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Engine Trouble

C

CK MO

New User
Working on a MF 165, Perkins gas engine, starts up fine and after about a minute it starts fluttering, when I pull off the number 2 plug wire it seems not to change anything. Seem to have a good fuel supply, have rebuilt one carb and switched out to another, changed the points, cap, rotor, and plugs and moved plugs and the wires and it doesn't move the problem. Today pulled valve cover and checked the rocker arms and valve train all seems fine, compression on that cylinder is down about 8-10 psi from the other 3 cylinders and the plug on that cylinder was fouled badly prior to changing the plugs as if that cylinder has not been firing for some time. Bought at an auction so no history at all. Has me scratching my head, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
CK
 
The question you will soon be getting. What sparkplugs do you have. Forget Champion. Someone will give you the number for Autolte plugs. Would be my guess.
 
never saw a sparkplug brand solve a problem.lol. so... what is the compression test of all cyl's.?? everyone is scared to post actual results , never hardly ever see a post and the guy says yes i checked compression and it is... .that is the most important step to do and post. do you have good fire going to the plug? how was compression test done? need 5 puff's per cyl. and will see the first 2 puffs pretty well top out. everyone is gung hoe on wot but as long as throttle is off idle its not going to make one iota of a difference.
 
Champion typically runs a heat range colder than most. Running a colder range does tend to lend to fouling out. If your running an old Chrysler product, pre '80, then Champ plugs are the best. I have spun in a few thousand plugs and that is just what I have found.
 
Run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil + if neg ground. Sometimes resistance in the switch or the wiring will cause a voltage drop to the coil as it gets hot. It seems one cylinder is always the first to quit as feed voltage lowers. Double check the rotor direction and firing order. If you can get a dwell meter see if it is stable, maybe a worn bushing or lobe in dist.
 
Leaking head gasket on #2 ?
Is the plug oil fouled? Or is the
plug getting wet from antifreeze?
Or is the engine carbonedb
 
The original plug was fouled with what would appear to be an oily substance, the new plug comes out clean each time.

Thanks for the help
 
I have tried it with a jumper wire from the battery to coil and no difference, tried a different coil, and after replacing points and condenser with no change I put on a new electronic ign kit with the same result.

Thanks for the help
 
The compression test was done with the throttle wide open, choke open and even took off the air filter hose. Results were 1. 146, 2. 135,
3. 145, 4. 144. The motor had been run the day prior but I did not put any oil in the cylinders.

Thanks
 
I see all the other replies and am wondering, you've checked a lot of things but no one has said anything about the plug wires. Just a thought, Keith
 
I have not changed them out as they appear to be recently replace and in very good shape, but have changed 2-3 trying to move the miss and there is no change, number 2 cylinder acts like it stops getting fuel/air

Thanks
 
Make sure the plug is not fouled. It shouldnt be black in color. Maybe a vacuum leak on the #2 manifold?
 
Burned valve.

They act just like you said. Runs fine at first, then after a couple of minutes, the cylinder stops firing. By the time you get the compression tester on it, it's cooled down and tests fine.
 
Have you checked for a vacuum leak?

If you can get a vacuum gauge, it will help with diagnoses.

The compression numbers look good. Possibly that cylinder is a little low from not firing, gas washing down some of the oil. You could try again with some oil to prove or disprove.

A cylinder leak down test would also help pinpoint the loss, but again, the reading is still high enough to fire.

When you looked at the valve train, did you check the valve lash? Could be right on the edge, when the valve heats up the gap closes causing poor idle.

As for the fouled plug, try switching it with another cylinder, see if the problem follows the plug. I doubt it will.
 
there is no way it can seat and hold compression. might get 30-40 lbs all depends how long the valve was run while burnt. running tight valves causes them to burn. the exhuast gets by the seat and valve face and burns a hole in the valve face. you can even hear it when listening to the exhuast pipe, and also will suck your hand down.
 
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