Cultipacker bearings

DCD999

New User
I recently purchased two cultipackers, one eight foot and the other four feet. One of the cultipackers had hard plastic type of bearings as shown in the attached picture, the other had no bearings. The plastic bearings actually work fine in both cultipackers. I would like to obtain a second set of these plastic bearings if possible. Is anyone familiar with this type of bearing and where I might be able to get them? The bearing is 3.5" wide, 6" long and 3" thick. It includes a 2" diameter hole for the cultipacker shaft and two additional holes that are used to fasten the bearing to the cultipacker. I have used the cultipacker a number of times and this type of bearing seems to hold up very well.
Any assistance would be appreciated.
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You might consider using <a href="http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=implment&th=20480">wooden bearings</a>.
 
I agree with the others those are home or shop built out of high density plastic.
Also agree that wood would work for a looong time and would be cheap.
You might even find a hole saw that is pretty close to the right size and make them up yourself. They arent high tolerance by any means. Figure out a way to grease them somehow
 
Beech wood has always been preferred here for bearing material on old packers. I have a furrow packer with plastic bearings. It is so noisy you can hear it squeaking far away if I don’t squirt oil or water on the bearings every now and then. They have no greasing option.
 
I would say that's just a block of UHMW plastic. We use in our water lift pumps as a shaft / impeller steady at the bottom. Usually 1 3/4" - 2" shaft. In our case the water lubricated...they are bored a few hundred oversized.

But if they are dry and tight, I have seen it grab and gall/wear.

I pulled an old pump apart from the 60's. It had a hardwood wooden block as the steady bearing. The impeller rotation and the pump probably being out of whack caused the weight of the impeller to push one way. The wooden bearing had oversized a bit but the shaft had worn down about 3/16" from the pressure. That was some hard wood... and probably poor quality shafting.

Anyway a block of hardwood is cheap... try it. Drill in from the side with a 1/8 hole and put in a greese zerk for lube.

Good luck. Grant
 
Many many years ago on a JD feild chopper the PTO shaft would whip just a little bit. My dad was working part time at a place that had all kinds of teflon blocks used as bearings. He was allowed to take two pieces and the machinist line boared them and drilled mounting holes across. Even taped a zirk fitting in. Took the two halfs and bolted everything up on the center of the tounge shield bracket. Gave it a shot of grease and it lasted for years. Now , the old grist mills had lots of bearings all over 5he place. EVERYTHING was made of wood. Most of the bearings were hard woods but the best bearings were made of apple wood or hard rock maple. Here is a post from the smokestak site about wood bearings. Also Google a company up in Maine. Woodex. They still make wood berarings for all kinds of stuff. My dad and I were always fascinated with real grist mills so I have done some research on them. Toured a few here and there. For the guys in my area, you wouldn't beleave how many mills were up and down the Delaware river 150 years ago. There were some places that could have a cluster of five or six mills at the end of a little stream, and another cluster two or three miles away. They would get flooded, washed away, burnt, blow up, and they would just rebuild them. Fun researching.
 
Delrin would be the plastic of choice as it is self lubricating. Without grease to attract dirt and the slow turning of the shaft it will likely still be servicable when you are long gone. Another name for Delrin would be acetal. It is very easy to machine and fairly cheap.
 
I used white oak for the three sets I made for my packer. I also gave them about 6 coats of rattle can enamel to protect them from the rain and sun. I did learn after the first one to drill just one bolt hole in the bearing, put it on the shaft, bolts it up to the bracket, AND THEN drill the second bolt hole. Insures a perfect fit.
 

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