1965 Ford 1 ton not running correctly part 2

old

Well-known Member
So I have been trouble shooting this run problem.
#1 check vacuum hoses and capped them off no change.
#2 pulled 3 of the plugs out and checked how they looked. They where a good brown in color so that say it is running right as for plugs. But I ordered new NGK plug for it but the Champ plug number they had trouble crossing over to NGK. Plug number is RF11YC so maybe an obsolete plug number.
#3 put a vacuum gauge on the PCV hose and at a fast idle it was reading 20PSI so not a vacuum problem.

Thinking maybe I need to either check fuel pump pressure and or open up the carb again and double check all the passageways
 
Hi Old -- after reading both posts on Your Ford I would agree there is some little clog in the carb. some little orfice is open but not all the way -- good luck and keep us posted --- Roy
 
I am thinking if it has 20 psi it has a MAJOR vacuum issue, doesn't it? Not to be real picky but...
 
Hey lazywp - if Old needs the choke closed a bit to keep it running would the vacuum reading be above normall ? just My thought on that --Roy
 
I have a 65 with a 240 straight six (smaller version of the 300). I guess I am getting old. #860 was the standard plug for those engines years back.

If it runs steady but bogs when you try to rev - seems it has to be the accel pump, retarded timing, or engine too cold with intake not getting properly heated.
 
20 psi at idle is very good vacuum. Back when I had my Dodge van I had a dash mounted vacuum gauge and most of the time it ran around 15psi. I used it because keeping the PSI up as your driving helps save gas and that van got very bad mileage as it was at around 13 MPG
 
You think I really know?? Ya I know most likely going to have to open up the carb again. Which I was hoping not to have to do LOL
 
When you hit the throttle it runs like you have all at once poured in to much gas but with out being choked it will not idle. As for timing it has not ben touched in over a decade and pretty sure Ford was like Chevy in there straight 6 engines and used gear drive cam so hard for timing to change on it own. I have not checked the points as for gap but pretty sure there still ok since it has a good blue/white spark the jumps a 1/4 inch plus gap
 
Sounds like carb. If you can get the rpms up and block off the air several times it may suck something through. Has worked for me in the past and doesn't cost anything. Is it possible you got some bad fuel? I have a old Ford that quit running good so I parked it. An associate that often came by with his gas guage on empty showed up and as usual needed some gas. I said sure, that one doesn't run so siphone some out of it. Well we both had crappy runny trucks then. I was happy. Him, not so much.
 
I'd drop the fuel tank and get a sample. How long has it been since you drove it any distance, At least siphon some fuel into a quart jar and swirl it around and lit it sit for 12 hours, 50 year old tank. not used much, no way it is not contaminated.
 
I tried the hand over the air intake of the carb today a couple time but did not help but I cannot get full hand over it because of the air cleaner holder being in the way and not removable.
 
There yo ugo a gain bugging me when you have been told not to go jump in a lake you have no clue and never will
 
Rich, have a 64 ford here that was doing the same thing. Carb off 3 times before I finally found a clog. Keep at it and you will find it.
 
WP might be pointing out that automotive vacuum gauges are commonly calibrated in inches of mercury (Hg) not psi. An inch of mercury is about 1/2 psi. One atmosphere is about 14.7 psig or 29.9 inHG. If it was possible for an engine to draw more than one atmosphere of vacuum 20 psi of vacuum that would be slightly over 40 inHg.

Standard sea-level pressure, by definition, equals 760 mm (29.92 inches) of mercury, 14.70 pounds per square inch, 1,013.25 ? 103 dynes per square centimetre, 1,013.25 millibars, one standard atmosphere, or 101.325 kilopascals.
 
I'm not in the middle of this , Old , but GordoSD is actually giving you some helpful advice . There could be trash or other contaminments such as water in the gas tank . I'd check the gas tank too on one that has been setting for a while especially if it's 50 years old !

Whizkid
 
Old, one thing to check on the 240-300 fords is the intake they like to crack the ear on the first cylinder causing a very slight vac leak
Warm it up good the spray some carb cleaner/ brake clean around the intake at the head . They can crack near the intake where it?s hard to see
Another thing is they like to sheer the gear off the dist. Some times running rough before the pin gives out completely
 
+It would be a Huge help for us OLD Ford guys to know what engine your working on and what carb is on it . Is it and F E block or is it a Y block or is it a small block and this i doubt . As most one ton's of that time frame were the F E 352 two BBl and if so then it will be running a Auto Lite 2 BBl carb . They are sorta like a Holley and a lot of running problems are caused by a bad power valve inside . Now as for plugs used in them should be a BF 42 OLD number in Auto lite. Ing timing should be around 5 degrees BTDC . NOW if someone changed that engine out to say a 67-68 360 there were some of them that did not run right due to being missed timed due to the Harmonic balancer being assembled wrong and had the timing set way retarded . and some the outer part slipped and when setting the timing by the light you set them incorrectly and they ran like cow poop . So pull #1 and pull the valve cover and check for correct timing . And other thing here is with and old sloppy timing chain they have been knowen to skip a tooth as they used a Nylon gear on the cam . IF old momery serves you vac is a little high as they normally ran around 16-18
 
Well believe it or NOT before Motorcraft back in the day it really was AutoLite . As back in them days i was playing the lets go fast in the quarter and i ran one of them cars that everyone said would not go fast , but mine did go fast . and Auto Lite was a division of Ford as they were helping me go fast .
 
