Portable generator for the home

What brand of portable generator would you recommend for use as backup for a home, where power can be lost for 2 or more days while living in the northeast/New England. Looking at Generac-8000.
 
I have Generac 10000 but have a well to power had it 5 years good so far I also wired house with transfer board just plug and go.
 
ALWAYS a lot on negative comments on here about GENERAC but here is a photo of the one I had installed when we built this house 7 years ago. You can see I split the services and have the essential things on the side where the generator kicks in automatic . Uses propane from the heat tank and so far has been perfect. Had one outage where it ran for37 hrs continuous and overall has about 190 hrs now. Would not be without something as we are in a very remote location and usually the last one to get power restored when the storms hit.
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I have a 8,000 run 10,000 surge Briggs & Stratton and runs about 9 hours on 1 tank of fuel. It runs Well,gas furnace,frig ,& freezer And almost every thing Else in house. The only thing i can't run is Electric water heater,clothes dryer, and several baseboard heaters. I can run Ac if I shut everything off. I put a transfer switch switch in.

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coutland I would recommend the Honda 4kw or 5 kw depending on the load you want to power in emergencys. get a manual transfer switch installed so you are not feeding power back down the line! linemen get grumpy when you backfeed power down a line they are working on :lol: I have had other brands and they are noisy, the Honda's are whisper quiet and you will hardly notice them running.
 

Loads being operated? Do you have a tractor with a pto? What kind of breaker panel is currently in service ? The add on slide interlock system is rather clever and effective IF properly designed and installed.
 
Before you buy one, google "wattage use chart" to see what the stuff you really need is going to consume. It shows what furnaces, deep freezes, etc. use. Gives you a better idea of how big you'll want. Look a little deeper into "start up" surges (like your furnace blower) it's all important.
 
I just have a 5000 coleman. Very loud. But will run our house shop and horse barn. We have all LED lights. Also a heat pump water heater.
 
Last year I bough a used Onan 20 Kw natural gas unit. I installed it myself and used the manual transfer switch I already had been using for years with the 8 Kw gasoline Onan powered Dayton unit. You can buy a really nice older,used Onan or Kohler unit for many times less than a new unit. They are very durable and dependable quiet running 1800 rpm units that will produce their rated output continually and give good service.

You will need to add up all your power wattage/amp requirements that you need and then just go ahead and double that figure to get a good handle on what you will need. Most portable type generators are 3600 rpm units that are noisy and some are only going to last maybe 50 hours or so. The old cast iron/steel units are heavy,but durable and parts are not too hard to get. There is exceptions to all rules though.
 

Courtland, I am in NH and though Generac had a bad rep for a few years after they first came onto the scene, I believe that they are better thought of now. For the last 2-3 years I have been seeing Generac service trucks in the area so apparently they are supporting their product. I second what B&amp;D said about the slide interlock. The interlock allows use of all circuits, though you must be judicious of how much load you actually put on your generator. Most people have a 6-10 circuit load transfer panel installed, then after the first power outage they call the installer back to add another panel for the other circuits that they need.
 
If you have a propane tank or natural gas buy one that will run on either then plum you a line to the generator and no worries about refueling.
 
I run a Honda and it works good, iv never put in a converter in just a pug in from the Honda and the garage plug. All I do when I need power is get it all ready to go then shut the main brake off for the power from the power comeing in the house. This way theres no power going out to the power lines just the house. Works good and when the power comes back on u just unplug the gen so theres no power from it and then turn the main house brake back on. This way theres no 300 to 800 dollar converter
 
(quoted from post at 09:02:46 03/08/18) I run a Honda and it works good, iv never put in a converter in just a pug in from the Honda and the garage plug. All I do when I need power is get it all ready to go then shut the main brake off for the power from the power comeing in the house. This way theres no power going out to the power lines just the house. Works good and when the power comes back on u just unplug the gen so theres no power from it and then turn the main house brake back on. This way theres no 300 to 800 dollar converter

Are you frigging serious ? Telling us how smart you are and how much money you saved ? By the way it is not a “converter “ . The proper legal and safe connection is a “transfer switch”.
Telling us that can not afford a breaker panel interlock kit ?
 
