? About foaming the inside of machine shed roof

Machine shed roof is about 35 years old and was secured with nails. We have pulled all the loose nails and replaced them with screws. Still have a few leaks. Would having foam sprayed on the inside be a wise move to stop any leaks and maybe eliminate condensation? Hope somebody here has had some experience with this. Sure would be easier on my tractors.
 
Gordy Foam works well on new builds but on the old metal no going to hold too well . Might be cheaper to pull the metal and put the micro foil down then new roof. No leaks and less sweat.
 
The spray foam on the bottom will actually trap the water and cause rust on the metal roof and rotting on the wood frame. Neighbor's roof is spray foamed on the outside. He has a heated shop in half of it. Seems to work for him. So I would seal the outside over trying to seal from the inside.
 
More than likely the leaks are where the metal sheets overlap each other. If you are going to use foam lift up the sheet at the seams and inject some expansion foam and lay the sheet back down and screw it down.
 
Our ambulance garage was 20 year old pole building. Roof was foamed when new and again when remodeled for ambulance use. Roof leaks were nearly impossible to locate, Water runs on the foam and drips here but will be leaking over there. Constant problem locating leaks.
 
Well guys, that's what I needed to know. Thanks for the help!! I guess I'll bite the bullet someday and put on a new screwed down roof. Hate fixes that don't work.
 
jd, we've got a church annex and an adult refreshment establishment foamed up on top of the roof in our little town, and working (so far) to keep the rain out, from what I hear. Dunno what the life of that stuff is in the direct sun, think that is an "off label" use, and wonder how long it will last???

NO pea rock, no UV resistant paint, no NOTHING protecting it, just the $$$$$$$ spray-on urethane slowly aging, darkening in color and (possibly) deteriorating.
 
I had a Wicks shed built. The roof metal has a fiber bonded to it. The theory is, the fiber will absorb the condensation and hold it until conditions change and the condensation evaporates.
No problems yet, but the overhead doors didn't get installed until this month and conditions for condensation may not have occurred.
If you decide to replace he roof, you may consider the Wicks roof material to reduce condensation.
I really don't expect total elimination of condensation. It seems like a reasonable theory to minimize condensation though.
 
I had the same problem but the roof steel was real good yet so I went and pulled every nail and replaced with screws. Pulling the nails you have to be careful not to make the hole bigger or smash the steel out of shape. Mine was fairly easy as the nails had been loose for a while and the wood had rotted a little around them I put screws toward an inch longer and got a good bite in the bottom of the hole got the many leaky spots down to only one so I called successful. I made a special tool to pull the nails that made it easier to not rush the rib on the steel while pulling the nails, I'll post a pic later when I get to the shop.
 
Assuming that you did use roofing screws with the little gasket-thingy on them.

Would it work to back-out the screws... and shoot a dab of tar or silicone around the hole, then tighten down the screws again?
 
Where are the screws?
i.e. on the overlap ridge?
on the flat near the overlap?

Did they lay down some butyl tape at the overlap or just screws only?

A metal roof with external fasteners should have butyl tape sealing the overlap. Even if the fasteners are not thru the ridge of overlap.
Butyl tape eliminates wind blown rain leaks and leaks from ice dams.
They also make roofing screws with oversized washer with edpm rubber, 5/8" o.d. washer.
Or a nice dab or roofing tar over each screw currently installed.
 

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