What a day.

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Spent 4 hours trying to break bead
on 2 rear tires. Neighbor came
over and after we punched a hole
in the side wall using a jack
between 2 trees, drove on it with
another tractor and a F-250 and
still didn't bust it loose, we got
the saws all! Yes I admit we cut
the tires off the rims!! Then it
took 2 hours to cut all the steel
belts in bead to get em off. Never
seen anything stuck that bad.
Lucky the rims look good. I ran a
wire wheel around em for an hour
and will coat em with flex seal or
similar product. I hope the new
tires go on easier.......
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They will. Been there done that the hard part is done Use some dish soap on the beads of the new tires and they will go right on
 
You may consider using a flap disc on a 4 1/2 inch grinder before your painting. It will give you a much smoother finish than the wire wheel left you. At least that is my experience.
 

I have done that too. I worked at it for a little while and then called a friend who I thought may have been involved in this sort of a job. He Told me to cut the tires off with my Sawz-all and then cut the bead with a cold chisel. It took me about a half hour after talking to him. I believe that I used a flap wheel to clean up.
 
rim cleaned up pretty well, considering what it has been through. I have used a sawzall before on some toughies. usually, my scoop tractor will break the bead down (or else I call the tire guy).
 
Your first mistake was taking the wheels off the tractor. Just use splitting wedges and drive them in between the rim and the bead of the tire.
 
I concur with leaving the wheels on the tractor. Much easier and faster, and splitting wedge works well, and a slide hammer bead breaker works even better.
Loren
 
You either have money or time. Someone once told me life was like a poop sandwich, the more money you have the less poop you had to eat. I think Im going to use POR15 on my rims, that stuff is tough. The rims have to be rusty for it to stick.
 
A while back, I tried to dismount an F150 spare tire and mount a better used one. (Most tire stores wouldn't do it for liability reasons.) Worked on it for about an hr, driving a truck up on it, beating on it, etc. Called a small local repair shop, guy said "$15, bring it on over". The machine darn near stalled several times trying to get it off. Spent about 1/2 hr trying to get it off. He said it was the worst dismount he's ever seen. When he mounted the used tire, the bead just did not want to seat. He said "block your ears" when he thought it was close. It was the loudest "pop" I'd ever heard seating a tire, even with my hands over my ears. Seems like the building shook. I gave him $20. It amazes me to hear guys on here talk about working on tires, they make it sound easy.
 
Use rlap discs on that outer bead. Then gather up all your half empty rattle cans of paint and give the outer lip a good 4 coats of enamel.
May as well paint the entire outside of the wheel as long as the tires are off.
 
(quoted from post at 05:43:18 07/15/18) Would a phosphoric acid "rust stop" be a good idea on the inside of the rims?

Applying any paint or bed liner or any coating without first giving it a good rust converter treatment is pointless. My tire shop would remove the two tires for $40.00 after I spend an hour loading them up and taking them there and back. Too Long!
 
Hey showcrop, " rust converter
treatment". What is it? Where do I
get it? Spray on? I was
fixin'to go spray flex seal on em
 
When you put the new tire back on, don't use anything with water unless you don't care if your rims rust again. I use grease or if the rim is pitted, I use clear house silicone. The silicone is very slick, and the beads slide on easily. I use starting fluid to seat stubborn tires.
 
I use rustoleum rusty metal primer all the time. Very pleased with it. I buy 1" & 2" paint brushes from harbor freight by the box and throw them away after use.
 
(quoted from post at 12:18:14 07/15/18) Hey showcrop, " rust converter
treatment". What is it? Where do I
get it? Spray on? I was
fixin'to go spray flex seal on em

I have used rustoleum rusty metal primer on stuff that doesn't matter. It works better than some paints. You can get phosphoric acid rust converter at any hardware store or any automotive store. I used to use the aerosol but I decided after awhile that it wasn't working well enough. I like it watery thin. I use Rust Mort by SEM. you get it at auto parts stores that carry paint. You put it on fairly liberally and keep brushing it around keeping the surface wet for 15 minutes. then let it dry and wash off any residue with water. If I am doing something that matters I dry the water off with alcohol or final prep.
 

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