That 240 was a good engine. Sounds to me like you either missed something in the carb or the old vaccume advance is sticking. I've had both happen on those engines and had the same symptoms. BTW - if you happen to accidentally drop that little ball you'll regret it! lol BTDT
 
(quoted from post at 00:22:55 03/16/18) If it was possible for an engine to draw more than one atmosphere of vacuum 20 psi of vacuum that would be slightly over 40 inHg.

If it is a vacuum, it would be minus psi.

He corrects people on here all the time, but if you correct him, then you're bugging him.
 
(quoted from post at 17:33:07 03/15/18) Fords require Motorcraft spark plugs. Never consider Autolite OEM.


In 1965 I bought a new ford mustang,289 V8.At 10000 mi I did an ignition T/U.You know,points ,plugs condenser,cap and rotor.Had 6 motorcraft,2 champs and 3 heat ranges for plugs.
 
As per what a correct vacuum gauge reads is a 20PSI of vacuum.

If your talking about what I said to Gordo he has been nicely asked not to ask my post many many times and he ignores the request and other on here have also told him to leave me alone
 
I guess you have not seen the other posts I have made on this truck.
1965 Ford 1 ton 300 straight 6 1 barrel carb. Not sure what brand carb but most likely a motor craft. Timing etc. has not been touched in over 20 years so it should not be off since timing doesn't just jump out of place on these engines. Also if I remember right this engine like many 6 cylinders uses a set of timing gears. This engine also only has 80,898 mile on it. One problem I have run into as for finding part is that this truck is a fleet truck and was owned by the state of Missouri up till my dad got it
 
I have already sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake carb hoses etc. and no change as to how the engine runs. As for the gear on the distributor this truck has been running this way for a very long time and I am tired of it and know it did run better but it also does not get used much other then when I need to haul gravel onto the driveway
 
I do not care what he says. He has been asked many, many times to leave me alone and others have also told him to but he keeps it up. As for the gas it had almost no gas in it so it should not be the problem. Oh and by the way what he says, says he has no clue he doesn't even know where the gas tank is
 
Either way be it HG or PSI the vacuum reads well with in the green on this vacuum gauge meaning it has good vacuum so it is not a vacuum problem
 
So have you taken the carb apart and cleaned the passages?
That is about the only thing you have left.

It runs smooth near idle when choked= getting enough fuel to run due to increased vacuum created by pistons pumping and choked.
Which is enough to pull fuel into engine, but without choke not enough vacuum to overcome clogged or restricted passages from bowl to intake.

I am thinking.
 
you say it does not have much gas in it and a 50 year old tank it has water in it and you are sucking off the bottom gordo gave you good advise get a sample of the fuel let it sit and see if there is water in it, your asking for help don't your panty's in a pinch
 
Gas coming out of the fuel line at eh carb has been check and caught in a jar to make sure it has enough flow and does not have water and it has good flow and NO WATER
 
Gas coming out of the fuel line at eh carb has been check and caught in a jar to make sure it has enough flow and does not have water and it has good flow and NO WATER.

He also has no clue as to where the tank is so as I said he has no clue
 
NP i did not see the other posts . BUT you say the timing has not been touched in twenty years HUMMMMM, strange . since i first started working on engines that sucked gasoline that has a Distributor point's and condenser and a Vac. or centrifugal advance system in them I check timing with each and ever point's change . Now back in 65 that carb would either be a AUTO LITE or a Holley and you say 300 well Maybe , Back in them days' i did not play with 6 cylinders . I was into the V 8's of the F E family . . so explane again what it is or is not doing . and then maybe i can answer you question . The company i worked for back in those days bought me a brand new F 350 one ton four wheel drive and it had the 352 2 BBl that stayed a two BBl. for like three days and was changed to a four BBl with dual exhausts and steel shim head gskt. . still remember the tune up spec.s on it and the Auto lite plug # that came in it .
 
This is a former state of Missouri truck so a fleet truck. 1965 wit ha 300 straight 6. In the last 15 year it is lucky if it has had 30 miles put on it so only one set of points put in and that was last year. I also rebuilt the carb at that time and since then and before it would only run and idle if you had it choked 3/4 or so. Not had new plugs in it in who knows how long and likely to be over 25 years ago since the local auto parts store could not even cross the Champ RF11YC plug to any other plug so those are obsolete plugs
 
Hi Old,

I can't speak for the holley carb on those but I have had a few with air leaks between the throttle & bowl castings on the motor craft carbs. Plays heck with the idle and transition circuits.