You can buy what is called a Tri-Fuel system. NG/LP or Gasoline. What fuel you chose depends on where you live. NG/LP is good because of no choke,burns cleaner and no fumes as with gasoline. In some locations LP or Gasoline are the only choices. Doesn't matter what fuel you choose. Have the generator out where the wind can carry the fumes off. In the garage with the door open is not enough. Never use the dryer plug to feed power into a house. Have a proper transfer switch installed.
 
I bought a new Generac 10000 a year ago last fall. Seems like a good unit, but outside of a test run I've never had to use it for real.

Might not be quite as quiet as some Hondas I've heard, but it sits by the meter pole a hundred feet from the house so noise is not an issue.
 
(quoted from post at 09:02:46 03/08/18) I run a Honda and it works good, iv never put in a converter in just a pug in from the Honda and the garage plug. All I do when I need power is get it all ready to go then shut the main brake off for the power from the power comeing in the house. This way theres no power going out to the power lines just the house. Works good and when the power comes back on u just unplug the gen so theres no power from it and then turn the main house brake back on. This way theres no 300 to 800 dollar converter

I hope you are not serious. If you are, I wonder how you sleep at night? You are risking someone's life. Even if YOU personally are rigorous about making sure to disconnect from the utility, how can you guarantee that you will always be there to be the one to do it?

Your propeprty will eventually sell to someone else - even if it is after you are gone, it will eventually go to someone else. They may not have a clue about how you gimmicked the system and could be responsible for an accident. Good grief.
 
I have been dealing with Generac since 1980. While they do have some good units. Some are junk. But the biggest problem is customer
support. They don't have any. I have worked with many dealers and companies. None as bad as generac. Hard to tell a customer of a
generac. That his new generator was not covered under warranty. Because it was in storage while the house was being built. If you buy
one. Take care of it and keep records. Have only Generac shops work on it while under warranty. Will give them less of a reason to
cancel your warranty.

If noise is going to be a problem. Find an old Onan or Kohler. 1800 unit.Plenty of them out there and still parts to be found. Many
that can be updated to new controls. I have a 1KW for my truck. Powers just what I need. Built in 1932 two pulls on the rope and it is
up and going.
 
In Ohio and I have a Sears 3500 Watt 110 volt only that my late father-in-law bought in 2005. It sets in an out building and I just run a extension cord in a cracked open window. Has run over a week at a time. The cord was hooked up with multiple outlets so I could hook up everything at once. Had 2 refrigerators and 2 freezors all hooked up at same time. Have enough lights that plug in so not a problem there.Would not run well pump. Heat does not require electric.

Main point is lible to be running for a week or more and not a day or 2 and easy to put in tempory wiring to keep a lot of items going. And one that size will do more than you think.
 
I will say this. If you plan to power your house. Have a proper transfer system installed. One that will take your house completely away from the line side. Not the dryer plug or any other system. That has not been approved. I don't care for the interlock system. But is better than nothing. I use what I call a knife switch.

In the up position it connects the line side to the house. In the middle nothing is connected. Down position and only the generator is connected. The dryer plug idea is the most dangerous system on earth. And you do not want to see what it can cost you. If some thing goes wrong.
 
I am on my second Generac, the first one a portable and the second one a pad mounted with auto transfer switch. Both have been flawless. Would buy or recommend nothing but a Generac.
 
I know. Most know more than I do. Even though I have been at this. Since 1968. Amazing how many experts are out there. I knew of one guy that spent almost a million dollars. Over the dryer plug. By the time the lawyers,neighbor and insurance company were through. He was broke an divorced. Lost everything. All over a save money dryer plug.
 
I like my Honda. Quiet, easy electric start, no low oil worries. I hope Generac has improved as others have said. I had two that roared loud and had to fill the oil when I checked the gas. First one low oil switch failed and threw a rod (techumseh engine) second one seized ( briggs).
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Showcrop, I agree with you on that. I don't have a way to plug the generator to house wire, Just use an extension cord to items that are unpluged.
 
No Keith I am in Texas. But I belong to a group at Smokstak. We have people world wide that are willing to help. Some of us know the systems and some are learning. But we all come together to help. All for free. I have been at it since 1968.
 
A lot of the portable gen sets produce VERY dirty power. They will fry a computer or other electronics. I had to replace about fifteen furnace control boards after we had a major ice storm. Landlords ran out and got portables to supply power so as to avoid frozen pipes.
The preppers have an interesting solution. Run a generator, and power a battery charger with it. Have a converter hooked to the batteries, and size it according to critical needs. Fridge, a few lights etc.
 
