Crackcase oil transmission oil

Rkbigrich1

New User
What type and weight oil for crankcase and transmission? Typical operating temps would be 90 degrees down to 32. Also I’ve heard talk that only non detergent oil should be used? Where can it be obtained? I thought almost all oil was detergent type? As always thanks in advance for the help.
 
In engine, I would run a 15W-40 Rotella or Delvac Diesel oil.

Not sure on transmission, do not know if it needs to be 134 compatible.
 
for engine give it some 10-40 , 10-30 would do also. most likely has a worn engine so thicker is better.and if running in steady hot weather use 20-50.
80-90 gear lube is good for trans. you dont want non detergent oil, plus its obsolete.
 
Use detergent 10-40 oil in engine.When it was new detergent or multi weight were not avaible and some people just could not accept the new oil was better and that is why the myth still exists that you should only use a single weight non detergent oil. My 44 2N engine is same as your engine and it has had nothing except the multi weight detergent for as long as I can remember and I am now 74.
 
You didn't say on what. Non-detergent oil was here before detergent. If you ever opened up an engine that lived on the stuff you'd see the plague that
it was. Detergent solved that problem. Rumors have abounded that if you have one of those engines and put detergent oil in them they will start
burning oil. Baloney. If you see the detergent oil getting dirty, it's picking up combustion byproducts and oil degradation products that used to stay in
the engine. Over time, detergent oil can clean up a gunked up engine but snake oil additives can aid in the process of the cleanup. Some of these
loose contaminants come out the exhaust pipe and look like you have engine problems but that isn't necessarily the case.

Used to be that single grade motor oil was all that you could buy. Back in the 50's multiviscosity came out and apparently it's is preferred judging by
the oil sitting on wally worlds shelves...... and they stock what sells in the season it sells.

Used to be you had oil for gears and oil for hydraulics. Nowadays farm equipment uses common sumps. Hydraulic oil (10-30 sort of viscosity) now has
additives to prevent gear wear, foaming, and all that so older tractors, like my '63 Ford 2000 that used to use 90w oil in the tranny and diff, with
hydraulic oil in the hydraulic sump, can use transmission/hydraulic oil (JD 303 spec. for a popular number) in all 3.

Newer equipment that has added wet brake squealing and hydrostatic steering and transmission requirements use a different oil with different additives
usually covered by the JD J20C spec.

(Ref: My opinion and 60+ years of doing my own mechanicing)
 
Yeah Texasmark1, but there is also an impressive selection of cigarettes on the shelves at just about every convenience store, and that one checkout aisle in Walmart. Because something is on the shelves and "preferred" does not mean it is healthy or beneficial in its intended application.

The real technical concern about using detergent oil in an engine that has never seen any is the detergent loosening up the massive gobs of sludge accumulated in every nook and cranny. It's okay if it does it gradually, but when it comes loose in large enough quantity, and gets stuck in the pickup screen, it can starve the engine of oil.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:46 07/11/18) Yeah Texasmark1, but there is also an impressive selection of cigarettes on the shelves at just about every convenience store, and that one checkout aisle in Walmart. Because something is on the shelves and "preferred" does not mean it is healthy or beneficial in its intended application.

The real technical concern about using detergent oil in an engine that has never seen any is the detergent loosening up the massive gobs of sludge accumulated in every nook and cranny. It's okay if it does it gradually, but when it comes loose in large enough quantity, and gets stuck in the pickup screen, it can starve the engine of oil.

The extreme base additives to fight acids also have the effect of slowly cleaning the engine and are designed to keep dirt and soot in suspension and not let it reclump. That is why everyone is trying to recommend the 15w-40 "hd" gas and diesel oils. There is nothing to make clumps turn loose that are not already loose. If the pickup screen is already clogged you are in trouble no matter what oil you use. HD oils may actually SLOWLY clean the screen.
 
. Straight weight 50 motor oil is in the viscosity range between sae 90 and sae140 gear oil. Yellow metal friendly and has corrosion inhibitors .
 
Most any good motor oil will work just fine in your 8N Detergent type by the way. For the transmission/hyd/rear end a UTF that meets the Ford 134D spec is ok. Or a mineral based GL-1 90W which is what was used in them when new
 
Don't put non-detergent oil in an engine. If the engine is so crudded up that large chunks of it might break free using non-detergent oil and adding to the crud isn't making the situation any better.


10W30, 10W40 or 15W40 is what I would use in an 8N depending on the condition of the engine. The "looser" and more worn the heavier the weight of oil I would use.
 
what are the odds that that engine has never seen non detergent oil.ZERO! Go ahead and use the HD oils and clean it up a little. Just be sure and change it when it looks dirty to you.
 
I recently bought a 1988 Ford 3910, about 50 hp diesel.....900 proven actual hours. When I pulled the dipstick while kicking the tires prior to the purchase, it was typical diesel black.

First thing I did when I got it home was warm it up good and change the oil and filter. While the plug was out I took a screwdriver and scraped the sludge which had accumulated on the bottom of the oil pan.....seemed to be about ?" thick.

Next day it was out in the field working hard for a couple of hours. Got it back to the shop and the oil was already dirty. When I finish haying it and the filter will get changed again. Yepper, detergents in the oil cleaning up sludge from sitting with so few hours for so many years, even with detergent oil being used.

If I recall correctly, even though it has wet brakes I think it says the main sump uses 134 A,B......(Ref I&T Manual #41) I can verify that if it's that big of a deal. I drained the tranny and main sump also after the purchase and in went JD 303.......that's usually listed where AB is listed on fluid container application charts.
 

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