Lightbar on a IH 886

I'm thinking of putting a lightbar on the top of my IH886 that has a canopy open cab. I use the tractor to spread manure which seems to be always after dark this time of the year. I was wondering what size I should use, curved or straight and if anybody has done it and how they did the wiring. I was thinking a switch for the front and a switch for the back run directly from the battery?

Any input would be great.

Joe
 
This afternoon I will take a pic of the light bar on my 1086 and post it for you. It lights up the whole world in front of the tractor.
 
I just upgraded two tractors to LED lights and I am impressed with the results. I believe the LED lights take less than 1/5 of the amperage to power up versus the incandescent lights. You could retrofit your existing bulbs and add some more LED lights, or LED light bar, as needed. The improvement you are likely to see with just the addition of the LED's might be sufficient to meet your needs. As I recall, the LED lights are available in Hi-Lo, Trapezoid, and Flood beams. I think it is something to at least consider looking into. As I indicated, I just upgraded 2 tractor, and I am going to upgrade 2 more and a combine. I purchased mine through Larsen Lights. Good luck.
 
I found some at Walmart, of all places.

About 20" long, and others available. Found them in stock at Super Walmarts. I've put 3 on so far, very bright, well made.

They also offer a wiring kit, comes with all the connections to wire 2 lights. Has a fuse connector, relay, switch, everything for about $15. Only drawback, the kit controls both lights, can't be operated separately.
 
We put on some 22" bars on some tractors here,20 and up will do a great job. Shop around and online like Amazon. We paid $59 CDN free shipping no tax for basically the same light local hardware stores want $200 for.
 
Here are some pics if this phone will behave for me. I didn't measure it, forgot to. It has 86 LED's or thereabouts. The switch is in the cigarette lighter hole in the dash. Power comes from the battery side of the relay down in front of your toes. The power wire is fused right after the wire leaves the relay. This thing is so bright you have to turn it off if you are meeting a car.
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When shopping, pay close attention to the mounting method.

I put a single bolt mount 9" LED bar om my 72" deck lawn mower.
The single bolt mount bracket broke from vibration after about 6 hours of use.
I would not buy one with "thin section" aluminum bracket.

I would also look at getting a few that are like less than 20" long versus one giant 50" plus unit.
Then you can have one aimed out from all four sides of cab, etc.
Plus one smaller unit would be cheaper to replace than the giant version.
 
Second pic. See that duct tape patch on the upper windshield? The patch is positioned so the glare from this light off the flat black exhaust pipe doesn't blind me. I forget where I got this light but was not cheap and is well built
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No matter what style you get, it would still be best to run power through the key switch. In case the light switches get bumped on and not noticed, you do not have a dead tractor. I know you would notice them on at night but maybe not during the day.

Rodney 8)
 
(quoted from post at 16:46:16 12/04/17) No matter what style you get, it would still be best to run power through the key switch. In case the light switches get bumped on and not noticed, you do not have a dead tractor. I know you would notice them on at night but maybe not during the day.

Rodney 8)

Yes, I forgot to mention key switched light. You can use the other side or big lug of the cab relay for power, the side that's dead when the key is off. The key switch itself doesn't have enough oomph to handle the power requirement of those lights even though they are LED.
 
on top of cab [john deere] to much reflection back in windshield from hood,muffler intake, so I put them out front on fuel tank and weight bracket....40'' flood and spot. 4430,4440 4640 4850
 
I have a loader on my tractor, that’s the reason I put the light bar on the front of the cab roof. The loader framework blocks out the tractor lights. Another idea is to replace the regular sealed beams the tractor already has with LED replacements if you don’t have a loader on this tractor. I got some for $39 apiece. It’s amazing how much better you can see with that white LED light.
 
Two things. I have been playing with LEDS for Years! You want the CREE type of LEDS. They work much better that the COB type. Go on U-Tube and look up light bars. Sit back and see all of the different stiles, types, and ways to install these things. Very very educational.
 

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