Egg Preserver

I talked with a guy today about fixing water leaks in a tractor motor. He claimed years ago there was a product to put on eggs in the shell to make them last longer. He said to warm the water up in the tractor and put this in and circulate. Then let it cool and drain the water. Claimed it would work. Might be better than JB weld. He didn't know if it was still available today. I am going to google it.

water glass egg preserver

Sodium Silicate,I bought it at the local drug store and it works good.I put it in a Minneapolis Moline R about 15 years ago and still no leak.You drain and flush out the system of any antifreeze residue,make sure you remove thermostat if it has one.Premix the whole quart in a 5 gallon bucket how ever the amount the tractor holds,then fill it up,run the engine for at least 30 minutes you may have to cover the radiator to get it warm.Drain the system when it cools down enough but drain it in a container because when cools it turns to glass.I let mine set for 3 or 4 days to make sure the system was completely dried out.Put thermostat back in fill it up and your good to go.

Doomsday preppers use it on their eggs. Eggs stored in a cabinet good for 9 months.

"fixing water leaks in a tractor motor"

Leaks can be "fixed" but not permanently by "water glass" or "snake oil" products.

If you have a leak, why not properly repair it?

Long before refridgeration Dad stored our eggs in large crocks full of "water glass".
Jim b

About 1980 that stuff stoped the water leak in our can milk coler. Father-in-law was a pharamist and knew about it. Was working when we quit milking.

You want to make darned sure it doesn't get in the oil! Wikipedia has all the info you ever want to know about it, here is an except from there:

Automotive repair
Sodium silicate is also used currently as an exhaust system joint and crack sealer for repairing mufflers, resonators, tailpipes, and other exhaust components, with and without fiberglass reinforcing tapes. In this application, the sodium silicate (60–70%) is typically mixed with kaolin (40-30%), an aluminium silicate mineral, to make the sodium silicate "glued" joint opaque. The sodium silicate, however, is the high-temperature adhesive; the kaolin serves simply as a compatible high-temperature coloring agent. Some of these repair compounds also contain glass fibres to enhance their gap-filling abilities and reduce brittleness.

Sodium silicate can be used to fill gaps within the head gasket. Commonly used on aluminum alloy cylinder heads, which are sensitive to thermally induced surface deflection. This can be caused by many things including head-bolt stretching, deficient coolant delivery, high cylinder head pressure, overheating, etc.

"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105°C (212-221°F), sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810°C (1,490°F).

A sodium silicate repair can last two years or longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly. This repair only works when the sodium silicate reaches its "conversion" temperature at 100–105°C. Contamination of engine oil is a serious possibility in situations in which a coolant-to-oil leak is present. Sodium silicate (glass particulate) contamination of lubricants is detrimental to their function.

Sodium silicate solution is used to inexpensively, quickly, and permanently disable automobile engines. Running an engine with about 2 liters of a sodium silicate solution instead of motor oil causes the solution to precipitate, catastrophically damaging the engine's bearings and pistons within a few minutes.[21] In the United States, this procedure was used to comply with requirements of the Car Allowance Rebate System (CARS) program.[21][22]

(quoted from post at 01:14:36 06/17/18) "fixing water leaks in a tractor motor"

Leaks can be "fixed" but not permanently by "water glass" or "snake oil" products.

If you have a leak, why not properly repair it?

Click to expand...

Regarding your question of why not properly repair it got me thinking about an old truck I aquired for less than scrap value.

An old Chevy 3-ton, I used it to haul bales in off the field, it had an appetite for coolant, it never left a puddle, nothing in the oil nor could you detect anything in the exhaust.
Used it for 2 weeks out of the year like that for 5 years, it consistently would need a gallon of water added each day.

Considering that the cab was rusted out with plywood for floorboards, tires were all bald, no brakes or lights and the engine was old and tired it would not have made sense to spend a nickel on it let alone fix it properly.

Sometimes a person gets by with what they got until they can afford better.
Once the clutch finally gave up the old heap of rust was parked for good and it was replaced with something better.
When something is severely worn out, sees limited use and never leaves the property, so long as it can get the job done run her till she blows sometimes simply makes the most sense.

In a perfect world there would be no need for duct tape, baling wire, JB weld etc. But I am not holding my breath expecting that day to ever come.