303 hydraulic fluid ban?

Folks found that all “303” labeled hydraulic fluids are now banned in Georgia? Once it sells out can’t get it anymore. Question is what would be the next best/equivalent to a UTF like 303 for old Ford tractor I can use for all needs (trans/lift/rear) that won’t cost arm&leg?
 
Missouri had the same thing happen about 6 or so month ago. Shortly there after another brand/type of UTF came out in a yellow bucket and pretty much looked the same as the old 303 bucket did. Most of the in my area it runs around $27 for a 4.8 gal bucket but if you catch it on sale it will be around $19. As to what it is as for comparing it to the 303 I do not know but I have 2 full bucket of it out in my shop and seem to work just fine
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:49 08/11/18) Missouri had the same thing happen about 6 or so month ago. Shortly there after another brand/type of UTF came out in a yellow bucket and pretty much looked the same as the old 303 bucket did. Most of the in my area it runs around $27 for a 4.8 gal bucket but if you catch it on sale it will be around $19. As to what it is as for comparing it to the 303 I do not know but I have 2 full bucket of it out in my shop and seem to work just fine

Yeah the lady at Agrisupply said Warrens was shipping them a replacement (not in yet). Said it should be “like” 303 and sell for $33? Guess we will see.
 
They claim the fluid is substandard is the reason for the ban. Is it really? I look for it all the time but Tractor Supply is usually out of it.
 
I never knew what 303 was. Saw some first time ever at a Runnings store a year ago.

I've always bought universal trans hydraulic fluid, don't really know what the 303 is supposed to be? Just a hydraulic oil, not trans?

Paul
 
303 is a John Deere spec trans hydraulic oil from
the 60s . You can still buy 303 oil here . The bucket
now has a warning on it not to use in machines built
after 1975 .Basically 303 is a 50 year old spec oil .
For your application any universal tractor hydraulic
fluid will work should be able to find it at the same
store you get the 303
 
My take on it (this is pure speculation folks) since I have 2ea 1960's tractors and use it, is that Generic 303 and J20C (to name a couple I always looked for
depending on the tractor it was for) appeared in the applicable charts on the rear of the containers. Seems holders of those specs (who sold their own
branded oil) didn't like it and as a result the specs (all of them) have been removed and replaced with wording like....."has been proven in field testing for
this and that bla bla.

WW sells (did a few months ago...maybe still do) a 5 gallon bucket of oil named 303. Main difference between it and today's UTF is additives for wet brake
chatter prevention and hydros....whatever that means in terms of additives. Reading farm site comments, both seem to be fluid sensitive, requiring current
oil specs.

Gets to be a catch 22 when you figure what some branded oils cost and the amount required in servicing the sump, when you decide to deviate from OEM
sold and recommended oils (which they have tested and approved...not the after market one you want to buy), can be a real crap shoot.
 
As far as the Mo ban on 303 the guy at Orschelens told me same oil, different label. It dosent have anything about 303 on label. They had it for 20.00 for 5 gal bucket, I got 2.
 
U+201A, 0x82, ?, ‚, %E2 %80 %9A, U+00C2, 0xC2, ?, Â, %C3 %82. U+0192, 0x83, ?, ?', %C6 %92, U+00C3, 0xC3, ?, Ã, %C3
%83. U+201E, 0x84, ?, „ ...

!
 

This is the paper work my oil supplier had on file.

21322.jpg
21323.jpg
 
Folks I am no expert. Retired military living the good life as sheriff’s deputy on a piece of land with family. Got a few horses and love to deer hunt. So mostly what I’m doing is “playing” with my old tractor mowing pastures, hunting spots, pulling trees out for firewood, tinkering, etc. Love working on and using my dinky little tractor. I get it the specs on true 303 oil is “out of date” for modern tractors. Yes folks should read label before putting it in a modern 30k-100k dollar tractor. Know the limitation/restrictions of the fluid. If folks are putting out bad oil yes stop them. However if it does what the label says seems politics and big business just trying to make simple man buy higher price oil. I’m sure I’m making big deal out of nothing just ircks me when folks mess with something that’s not broke!
 
(quoted from post at 23:43:03 08/11/18) Folks found that all “303” labeled hydraulic fluids are now banned in Georgia? Once it sells out can’t get it anymore. Question is what would be the next best/equivalent to a UTF like 303 for old Ford tractor I can use for all needs (trans/lift/rear) that won’t cost arm&leg?

303 has been dropped because cheapskates have been using that under spec oil in new equipment . Then whining and suing .
Too bad that so few people can or will read the instructions and specifications .
Purchase the Hy-Gard, high grade oil is just a cost of doing business . Cheap oil costs even more .
 
The original 303 spec called for sperm whale oil to have better viscosity performance.

And since the replacement oil is NOT sperm whale oil, its considered false advertising.

The oil being sold "meets" the performance of 303 oil and will need to be re-labeled to meet the false advertising. Spermwhale oil has been outlawed under international treaties. And newer oil refining has produced superior oils than what was available in the 1960's when these specs came out. Some companies have alreadly re-labled their containers and are already back on the market. Also 303 is a john deere spec and they may have been part of the complaint or not.
 
Every pail of the yellow bucket 303 I've seen has some darker brown crap in the bottom of the pail. Never seen that in a better quality oil. Hard to believe Mother Deere has let anyone use the 303 labeling all these years.
 
(quoted from post at 08folks I appreciate all the input and knowledge on the subject. Got another question if I go to the higher grade “premium” oil, will I need to drain the old stuff out first or just add as needed? My biggest issue is I got a really slow leak coming from trans (have to add a little every few weeks/months depending on use). Yes need to break in half and replace seals and such but time/money/special tools/knowledge preventing that right now. So bottom line adding a little hydraulic fluid now and then is my best option. Hopefully come winter I can just fix the damn leak!
 
I have never had a problem with mixing different oil. Mane thing is that what ever oil you use has the spec your tractor needs
 
I wouldn't use any oil that cost $33 full price and $19 on sale for 5 gal. That's insanely low, and to think the quality will be anywhere near the same as a $70
oil is foolish. Usually, I run 821XL AGCO oil because it's the cheapest. Sometimes I will run Hy-Tran Ultraction as well. Neither one scares me, considering that
I'm putting in in older Allis tractors, and it's recommended for CVT transmissions.
 
try and find mother deeres refinery---you are every salesmans dream simply raise the price to increase better performance
 
(quoted from post at 13:40:00 08/12/18) I wouldn't use any oil that cost $33 full price and $19 on sale for 5 gal. That's insanely low, and to think the quality will be anywhere near the same as a $70
oil is foolish. Usually, I run 821XL AGCO oil because it's the cheapest. Sometimes I will run Hy-Tran Ultraction as well. Neither one scares me, considering that
I'm putting in in older Allis tractors, and it's recommended for CVT transmissions.



I can get 5 gallons of Shell Rotella for $60 at a box store, or for $85 for 5 gallons at a Shell distributor? The same is for batteries, most of them are the exact same battery, but depending on what brand (a simple decal) can double the price of the exact same battery.
 

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