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How will you secure this tractor?

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

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Kubota 3560
How do you safety secure it.
 
"[i:6886729c10]How will you secure this tractor[/i:6886729c10]?"

If'n I was securing it, it'd be my tractor. So guess I ain't gotta worry about it. *lol*



I'd run a chain and load binder to each axle, plus another chain and binder for the loader. Loader bucket would be facing down.
 
A clevis on the draw bar with chain pulling back. I chain on the front loader bracket pulling forward and a chain over loader to hold bucket down.
 
First check the operator's manual. A lot of newer equipment has manufacturer recommendations for tie down and lifting points available. Lacking that, Cross chain from the axle housings, further out the better, to the trailer, front and rear pulling opposite directions. Then one chain through the pipe member of the loader. 5 chains and binders total. Softeners may be needed to protect the paint and it may be easier to have the chains under the tractor than out the front and back. Depends on the best path for the chains, determined by the trailer and tractor position on it.
 
Just sell the truck and get the tractor and drive it everywhere. Think how much you can save on license and insurance. That's what the Mennonites do around here, some of the not as strict Amish do too.
 
Some real funny guys here today so here goes ..... start with 3 dozen heavy duty bungee cords made in China.
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:18 10/30/19) Some real funny guys here today so here goes ..... start with 3 dozen heavy duty bungee cords made in China.
Click to expand...

In Texas, those are called rubber bands. *lol*
 
I like this response best. Maybe a hole could be drilled in that front loader bracket so that a clevis could be used there as well. On my loader bucket I have a weld on hook near the top of the side cutting edges on each side just to make the loader more useful. Those hooks could be used to chain it down as well.
 
Take a closer look at axles in pic. Chain will get
tangled up on rear axle with 3 point and interfer with anything attached to 3 pt. Chaining to front axle will cause a problem cross cross bracing.
 
If you get it you'll need to weld 3 hooks across the top of the loader bucket for lifting things so you can use them to tie the front down.A clevis on the draw bar will work for the rear.
 
Grandpa love,
I'm finding the responses to be a little funny. Everyone condems how I do things, calling them death machines, yet I don't really see a good solution offered.

I will use chains and 2 inch ratchet straps 2, not from HF. My ratchet straps are rated stronger than 3/8 grade 70 chain. Tractor will be secured like everything I haul using 8 different tie points. One time I almost flipped trailer and terramite didn't come loose.
geo
 
How I would actually do it if I was hauling it. I would put a clevis in the drawbar and run a chain through it from one side back a bit to the other. On the front ( if when looking in person it looked built well enough ) I would stick a clevis into the front loader bracket and run a chain through it from one side to the other. Then using a ratchet binder on each chain tighten it up. This will prevent paint damage. I do know it is not DOT compliant now that I have been reading up on the YTDOT code ! But that is how I'd actually do it until I got pulled over and told otherwise. I do not trust straps on tractors. I do not see the 4 tie down ears to hook chains to as required by dot and ytdot.
 
Thing is some of the Mennonites can leave the tires on and some others need to put steel wheels with rubber pads on the machines. The pads keep from tearing the road surface up. Local laws. If it is only used in the field then they take those pads off.
 

geo,

The three point arms may need to be up or down, and there is nothing in the picture you asked about on the arms. Interferences are a reason I mentioned possibly having the tiedowns under the tractor. The reality on anything you are securing is; you need to physically be hands on with it on the trailer to see where you can connect, it changes with trailers due to different anchor points and positioning on the trailer. Cross chained, pulling down at about a 45 degree angle with 4 chains is the generally accepted basic starting point for hauling rubber tired equipment in my experience. Additional chains, and straps where appropriate, added as needed to meet weight and size regulations. A tractor as new as this one may have tiedown info in the operator's manual and/or may have a tie down kit option for it which might be handy to add if it was going to be transported regularly.

Over the years I have helped drivers secure many loads and will say I have seen the same piece of equipment chained down differently by different drivers and they all got through DOT checks with no problem. Outside of recommending you replace your bolts with hooks, I expect you will likely get by for what, and where, you are hauling without a problem if you tie down as you have been.
Best regards,
Jim
 
I haul these from the plant in Jefferson,Ga to dealers many times a year.This is how they want them tied down.Chain over drawbar pulling forward.Chain thru tube of loader pulling back.Strap across top of bucket.Been thru a few level one DOT inspections hauling these and have never had a complaint on securement.
 
Draw bar ain't part of the 3pt and I've been thru State Police check tied down just that way with no problems.BTW I've never heard of a tractor breaking loose from a loader while on a trailer(LOL)
 
(quoted from post at 11:07:02 10/30/19) A clevis on the draw bar with chain pulling back. I chain on the front loader bracket pulling forward and a chain over loader to hold bucket down.
Click to expand...

BINGO!!! I've hauled a few like that, and that is how I did it.
 
While a loader may not come loose from the tractor it will move independently from the tractor.
The rule is there to prevent people from tying down a backhoe tractor at the bucket on the rear.

So the tractor needs tying down independently from any attachments.
 
