New Machine Shed

Cmore

Member
I?m looking at purchasing a new Machine Shed for my Farmall?s. This shed would be 40 by 64 with gravel , no concrete for now, two 20 ft doors on each 40 ft end and one man door. Also translucent panels at top of 64 ft sides.
Does anybody have any experience with Cleary Buildings?? They seem to be about 35% less money than Morton Buildings.....
I know you get what you pay for but man, that?s quite a difference (10,000) for a 64 by 40 Shed.
Please advise and thanks.
Cmore
 
My parents garage (30x40) is a cleary. I don't know of any problems with the building in the past 20 yrs it has been up. I do know the garage doors were purchased separately. They live in Central Nebraska.
 
I would pay a little extra, and get a second man door on the opposite corner. PITA to walk all the way around the building to get the wrench you forgot to grab.
 
I am not a fan of either building. Morton would be my last pick. I do not like trusses on 8ft. centers with 2x4 purlins on edge. The best building will be 4 ft center trusses with the 2x4's down flat. In our area there are several amish crews that will build a building to your specs better and cheaper than any of the others. Tom
 
They have a shop/office about 5 miles from me. Been there several years so must be doing something right, or they'd be gone or I would have heard thru the rumor mill bad things. gobble
 
I think our Lester kit we put up years ago IIRC has 10 foot spaced trusses with 2x6 on edge. Seemed pretty strong set up. Only thing I did not like and it has proven to not be a good idea was the insulation kit was wide rolls of fiberglass with vinyl on one side that you roll over the frame work and then nail the roofing and siding over top of it. Siding has some holes rusted on the one side where moisture got trapped in there at the bottom.
 

I put up a 36'x60'x10 Morton building about 18 years ago. Roof leaked right from the start. Morton made a couple of feable attempts to correct it. Roof still leaks. I will never recommend a Morton building.

If you have any Amish in your area, contact them. Quality materials, quality workmanship, and they get the job done in a very timely manner.
 
I had trouble with the 'local' Cleary dealer getting back to me. I think the main company is fine, no experience personally tho.

So my shed is a Morton. They were actually the only builder of 15 that did get back to me! This was back when $7 corn and everyone was busy building....

Anyhow, I like the stuff you mention you want, as I see it you are putting in value for your money with what you have chosen. If I understand the sunlight panels are in the sidewall, not in the roof itself, which I hate hate hate those plastic panels in the roof itself, they always bust out long before the shed is old. Good plan. The plastic on the sidewall lasts much better.

As someone else said, there are only two things I would change on my shed.

Make it bigger, of course. :)

And add that second man door on the far end. Didn't realize that would be a deal, but I find myself walking around the shed extra so very many times......

Paul
 
Put up a Lester's pole shed in 2001 and a Morton in 2012 at our family farm place where my dad lives. Both sheds have their advantages over their respective competition. With the first shed, the crew who erected that building at that time preferred the Lester's building over others. They commented the lumber used by the company was better quality at that time versus the other brands. The crew foreman was rather critical of the Northland buildings at that time. In both cases, we secured some quotes from all three of them. Just a few years ago, my father in law obtained a quote from a local lumber yard who spec'd out a building of "bookshelf" type construction. He had a concrete contractor pour a foundation and floor, and the bookshelf style walls with trusses every 4 feet is how it was constructed. A neighbor of mine put one up just like it. Both sheds are insulated and lined with white steel. This style building looks extremely well built and nicer to finish off inside. I do not know how the price compares to a pole style, but I suspect it will be more expensive. As far as the end doors, and if you live in a climate with snow to contend with, if you are going with sliding doors, it might be worth considering those which run on tracks inside the building rather than outside. Outside doors and tracks are more of a curse in the winter and dealing with the snow..........in my opinion. I just know I cuss my sliding doors after every snowfall, as I have to scoop them out every time. I would also make sure you build up some sort of a "pad" where you place this building, so that water sheds away from the building. With the shed at my place, this was not done, so I can find water freezing up where my doors slide open and shut, resulting in them freezing shut. One winter I couldn't get anything inside or out for three weeks with the doors being frozen shut. Very aggravating! Make sure you have some ventilation so as to minimize moisture build up inside the building, too. We thought we had overkill on the Lester's shed, but we get some dripping from the trusses and purlins under the north slope of the roof when it warms up in the early spring. I have questioned if we could place some sort of fan for added air movement to minimize or even eliminate that. I am not sure, but I thought Morton may have offered power driven ventilation fans in their cupolas for this purpose.
 
