Do I need a new carburetor?

IH 454, disconnected the throttle arm from the carb and made me a control arm, I can get the carb to idle up are down like it's suppose to but I have noticed that the throttle plate does try to move on it's own. When I hook everything back up I can't get it to idle down below 1K rpms and it won't idle up past 1900 rpms and it runs like sh**. I've been through this carburetor many times, Jim@advance sent me a cut away of the zenith carburetor and I've gone through it with a fine tooth comb.this carburetor was in pretty sad shape when I rebuilt it.
 
As Glennster points out, the throttle plate must be correctly installed Top bottom, and left right, or it will not seat on the main bore of the carb. There are 4 possible, one correct to install it. Second there are three possible sources for plate movement (on its own) One is if it is loose in its slot on the shaft, two if its shaft is loose on the actuating lever, three if it is loose in the carb body where it pivots. Jim
 
I don't think so but I'm willing to pull it down again and look before I drop 300 buck for a new carburetor. Before I couldn't do anything with the idle adjustment now with everything unhooked I can adjust it.
 
Check the throttle shaft and bushing for wear. If they are sloppy air can get sucked in around them and make it impossible to adjust the carb. Did your kits include new shaft and bushings? I did one on a gas Farmall 706 this past summer for a guy. He had rebuilt it a couple of times. He got the cheapest kit he could buy. When I did it I made him order a complete kit that was about twice the cost. They only thing I could find wrong with the carb was excessive throttle shaft wear. Tractor runs great now.


Rick
 
before you pull it apart, place the throttle to the idle position and check the position of the linkage, if all is adjusted correctly on the linkage. then drop the carb down and peek in the bore. return the throttle shaft to the position you noted at the idle position and examine the butterfly. it should be closed fully. if not either the butterfly is in wrong or the throttle shaft is clocked 180 degrees out.
 
Look at that throttle plate closely. You will see the edges are beveled and like others have said, only one way it will fit properly. If the bushings are loose you will never get it to run nice regardless. If you can get it to idle down nice and slow and speed up to high idle specs by operating the throttle shaft manually, your governor linkages are not proper. Most likely wear in several places besides proper adjustments. Throttle has to move that arm on governor all the way to low idle and against stop for high idle.
 
Dunno what you've got going on, but having to replace a tractor carburetor that is not physically broken, or completely rusted up is RARE.

NOT sure what your level of experience is, but if not an experienced tractor "wizard"/GURU" and you had a local experienced "tractor buddy" more familiar with this, it might avoid spending $$$$$ for a new carb from "The Land of Almost Right".
 
A guru I'm not but I follow instructions very well, to me this carburetor is good but I felt it would be better to ask.alot of the tractor was in buckets when I got it. I think my trouble is the governor is not adjusted right.
 

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