What are you using to haul it on. If it is your dump trailer, Everything depends on where you can anchor chains in your dump bed. If there are D rings installed in your dump bed, did the manufacturer build them in, or did someone just weld them to the floor????
Loren
 
"Chain over drawbar pulling forward."
What do you mean, "Chain over drawbar?
Look at first pic. All I see is a tounge in a fixed position, no drawbar that would allow you to move tongue. Would a clevis attached to tounge work?
"Chain thru tube of loader pulling back." Aren't there 4 hydraulic pipes in loader tube?

So, are using just 2 chains, one in back and one in front. Then how many straps to hold front bucket down? Would a strap over loader arms work or does strap actually have to go over bucket?
Thanks
Geo
 
14k 20 ft implement trailer with D rings in 4 corners. I think my lawn roller may weigh about the same as tractor. Don't see any issues. Will need to position rear wheels of tractor some place between trailer's 4 wheels. Carried enough things on trailer, I can visually how much weight it on truck's hitch and where to position tractor. When I find the sweet spot to position tractor, it's a smooth ride and safe ride.

Don't think it would fit in my 10k dump trailer. Wouldn't want to even to consider it.
geo.
 
4520bw,
I could store it in my other pole barn. I would like it in new pole barn which I'm thinking winter might bite me. I would love to push snow with it. I may have to use Jubilee if all the stars don't line up.
geo.
 
George it depends like Loren said about your anchor points ect. I have hauled a bunch of equipment and helped chain down a lot of heavy equipment over the years. Its really hard to tell where to put the chains on the tractor without being there. Sorry. This is what we usually do for all kinds of equipment big or small. Say its an older tractor. We anchor each corner separately. Meaning a tractor,dozer, excavator ect. That would be 4 binders/ straps. Opposite directions front and back. Not sure if the loader needs its own strap or not. I know the boom on an excavator does so it doesnt swing while going down the road. Once you figure out where to hook it should be a breeze after that. Where I live is a good hike for you. When you deliver it please just park it in front of the garage. Once here it will be safe.
 

On the rear... a chain through the holes between the rim and center will keep the rear in check. It the wheels stay, the tractor stays... big clevis on swinging drawbar would be second choice.

On the front, a chain over the front axle, under the engine, and back over the other side and too the front again.

And for good luck a chain over the bottom bucket mounts would be the extra good luck charm.


Also add one more chain than needed.
 
I believe you will need to reverse chain it as a couple posters said.

Also, chaining at end of drawbar like you where doing is not the best.
 
I have a Kubota B7510 w/loader, sometimes backhoe mounted.
I have a twisted clevis on the drawbar and a straight clevis mounted
on a plate under the radiator. I think it weighs around 2000-2250
with loader. I use two 1/4" grade 70 chains, one in front, one
in rear. But then rarely travel over 30 miles with it and I don't have
to scale it because I'm under 26,000#.
I had not heard of running a chain thru the loader tube before,
but that's a great idea.
 
"[i:e68d848668]Chain will get tangled up on rear axle with 3 point...[/i:e68d848668]"
Depends on how you're routing the chain. I would use one chain for each wheel. Chain drops over tire and onto axle, then gets torqued with binder.

"...[i:e68d848668]and interfer with anything attached to 3 pt[/i:e68d848668]."
In the photos, there is nothing attached to 3-pt. You didn't specify anything different.

Before I get to the bucket, let me clarify my method:
Each chain would be pulling each wheel/axle down and to the side of trailer, effectively anchoring each wheel to the trailer decking.

"[i:e68d848668]Chaining to front axle will cause a problem cross cross bracing[/i:e68d848668]."
That's why I would also tip bucket down, then chain the bucket so that it, too, is held tightly to the trailer.

If in an accident, I would want my tractor destroyed while attached to the trailer, rather than it coming loose at some point and becoming a very heavy projectile.

I like to over-do things, and I have LOTS of 2" x 27' ratchet straps, so I would also likely use 3 or 4 straps in addition to the chains. By the way, my chains are 5/16" Grade 70. Also have (1) 3/8" and (2) 1/2", but rarely ever need them.

Anyway, slim chance I'll ever have any tractor that new, and they likely won't come with any owner's manual *lol*

Nice-looking machine George!
 
Over the drawbar then pull forward to each side of the trailer than around axle and pull back on each side of axle. Then a last chain over the bucket. Bucket needs to be tied as it could come loose from the loader. Put as required protection under chains to prevent chains scratching paint. Your old straps will work for that.
As for straps being stronger than a 3/8th's 70 chain you must be buying something special for straps. Would like to see that. The 2 inch ones I see are 3300 wll breaking at 10,000 and the 4 inch ones are only 5400 wll breaking at 16,200 but the wll is the needed figure. 3/8 70 chain is a 6600 wll and higher breaking 26,400. SO I call BS on the strap being stronger than a 3/8 70 chain.
 

Frond add D-rings, rear a clevis and another way I can not find the pix. I made a draw bar for 3 point with two D-rings.

Loader, I have a 1" bar thru the tube on the loader I have not refined it yet to my like'n...




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