Blade removal on AC 160 mower... Broken cotter pin?

So I got the AC 160 mower re-leveled today. Couldn't quite get it 100% perfect (seemed like if I went with the bottom hole, the PTO shaft shield wanted to drag on the hit adjust bracket), so I went one above it, and then dropped the PTO shaft support as close as I could to level with it.



I had a heck of a time getting the top pin out of that bracket so I could adjust it, good grief. Shined the two rusty pins up with the wire wheel while I had it off. Does anybody know of a good place to get new pins? In case I ever try to restore this old girl?



Anyway, that aside, after I got it adjusted and mowed with it, I was pretty pleased. But then I got the deck up and went to look at the blades and maybe sharpen them. Here is what the blades look like.



So, they seem pretty... Worn out and beat up to me. Or maybe they're supposed to look like this and somebody can tell me I'm wrong? But they seem super, duper dull. And not sure what is with the indents on the blade, either. So the one side, I was able to get the pin out of the castle nut.

The other side, the pin seems to be rusted into the castle nut and I have nothing to grab onto on either side. What should I do?



Also can't seem to get the nut on the one I got the pin out to budge. Probably need a bigger cheater... Or the hot wrench. But I am stumped on the busted cotter pin. What are my options here?

Heat it till red let cool. If broke smoother on other side take stait punch and knock out. If that don't work heat again let cool and take nut off over cotter. Itll be pretty soft and wont damage nut. Then punch out the pieces.

The blade probably should be replaced, or sharpened/ballanced at a mower shop. Three options on the cotter pin. Use a 1/8" sharp bit and drill it out.
Use a pin punch on it and hope. Turn the nut with a socket and cheater pipe shearing off the pin flush, then punch it out. Jim

Blue tipped bolt cutter time.

use 1/2" impact if you have room to get in there. removed many many castle nuts with out removing cotter pins on tierods and ball joints.

shaun Wallace & Traditional Farmer -- Sounds like a heat and beat job to me. Nice.

Janicholson -- Afraid of busting a hardened drill bit in the hole is my one drawback. Think I will have to cheater my breaker bar to get these nuts off though for sure, hope it will take care of the cotter pin and I can get at it with a punch in a vice or on an anvil.

rustred -- Hmmm... Not sure if I can get an impact in there. . Some brush hogs have an access cover, but this one does not seem to.

At least you have grass to lay on. I just have 3/4 inch gravel, mixed with dirt.I think I would just take a skim cut on opposite sides of the nut. If you nick the bolt it shouldn't hurt. Or just cut the bolt head. What I like about my woods the pin is held in with a keeper, and 1/2 inch bolt. Only need to get under the mower, to push the pin back in. Stan

I would safely block it up and crawl under it with a 4 1/2 angle grinder and sharpen them right where they are. But I leave mine dull to
reduce tire damage, and we have so many rocks they won't stay sharp for long anyhow.