Update On Baler!

So! I read everyones advice, talked to a few local guys, and read my book about 7 more times..

I chose a set of bill hooks out of one of my parts balers to be in better condition, I filed them according to the book, and reinstalled them on my baler. We did a few trial runs, and it was still hanging up sometimes. SO! I check wiper arm clearance. . . How does 1/2" sound?? ha ha ha!

Hammer came out, and some "adjustments" were made, I put them to where they just barely start to try to touch as they are passing the tip of the bill hook. I also took a flat file to the twin knifes while I was in there, put a nice sharp edge on them (just ask my finger. . . . )

Borrow some hay bales from the neighbor, and started running hay through it. Tied 23 bales perfectly, never missed a knot! I was having some issues with banana bales, and density was quite there, but I am pretty sure that is all because of hand feeding flakes at a time. There wasn't nearly as much hay going through the baler as there should have been.

Anyways, I think I have it fixed! I adjusted a couple of chains, and replaced a broke feeder fork. Greased everything good, and I believe I am ready to go! I'll report back in July! Thanks guys!

You are a smarter man than me, never have figured a baler out, good job.

Good job, we'll wait for more reports. Ron MN

Bryce,

If I recall correctly, you have a New Holland 68 - as do I.

With regards to banana bales couple of things to check.

1. Make sure your hay dog springs are not broken or missing
2. Feed the windrow to the plunger side of the baler.
3. Check your aluminum feeding tines. They wear down several inches over time - unnoticed. New tines measured from top to bottom are around 13 3/4 inches long. If your feeder tines are wore short, you won?t solve the banana bale problem as not enough hay is pushed into the bale chamber.
4. Counter intuitive, but standing at the rear of the baler looking towards the tractor, if your bales are banana shaped to the left, move your feeder tines to the right as per the manual.
5. Make sure your plunger knife is sharp and the stationary has a nice square edge and the knife to stationary clearance is close - I think the manual calls for 1/32 inch clearance.
6. Run the baler full out at 540 PTO and with all the above, you should make bricks as good as any other baler.

Good luck,
Bill

Bryce, Bill VA has all theanswers, when my NH 269 was making banana bales, I found the plunger knifes dull with much much too much clearance. I shimmed the stationary blade to 1/16 and banana bales are never a problem. gobble

I wouldn't be concerned with banana bles whewn hand feeding flakes of hay, the hay doesn't feed into the chamber even so banana bales common. sounds like you got the tying problem worked out though

You have a lot of intriguing info there!

My baler is an NH68, and my bales are shaped to the left like you are saying... So, less hay in the plunger side of the bale.

I've never thought to measure feeder tines, but I should, my feeder tines seem to be WAY close to the plunger, but I've always just left them along? Obvisually one is like in the middle, but the one tine that goes part way into the chamber is adjusted as close as it can?

I never have messed with the hay knife either, when I very first got it, and old timer, buddy of mine (who I consider to be the god of balers) reached in there and said, well, hay knife feels really good!

I'll check all that stuff out. I appreciate the info!

To get more hay to the left side of the baler, the feeder tines need to move right. Counterintuitive, but being further to the right allows the left most feeder time to grab a larger chunk of hay and deliver it into the bale chamber.

If you search YT with ?NH68? you will find my refurb effort on my New Holland 68. Also, there use to be a guy that did a great refurb on the 68. Search for KellyC - he was a Farmall guy too, you?ll like his posts. He just kind of disappeared.

Bill