Mine was put up 9 years ago-60 x 120-16 ft. walls-24 ft. end door 18 ft. side door. Bought at Menards and the Amish put it up--Did a good job--have $38,000 in it.---Tee
a261236.jpg
 
I put cleary up about 17 years ago.. 43 x 63. Crew of 3 had it finished in weeks time.. Great guys as far as I am concerned.. Also I do my own repairs so I have ordered sheeting edge etc from them and never had problem getting parts..

I had bubble wrap put on ceiling before metal for insulation agains condensation.. DONT USE IT.. after 17 years the bubble stuff gets brittle and has started falling or braking and hanging down..

When I looked originally I called lester, morton, cleary, one other that has slipped my mind..

I only wish I would have made trusses two feet taller to get a 14' ceiling hight.. oh well..

I have since built a 24 x 36 myself which after putting that up I kinda wish I would have built the larger building on my own.. but i didnt have skidloader then either so all worked out..
 
I put up a 30X48 Cleary building five years ago.

Nary a problem. They had the whole thing up and done in about 3 days.

I see a lot of them around.
 
I used these guys back in 2004 to put up a pole barn:

A&C Builders out of Oklahoma.

http://www.aandcbuilders.com/


Their 3 man crew showed up on Saturday afternoon and started work and finished about 6:00 Sunday night (30X40X10 building). 14 years later it still looks like a new building and has never leaked. I paid a few hundred extra and had the tin screwed on instead of nailed and that also seems to have paid off.
 
My neighbor had a barn put up last year, I was surprised at seeing to 8 ft on cent trusses. I built a 40x40 with 2 ft on center trusses. I?ve seen a couple feet of snow on mine, I didn?t think a 8 ft center would work.
 
Not when you have an 8 ft span compared to a 4 ft span. Some companies toe nail them into the trusses rather than run them past at the joints as well. If you help build a shed with 8 ft centers and walk around on it before the steel is put on the building feels springy. The 4 ft trusses with 2x4 flat feels much more solid. There are lots of 8 ft center buildings out there but I just prefer the added strength of the 4 ft centers. You never know if you overbuild but will find out if you underbuild. Tom
 
Trusses can be designed for any external load including 2? of snow on 8? cl trusses.
The best buildings in Indiana are put up by Farm Builders Inc (FBI).
 
Did a Menard's 30' x 30' x 11' on 10' centers.
EC NE snow load.
They kept the purlins vertical & dropped them down on hangers so the tops of the purlins were flush with the tops of the trusses.

You know you can "Save Big Money at Menard's." :)
Now that jingle will be stuck in my head for a couple days!
 

No matter what brand of building you choose put at least two walk in doors one at each end of the building. You will always be at the wrong end when you want to go into the shed with only one walk in door. both of my sheds has two walk in doors.
 
I am building a hay shed now (for squares). Menards pricing is competitive to everyone else's but when you get 11% back it really helps with the pricing. I bought the posts, screws and some of the wood on Saturday and will be getting over $100 back from them - about that time I'll be ready to buy the purlins and tin - most likely at 11% off.
 
I think with Morton your are paying way too much for the "Morton" name plate on the end of building and their so called warranty
 
A few years ago, we put up a 156' x 60' x 16' eave Pole Building, had the Straw Hat Union put it up for me. Spent $58k, Morton buildings quoted $135k. The math won, and I saved a ton of cash. If you have access to any Amish builders it may well pay for the hastle of picking them up and taking them home every day. They put up our building in 4 weeks.
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:29 03/14/18)
I put up a 36'x60'x10 Morton building about 18 years ago. Roof leaked right from the start. Morton made a couple of feable attempts to correct it. Roof still leaks. I will never recommend a Morton building.

If you have any Amish in your area, contact them. Quality materials, quality workmanship, and they get the job done in a very timely manner.

I have a 54x90 Morton put up in the late 70’s. It leaked in a few places then and still does. Late last summer I got up on the roof with a half dozen tubes of caulk and fixed most of them but I expect more to pop up. On the positive side, the finish on the steel sides and roof on our Morton still looks like new, well, maybe faded a bit. The finish on all of the other brands built in that same time span has chalked away long ago.
 

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