Need Some Advice on Soldering

I need to solder a float arm onto a two inch diameter brass float. My soldering experience
is VERY limited. First, I need to unsolder an old bracket off the brass float. I don't want
to disturb the soldered seam around the two halves of the float. Is this best done with an
electric solder gun, or a Berz-o-matic torch? Which should I use to solder the new arm onto
the float? I'm replacing the cork float in a Farmall Regular carburetor, with a brass
Briggs and Stratton float.
 
Any soldering you do will probably melt the 2 halves. I would use a small propane torch to do the work and not worry about the 2 halves coming apart. After you have the old bracket off then re solder the halves by gently clamping them. Lastly I would solder the new bracket on while it is still hot. Having someone to hold stuff with a pair of pliers would be helpful. Helpful tip: do not heat the solder with the torch, it will just drip, heat the brass and touch the solder to it and it will flow to the heat. Kester's acid core solder and clean with paste flux also. Good Luck, Ellis
 
I would use a big electric soldering iron or an old soldering copper heated on a gas stove or LP grill. I would try to create a heat sink to keep the two halves from coming apart. Search online on how to tin a soldering iron. Sheetmetal apprentice 1965 - 68 Did you consider epoxy?
 
I really think you shouldn't mess with this. Now let me gingerly start in. I myself would use a good quality soilder gun. I have like eight of the big Weller D550 guns and have rebuilt all of them. They work fantastic. Next you want to use the new type soilder paste used for doing pipe work. Home depot and Lowes have it. You want everything sparkle sparkley clean. To accomplish this i would go to the cleaning isle of your super market and pick a can of Barkeepers Friend up. A little water, an old tooth brush, and some of that cleaner. Your parts will glitter. The original attached part of the float is all ready tinned. Just re tin your original rod and soilder the new float on. You want to do this ONE TIME. If you mess the joint up then you are going to mess up the integrity of the float. Practice going through the motions of doing the repair. after everything cools dip the new float in a little jar of gasoline. Just watch for any bubbles. Understand the brass that float is made of will dent and can rip like paper. Watch out!
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Do not use a torch! Especially a run of the mill propane torch. Jewelers torch maybe. I use a soldering copper for floats. An electric gun may work, but I have never tried one.
 
First I take a float & put in a freezer for several hrs or overnight. Then pull it out and submerge it In a pan of boiling water. This will tell you if it has a leak in main seam.Heating the air in float ,bubbles will come out if you have a leak. I have done several John Deere type floats. All brass floats has a vent hole. Drill a small hole in the vent I have a fixture I made to hold a float in a pan of cold water.This to be strong enough to firmly hold the float. Then I use a electric Iron at least 550 watts. Clean the 2 contact area, then tin each. Then keep the water level as high on the float as you can get. Hopefully above the 2 seamed halves. Put the hinge in place. With the soldering gun in place on the hinge ,with a little pressure ,pull the trigger and you will see the solder come out between the float and the hinge. Quickly lay your gun down, with a little water in a spray bottle cool the float. It should be cool enough to put your finger on it. Now put a drop of solder on tip of solder gun. Put on vent hole a quickly pull your gun away when solder melts. test in freezer & then in boiling water. This works for me.
 
Just be careful and a little brave. As I said you want to practice and make your measurements several times before you commit. Some older carbs had pretty sloppy tolerance so you should get away with it.
 
Heat is something that needs to be controlled on a float, else collapse is a concern.

On the floats I have dealt with, there was a patch of solder in the middle of the float. There is a tiny hole in the float that needs to be uncovered first.

Do the balance of you soldering. Allow to cool. The vent keeps the cooling air within the float from forming a big vacuum and collapsing the float.

Prep the area around the hole, and with minimal heat (soldering iron tip), be quick & solder that hole shut.

Good luck !
 

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