Hyd valve screeching in neutral??

So got the 3pt hooked up hyd plummed but now the hyd valve screeches when the lever is in center( neutral) postion. Is worse when I first start the tractor but after I run the 3pt lift cylinders through a couple of complete retract-extend cycles it goes away until the next time I start the tractor. I should also note that after a couple of cycles the speed of both raising and lowering greatly increases. I have not ran the tractor more than 10 minutes since adding 3 pt. Sticky valve? Air in system? Hyd lift cylinders are one way. This is on a Farmall 350.
Thoughts?
Thanks, Sod Buster
 
The closed center valve was my first thought,but if the noise goes away after a few cycles,that doesn't make sense. There almost has to be something restricting the return flow. It lowers OK? Ya,I guess you said it get's faster after a few cycles. With a one way cylinder,the return oil has to be going back through the same return line that the oil flows through anyway doesn't it? I wish I could see the valve. It just sounds like something isn't plumbed quite right,but the noise going away has me stumped.

Is this a new valve? Did you use pipe dope tape on any hoses or anything? I was wondering if a little thread of it got in an o-ring in the valve or something?
 
Factory valve or add-on valve? Any fast heat build-up in the system or hot spots on the valve or at the system's pressure relief?
 
I have a 350 also. If I can remember correctly up just under the throttle lever is an opening which if you look inside there is a post sticking up. it has flats on it. I think My dad move it such that the valves would change to open center to closed center. Of course I may be dreaming too. I was just a little squirt then. Maybe yours is some where's in between the open or closed positions. Somebody tell me if I dreaming.
 
I am using the factory valves. I tried turning that valve for one or two way hyd. Its makes little to no difference. Cylinders are hooked to tractor using rear quick coupler. Did not use teflon tape.
 
Time to put a gauge in. There is a test port on left hand side of the regulator valve assembly. That port will show you what pressure the system is operating on and in neutral it should be well below 100 psi. With a gauge you will know two things. If you have a problem and when you make changes it will show you if it cures the problem. In neutral, no hook up you added should affect anything.
 
UPDATE: screwed with it some more today. The valve does not want to return to center on the one side. Lower works fine but raise will sit where you put it until the end of stroke "snaps" it back or you pull it back. It acts as though it has a detent except a detent *should hold itself all the way open. Or close. this valve will stay barely open all the way or any postion in between. Other side of valve works fine. Thinking internals of valve are sticky/worn. ???
Sod Buster
 

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