24t safety stop and needle frame

Bkpigs

Member
Trying to adjust the safety stop on my 24t baler. The other day I broke 3 shear bolts baling because the safety stop was slow to retract. I cannot adjust the safety stop rod because the rod will bottom out as seen in the picture.

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The manual says to adjust 3/4 to 1 inch for clearance from the main frame when up. Does that mean when the needles are in the home position or in the tying position? I cannot adjust any higher in the tying position as the needle frame will hit the safety stop rod as seen in the following pictures.

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In over 2000 bales I have not had the baler miss a knot and only recently this started.

Oh, and I am pretty sure my parts baler I bought last year had less bales through it. Kinda thinking I should have just transferred the knotters, needles, and chain drives over to the "junk" baler. I think the bale chamber on this old girl is getting thin. :)
 
Do the needles go to full home position?? That can be the problem if I remember right but it has been years since I messed with a JD baler
 
One bit of advice. Replace the safety spring. If it fails you have no protection. I wrecked a set of needles and bent a needle frame because of that many years ago. Tom
 
I wonder if that's the case. Seems odd that the safety stop adjustment is bottoming out like that, might mean that if the needle frame isn't going back to true "home" position then someone has over adjusted the stop lever to compensate. Once the needle frame moves into the "home" position, the needle frame pushes on that stop lever to drop the safety stop out of the bale chamber.

I'd have to check my 24T manual, but based on what I read in the posted picture, I believe the needle frame clearance to main frame check is done when the needles are up in tying position.
 
Guessing here, so grain and a half of sodium chloride. If the rod is hitting the arm inside the clevis, it could restrict the travel. If you
need the rod shorter, cut off the threads by 1/2 inch, or check the parts baler to measure its rod. Jim
 
I would say get a book, and start from step one for the timing.
Something just a little off at the beginning can upset the end result.
A chain just one link off can multiply things!!!
 
You may need to look at your needle brake if it?s not tight
enough it?ll allow the needles to drift back into the chamber
since you say it just started this issue it?s a good thing to
check.
 
I am pretty sure you to lengthen that rod not shorten it. the plunger stop must be pulled outa the way when the needles come back down. if the needles are down and the stop is still up that's why the shear pins are breaking. used to have a 24t. plus check the holding clutch for tightness.
 
looked again , your right to shorten it. but something else is going on like the needles cant be staying down due to the disc not holding them. don't think you need that much shorter anyhow as it worked before.
 

Adjust turnbuckle on needle lift link to reduce the distance you are measuring in the photo below to 3/4" to 1", then re-adjust the rod to the plungerhead stop.

That will correct the motion of the needle frame so it isn't whacking and bending the rod at the other end of the cycle.

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I think you have some other problem. The knotter has a lift rod that raises and lowers the needles. Plus,
the needles tuck up under the baler frame. Make sure nothing faulty is going on with either one. I have
had that lift rod bend and my bale case center portion broke loose keeping the needles from returning to
home position correctly. Once adjusted correctly, they normally stay there unless something else is
changing.
 

Photo in operators manual you posted is with needles pulled up in knotters not home position against PH stop linkage . I think needles are being pulled too far past knotters & needle lift link needs lengthening then needle frame can pull PH stop out of chamber correctly.

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(quoted from post at 11:58:07 07/04/19) In Bobs picture the L shaped arm control behind the tape measure may be the problem.

Only way the L shaped part in Bobs photo could be causing a problem is it's not freely pivoting on it's attaching pin or rod is adjusted too short which BTW I think rod is adjusted to short.
 
I adjusted the needle frame to retract further and now I am getting 2-3/4" from the plunger face to the safety stop when the stop is retracting and flush. I was also able to lengthen the safety stop rod a little also. Lengthening the rod delays the safety stop retraction.

Now I just need to recheck the timing
Thanks everyone.
 
(quoted from post at 13:06:08 07/04/19) I adjusted the needle frame to retract further and now I am getting 2-3/4" from the plunger face to the safety stop when the stop is retracting and flush. I was also able to lengthen the safety stop rod a little also. Lengthening the rod delays the safety stop retraction.

Now I just need to recheck the timing
Thanks everyone.

It's AMAZING what happens when the factory instructions are followed! ;-)
 
the only thing is the factory instruction were unclear as to when the measurement for the frame clearance should be made. It sounded like when the needles were up in the thing position, but apparently they meant the frame being in the up position as in the needles in the home position.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:30 07/04/19) the only thing is the factory instruction were unclear as to when the measurement for the frame clearance should be made. It sounded like when the needles were up in the thing position, but apparently they meant the frame being in the up position as in the needles in the home position.

I sure enjoy working with small square balers!

Did you pound some hay through it yet, to try it out?
 

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