(quoted from post at 22:28:02 03/08/18) In who r you talking to about this.

Are you promoting the use of a double male ended cord between the generator and a welder or clothes dryer connection and no transfer switch . If you are , you either don’t underatand the danger , you don’t care or you like the rush or thrill from risk. Btw what is a converter ?
 
Why would u try to plug in to a welder or dryer outlet with a generator ? Any one that knows about electricity knows that there 220 power and all u need is 110 to power up the freezer and fridge and the heater and maybe some lights. If you have the newer ones and some led lights that don't take much power it works good.
 
They use the plug because it will work. BUT if some thing goes wrong or someone turns on the main breaker. But for gets to unplug the generator. You will get to watch the generator go up in smoke and could take the house with it. If the insurance company finds it. Insurance can be canceled.The most important reason not to use it. It is a danger to linemen. They can and have been killed by that system. That is why you need the proper equipment to take your system completely away. From the line side.
 
Actual name is an Inverter it will make 110 or 220 AC power from DC. Seen a lot in RVs and campers, If I understand some of the newer smaller generators produce DC power and the inverter changes it to AC,
hearing the power from these is a bit cleaner and not effected as much by engine rpm.
 
I under stand that and when I did this I'm the only one here that knows how to do some thing with the power going off for three days. the generator was out side and I did not want to loose any of the meat and food. When u are in something like the bad storms going thought the area a guy that has worked for his dad back in the 70s tell now I know what to do if things are need to be done. I know power ratings on wire what wire is need for a draw on them and always do a load test on the wire and generators braker just because is says 30 and 20 will it trip at that and should be tested. Turning the main brake off in the house made sure no power came out of the house to the down power lines and made the guys safe there heck I even had power to watch the flat screen and see were all the other storms were going.
 
You sound like the person that don't even know what there talking about. Gimmick the system I did gimmick any thing just some thing to get by tell the power is back on and this power cord is not hooked in for full time use only the one time to get by. I'm the only one here so maken sure the main power is turn off the the power comeing in is safe for the line crew so no risking of someones life isn't there on accident so that been said now you can sleep better at night. Good grief.
 
I was trying to say that also but some people don't under stand that. One thing I do is when camping at sites that have power for the motor home is I have a tester to test the power at the out let. Some of the places wire have there wires wrong in them and its putting power on the wrong side wreaking the tv , disk player and other things. A guy at this camp site said that he had to take his new camper in to see why when they pluged in they would get a shock going in and out. We took my tester over and found out the outlet was wired wrong and it was maken the camper hot and going in and out they were making it ground out.
 
(quoted from post at 06:27:17 03/09/18) You sound like the person that don't even know what there talking about. Gimmick the system I did gimmick any thing just some thing to get by tell the power is back on and this power cord is not hooked in for full time use only the one time to get by. I'm the only one here so maken sure the main power is turn off the the power comeing in is safe for the line crew so no risking of someones life isn't there on accident so that been said now you can sleep better at night. Good grief.

You just are not understanding any of this are you . Between the lack of electrical knowledge , a disregard for safety , over confidence in your ability and pride in “beating the system”. You can stop offering electrical advice on how to connect a standby generator here , on any other site and with anyone else you converse with.
There maybe some farmer fixes here on this site to get by by to the end of harvest or to get home . I can speak for everyone here that we do not condone dangerous stuff.
Pardon me for being grumpy but I will not standby when someone makes something dangerous in my trade .
 
So what is your trade, loud mouth is sounds like. You say you speak for everyone on here when you cant even speak any electrical knowledge on here. So why don't you take and pull your big girl nnalert out of your crack and then maybe you will not be so grumpy lol .
 
I have been working on generators since 1968. So I will not try to change your mind. Because I know that is pointless. I have heard I know what I am doing. Many times. Have seen people killed or injured. But they knew what they were doing. All it takes is one mistake to kill you.

What you are doing is dangerous. It will come back to bite you some day. Good luck.
 
OK, that is where I ran into you. I go there occasionally. For some reason I thought you were in the Seattle area. I got some great info on a Lincoln Weld-n-power that I was fixing for a friend.
 

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