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weed kiiller

B

big daddy

Member
I was wonder how much weed and grass killer to use per gallon of water for grass and weed control on a fence line, the product I am using is MAKAZE
 
Sounds like you didn't get any info with the herbicide when you picked it up? Here's 70 pages of information including what you need somewhere in there ..... note the table of contents and then scroll down. I believe it is the same category of herbicide as is Roundup. Google is a guy's friend.
Makaze 101 booklet
 
If its a generic round up unless you want black dirt I have found round up to be a very poor fencerow spray, it kills most everything. I think it works better to use something that kills the broadleaf weeds and leaves the grass alone or you end up with a lot of bad fast growing broadleaves in there place. And its hard to get the grasses reestablished. Use something like a 2-4D product or Graze-On I believe is what I use.
 
I'm sure you appreciate 70 pages of gobbleydegook.

Most instructions are very vague on hand held sprayers and it is difficult to translate 2 pints per acre into ounces per gallon.

I've been successful with 8 ounces per gallon of 41% glyphosphate. I don't know what your product is.

If you spray sparingly right under the fence you'll get good results with grasses growing back. Those that drench it like it won't work anyway (my son in law) get bare spots. Just a light spray and you get regrowth before the dead material is rotted away the next year.

2-4, D doesn't do much for a fence row because it is mainly grass you are trying to control anyway,
 
Andy, I see your point with your 70-pages comment so I won't debate that with you (but the answer is in there somewhere). On the other hand,
I prefer getting advice on topics like medical conditions, divorce problems, land use and disputes, law and bylaw enforcement issues, and so
on from a source that is reliable and accurate. How much herbicide to mix is sort of like asking how long is a piece of string in a way.
If everyone was answering that in a way that you did (actual ounces per gallon), I would bet the answers could be as varied as the string
length. And surely there must be other factors involved as well I think.
 
Yup, you're 100% correct T-F ..... and that was my expert opinion. So far I see a 5% mix reply and an 8% reply. Quite a variation, only 3% using simple math but a 60% increase with the stronger mix compared to the weaker one. Which of those two would you use if you were spraying?
 
I'd be more concerned with getting too much water in it than not enough. It doesn't take more than a few drops on a plant to kill it. You don't have to soak it until it's dripping off.
 
Makaze is just generic Roundup. I've always mixed 2 oz. per gallon for spot spraying, and have always had a complete kill. 5 or 8 oz. is overkill (pun intended), IMHO.
 
In the pesticide applicators manual,it does tell you how to calibrate a hand held sprayer and mix the proper amount of pesticide. It's a long drawn out process though and would take a long time to write here. It involves measuring out a given amount of water in the sprayer,measuring a certain area,then spraying that area and seeing how much water it takes to cover that area,then mixing the amount of herbicide that the label says you need to use on that given area.

For somebody to get a general idea by asking on here,it's just going to be precision guesswork.
 
You're being awfully generous with the word "Poison". VERY few pesticides are poison. Makaze would only have the word Caution on the label.

CAUTION. This means that the product is slightly toxic orally, dermally, or through inhalation, or it causes slight eye irritation.

WARNING. This means that the product is moderately toxic either orally, dermally, or through inhalation, or it causes moderate eye and skin irritation. AVISO, the Spanish word for WARNING, must also appear on the label.

DANGER. This means that the product is highly toxic by at least one route of entry into the body. Products with this Signal Word can cause severe eye damage or skin irritation. PELIGRO, the Spanish word for DANGER must also appear on the label.

DANGER ?POISON. These words are always accompanied by a skull and crossbones symbol (Figure 2). This means that the product is highly toxic by any route of entry into the body. These products can cause death in very low doses. PELIGRO, the Spanish word for DANGER must also appear on the label. ?Poison? must be in red letters.
 
If you use 22OZ per 20 gallon of water just divide it down. 11oz per 10 gallon and so forth, works out to about 2.75 oz per 2.5 gallon of water. If you want to mix a smaller amount you could divide it out more or mix that much then just use what you need from there and save the rest for later.
This is based off 20 gallon per acre of water with a 22once per acre application rate. Now depending on you active ingredient percentage you might need to adjust it some. For most of the 40to 45 percent product this would be fine. If you get the 36 or 50 percent just adjust for the percentage.
 
