Anyone ever solder a rim?

Ultradog MN · Mar 21, 2018

I brought my 13x38 rims to the sandblaster on Monday. I spent a couple of hours on them with a needle scaler first. They are rather rusted in a few areas but I think worth saving. I know there will be some holes in them though.
I've patched rims before - cut out bad sections and welded in pieces from another rim, made new holes for the valve stem, etc but I dont expect to need that on these.
And I've soldered numerous gas tanks that were rusted through and had good luck with it.
I could braze the holes but am just wondering how well solder would work.
Anyone ever done it?
It seems it might be easier and cheaper than brazing.
What does the brain trust say?
Thanks.
PS, I do know about JB Weld or pucky or epoxies but would rather weld, braze or solder my stuff.

caterpillar guy · Mar 21, 2018

If it is pitted badly the key as you already know will be getting it clean enough for the solder stick. Brazing would effectively clean it with the heat and wire brush as you work. Welding my cause more problems then you already have with burning hole as you try to weld it.

Mike M · Mar 21, 2018

After sandblasting take a mig welder to them. Works good.

Steve@Advance · Mar 21, 2018

I would use whatever method I feel most comfortable and experienced with.

One thing I have found though, attaching a plate over, or cutting out the damaged area is more successful than trying to bridge over with weld, braze, or solder.

showcrop · Mar 21, 2018

I could see problems in getting it to "tin". When I soldered the outlet tap back on a fuel tank once I had to really work at it to get the solder to completely cover the surface.

Ken Macfarlane · Mar 21, 2018

Mig works great for this.

JoeM(GA) · Mar 21, 2018

if there's much to the holes, clamp a piece of sheet copper to the outside to cover the holes, then mig the inside, it won't stick to the copper so it gives you something to have a a backer while welding

Bret4207 · Mar 21, 2018

(quoted from post at 08:54:23 03/21/18)
I could see problems in getting it to "tin". When I soldered the outlet tap back on a fuel tank once I had to really work at it to get the solder to completely cover the surface.

Had problems soldering steel too. Got some good advice on a gunsmithing forum- When you flux the steel and start to add the solder, rub the solder in with steel wool. Seems to work good so far. It gets the metal to take the tin.

IanC · Mar 21, 2018

Solder will work if you get the CORRECT solder. Go to a body shop supply and get that, electric solder has a different composition, and uses different flux. Used to use it at the body shop where plastic filler would not hold up (edges, door openings, etc.).

Dean · Mar 21, 2018

I tried to solder pin holes in a set of MF power adjust rims once after sandblasting but was unsuccessful.

I ended up brazing the holes. Worked great.

Dean

Leroy · Mar 21, 2018

I know nothing about mig so I would say brazing as that is hard when done and what solder I have seen I do not think would be hard enough for that and I have no idea if you could grind the solder smooth or not but brazing you can.

jeffcat · Mar 21, 2018

Just adding my little two cents. Soilder will work. I use the Good plumber paste. The Real stuff not the cheap junk. Also in depot the soilder past they sell "oakly"???? works very well too. Green and white can. Also use plumbing soilder. It is strong and sets hard. Electrical soilder is soft. Preperation is critical. Absolutely NO rust at all. Also you want to use stainless steel wire brush. Those metal cleanin tools actually poison the surface. JUST enough heat because you will burn the metal and solder. Have fixed one rim, several gas tanks and some rusty surfaces that all came out very nicely. You are getting plenty of advice.

dr sportster · Mar 21, 2018

Best method

shaun wallace · Mar 21, 2018

I have used body filler where lots of small holes and pits are in them.

Paul in MN · Mar 21, 2018

My successes with rims have been with MIG and brazing. I'll save the soldering for radiators and gas tanks.

Paul in MN

Paul in MN · Mar 21, 2018

MIG is the cheapest and strongest solution.

Paul in MN

dr sportster · Mar 21, 2018

The guy Joe has it right Back it with copper and MIG the holes .This keeps it all steel.

ss55 · Mar 21, 2018

If there is a lot of pitting and pin holes, then stopping the rust with phosphoric acid and lining the rim with an old piece of inner tube or spreading pickup bed liner might be better than solder.

big jt · Mar 21, 2018

My preference with pits etc is to use a oxyacetelene torch and wire to weld them in. I just use 11 1/2 soft black wire I get at the farm store.

Works for me and I always tell the tire guy what I did when he mounts up the tire and first inflates it. If possible I try to make sure he puts it in the cage.

I really don't think of soldering as being a structural repair, more for leaks or electrical connections. Look at how easily it bends compared to steel. Also I would think it would be the most expensive option, price solder and compare it to brazing rod.

For me the gas welding works. I don't have a wire welder or that would be another option but I just like the heat control with gas to avoid burning through.

jt

gene bender · Mar 21, 2018

sand blast getting metal clean on the inside of the rim then fiberglass them will last forever you can use body filler for what holes are left but the resin will fill lots of them

504 · Mar 21, 2018

I agree with big jt, if you have never welded with a torch just grab a price of flat steel and practice a little.

Anyone ever solder a rim?

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