground. Having good sharp teeth on the auger helps. Having a double flight auger helps. Having a heavier auger/ digger helps over a light duty auger. But the rpm should be just above an idle in normal digging. If they auger snags a rock or root, the tractor should die and stop. If you have lots of rocks, you need a completely different type of phd that is upgraded with a rock bit, and may need to move to a skidsteer type digger or better. regular tractor phds are not good for rock, not designed for rock.
john in la
Well-known Member
Sometimes turning the operator down is a better solution than turning the motor up.
Turning it up would do no good. Contrary
to what the black smoke truck crowd says,
smoke does not equal power. Smoke equals
wasted fuel and overly high EGTs that eat
valves, manifolds, turbos, and pistons.
As others have stated, sharp augers and small bites is the key.
to what the black smoke truck crowd says,
smoke does not equal power. Smoke equals
wasted fuel and overly high EGTs that eat
valves, manifolds, turbos, and pistons.
As others have stated, sharp augers and small bites is the key.
morgan in ar
Member
Delaware county Oklahoma?
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
If your so sure it's too small then you better sell it and buy something bigger! It sounds like a money pit anyhow, it should never blow an o-ring because you
were trying to lift something too heavy, that's what relief valves are for. Like someone else said, when augering run the engine slow and take smaller bites,
lifting it before it screws itself into the ground.
were trying to lift something too heavy, that's what relief valves are for. Like someone else said, when augering run the engine slow and take smaller bites,
lifting it before it screws itself into the ground.
greg oliver
Well-known Member
Morgan, Not Oklahoma but New York. Used to be 5 different milk haulers going by our farm which was a dirt road until 1990. Only 2 dairy farms left on the road.
morgan in ar
Member
Sounds like the country is in the same shape everywhere...
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