Leaking new needle valve marvel scheduler tsx 97 carb

Replaced needle seat new float set at 1/4 inch still not shutting off flow totally have spring clip on needle to float any guesses what I missed Thanks for help Paul

Take the spring clip off the float to flooar valve needle.

Take the spring clip off the float to float valve needle.

Grampsh1,Do you have the fiber washer under the needle seat and is it tightened real tight.Set the needle in the seat and tap it down with a screwdriver handle to seat the needle,remove the spring clip and set the float to 1/4".Be sure the float does not have any gas in it,and not dragging on the bowl.

First,are you sure it really is flooding?

It is normal for an updraft to leak a few drips after a shut off, and especially after a failed choke assist start. It is simply fuel running back down out of the intake.

A true flooding carb will idle rich, load up and die, black smoke, and will continue to drip any time the fuel valve is on and not running. In severe cases it can even fill the air cleaner tube to the point of filling the engine with fuel.

But, if it is flooding, one of the most common causes is trash under the needle valve and the seat. It can come down the fuel line, or it can get in the inlet fitting while trying to connect the fuel line. It only takes a tiny speck. Try removing the drain plug, let the fuel run out into a clean glass, see what you catch. If there are rust flakes, the tank is contaminated and will need to be cleaned or in severe cases, replaced. Also be sure the sediment bowl is clean, and the screen is in place. There should also be a screen where the sediment bowl screws into the tank.

Once clean fuel is established, sometimes draining the carb will allow the needle valve to open far enough for the trash to flush out.

Other causes are a bent float hitting the inside of the bowl, or one of the pontoons filled with fuel. Give it the shake test, should not feel or hear fuel inside the float.

Check the seal of the needle valve. Be sure the seat is tight against the gasket. Turn the upper half of the carb upside down with the weight of the float resting on the needle. Suck on the inlet fitting, hold your tongue over the fitting. It should hold vacuum. If not, it is still leaking somewhere. Could be the needle or the seat is nicked or defective. Look closely, it doesn't take much. There should be a slight ring around the needle where it seats in the seat. The seat must be perfectly smooth, no nicks or imperfections. Sometimes it can be lapped with a Qtip in a drill with lapping compound.

Don't be discouraged, those are easy carbs to service. Keep after it and it will work. The originals are better than the new aftermarkets.

Let us know how it goes...

I've had trouble with a couple of these carbs., the needle valve in the new kit wouldn't thread all the way into the carb. Had to remove about 3/16th inch off the
seat so it would screw in all the way. Just something to look for.

Gramps, your post looks like a continuation of one about a problem that you have been working on, so I went back to look at your previous posts. I didn't find any about a leaking carburetor. Can you give some information?

thanks for all suggestions will recheck remove spring float to needle had already replaced sediment bowl with new one removed tank rattled with hand full of half inch hex nuts flushed caught gas in a clear jar no debris visible blown out gas line is copper blown out float holding on air test when upside down and blowing by mouth on inlet will also try the tap on needle to seat obviously missing something simple again thanks for help
Paul

Make a tool out of a piece of flat bar are a old file to really grab the seat and tighten the ell out of it... Use a pencil are a wood dowel to lap the seat to polish it. You can chuck a Q-tip in a drill use some lapin compound are something like tooth past to lap it in also you will still need to finish it off with a pencil are a wood dowel.