Just because something will control a target pest for a short period of time before it biodegrades,doesn't mean that it poses any threat to non target organisms though. I'm sure your argument works on your target customers,but it doesn't work on everybody.
 
Biodegradable is a very iffy term.Ever heard of 'matter cannot be created or destroyed'? There is no way to predict what elements something may come in contact with and what compounds might be
formed.
 
Here's what I would do if I was spraying tomorrow with this stuff. Since the suggestions here have ranged from approximately 1 oz per gallon (Caterpillar Guy above) all the way up to 8 oz per gallon in another post (which someone has pooh-pooh'd), I would get on the phone first thing tomorrow morning (Monday) and call the manufacturer and go from there. I'm sure you'd get a reasonably accurate answer. That was my suggestion in the first place I believe. Here's the contact information that I would use ....

LOVELAND PRODUCTS
3005 Rocky Mountain Ave
Loveland, CO 80538
(970) 685-3300
 
(quoted from post at 06:02:07 04/22/18) Andy, I see your point with your 70-pages comment so I won't debate that with you (but the answer is in there somewhere). On the other hand,
I prefer getting advice on topics like medical conditions, divorce problems, land use and disputes, law and bylaw enforcement issues, and so
on from a source that is reliable and accurate. How much herbicide to mix is sort of like asking how long is a piece of string in a way.
If everyone was answering that in a way that you did (actual ounces per gallon), I would bet the answers could be as varied as the string
length. And surely there must be other factors involved as well I think.
Click to expand...

2X
 

Like hydro guy says, understand that once you start down this road you will have to be back every 3-4 weeks to kill the broadleaf weeds.
 
I'll tell you exactly what they would tell you. They would tell you to calibrate your sprayer and use the proper amount of product for the area that you're covering. The amount of water over a given area doesn't matter at all. It's the amount of product over an area that you have to know. The water is just the carrier of that product.
Like Caterpillar Guy,I use one quart of Makaze per acre and 20 gallons or water. But if my sprayer was calibrated to use 10 gallons per acre,I'd have to mix one quart per 10 gallons of water in the tank,or 1 quart per 50 gallons of water if the sprayer was calibrated to apply 50 gallons per acre.
Everybody wants to do this mixing process in reverse.
 
So it seems that the actual calculations are for getting a certain amount of herbicide applied to a certain surface area of field application, and that's what their specs will tell you via the printed info with the product or by phone. Water is the carrier and a calibrated spray unit does the job and when you get finished, the tank should be dry if everything was measured and set up correctly. For a fence line situation, I guess most of us feel more comfortable with an oz per gallon and go from there. It might happen to be spot on the recommended application (by fluke) or it might be miles off being correct. Obviously, the manufacturer isn't thinking of a guy wiping out a few unwanted weeds or grasses in a limited area. That they leave up to the individual I guess.
 
That's what you get with a general use herbicide like glyphosate vs one that's restricted use and can only be used by a certified applicator. Anybody and their brother can walk in to a hardware or box store,buy all they want to and misuse it in any way. The label on a pesticide package is a legal document and it's illegal to use a pesticide in a way that isn't specified on the label,but if you aren't certified,you don't know that and aren't going to gave a rats rear end.
 
Well I did something we should never do!!! I looked on the label. For hand held applications, looking at the most common types of weeds/grass you would find in most fence lines, the recommended rate is 2%. Then just lightly wet the plant, this is not soaking it until it runs off. Too much water on the plant actually makes the chemical not work as well.

This is in line with what I usually do when using a Glyphosate product, that is using a 2-3% solution. I would also include the same rate of 2-4D in your mix. This will get a lot of broad leaf plants that Glyphosate does not control very well. Some of the common ones are most vines. Where the 2-4D works well on them.

Use a surfactant/crop oil too. This can be simple Dish soap. You just need to break the surface tension of the water.
 
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