Double check the gaskets on the bowl to top & throttle castings as sometimes the passages aren't punched quite correctly. (Been bit by that one before)

Saw a comment re the check ball earlier and thought i would add that there is a brass metering weight that sits on top of the ball, the acceleration circuit will overdose early and starve late with out it. Some of the kits don't show or inc!ude it but believe me it is needed!


Have had many a 300 over the years and always liked how smooth they run.


Some of the later ones used a plastic cam gear that had a knack for becoming a drum at the most inopportune time but that was well afters yours.

Good luck and keep us posted please!

Carl
 
Old from my days of playing with Mopars that Champion number means
R = Resistor plug
F = Ford 18mm, tapered seat, 11.7mm reach
11 - heat range smaller numbers is colder
Y = Extended tip
C - Copper core center electrode
A conversion website that comes up when you google RF11YC a Motorcraft BF42C is a replacement plug among many.
 
Old,
If I lived closer I would be happy to come on over and have a look, but it's a bit too far. As you know sometimes it's something simply overlooked and needs two pairs of eyes even for the best (been there done that too many times). From your posts it is obvious you have already repeatedly checked everything suggested even though you probably did it before the suggestions and had reached a point of frustration.

You are the fourth most frequent poster of the YT membership and have more experience than probably 98% or more here.

It is time for Deus ex machina.
That being said I am going to pull the covers over my head and just want to know what it is/was. I am out.
 
As it sits right now and the way it idles Which is a high idle I have hauled and dumped 6 loads of gravel just it is a pain to get it to speed up and a pain to have the feather the clutch to get it rolling
 
I did rebuild it about a year ago but since then while the rebuild did not fix it, it has gotten worse so guess after putting in new plugs I'll pull the carb again
 
Understand well the 2 pair of eyes thing. I remember back when we lived in Mississippi we had a 1971 GMC pickup wit the 250 straight 6. Ran just fine as long as it was not real humid but poor when humid. My dad took it to a shop and they could not figure it out. I was looking at it in there shop and touch the distributor cap and figured out real fast what was wrong. Crack cap so when humid it would short out. That truck for some reason ate caps.

As for having so many post any more with my health issues I can work for an hour or so then I have to take a break so I jump in the computer and try to help others. Funny thing is with mechanic's I have never taken so much as one minute of shop class of any sort I have learned what I know with books and the road of hard knocks
 
About 1973 I bought a sick (6) cylinder 57 Belair 4 door for $25. The Oil pump was bad (cavitating?) and it also needed a new piston/rings. After getting it going it would not accelerate very well and only got 14 mpg.

It had a relatively new factory rebuilt (Rochester or Carter?) carburetor. Took the top off and found the brass accelerator pump pipe? had somehow been flattened at the end during rebuild. Cut it back and voila. Still only got 14 mpg.

My knowledge was obtained the same as you. Mostly hard knocks and oops, I don't believe I just did that (Wile E. Coyote and Acme). Did eventually learn to have more patience before rushing in where angels fear to tread.
 
My road of hard knocks started at a young age. Back when we lived in Leigh NE there was a repair shop just up the road from the house we lived in. Dad was the preacher at Zion Lutheran church. Any how I got job at the shop as a go for/clean up. I might have been 9 or 10 at the time. Got paid mostly with candy bars and ice cream bars etc. One of the first jobs I help with was fixing a gas tank. The old guy had a car running wit ha hose from the exhaust going into the tank. He sat me in the office and told me to stay there till he came back in but if I heard a big bang to call a number. No big bang but that taught me a bit. Also around the same time my dad gave me his old lawn mower. He had just gotten a new Toro lawn mower. He ad traded in his old mower then bought it back for buck an gave it to me to play with. I took that thing apart so many time I can not even count but it ran when my dads new one would not
 
(quoted from post at 11:46:51 03/18/18) My road of hard knocks started at a young age. Back when we lived in Leigh NE there was a repair shop just up the road from the house we lived in. Dad was the preacher at Zion Lutheran church. Any how I got job at the shop as a go for/clean up. I might have been 9 or 10 at the time. Got paid mostly with candy bars and ice cream bars etc. One of the first jobs I help with was fixing a gas tank. The old guy had a car running wit ha hose from the exhaust going into the tank. He sat me in the office and told me to stay there till he came back in but if I heard a big bang to call a number. No big bang but that taught me a bit. Also around the same time my dad gave me his old lawn mower. He had just gotten a new Toro lawn mower. He ad traded in his old mower then bought it back for buck an gave it to me to play with. I took that thing apart so many time I can not even count but it ran when my dads new one would not

How old were you when you got a job on a NASCAR pit crew?
 

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