engine runs rough

tractor runs fine at idle when cold after about five minutes you try to open the throttle then breaks up real bad backfires then quits any help

What are we working on?

Anything been done so far?

Most likely running too lean.Open the load screw. But could also be points or condencer.Would help to know what tractor you are talking about.And gas or diesel? Assumeing it is gas however.

It would speed things along if you could provide the following information:

1. The tractor make and model.

2. Gas or diesel

3. How long you have had it

4. Is it kept under a shelter?

5. When was the last time it ran correctly?

6. Did you use fresh fuel?

Lack of info makes it hard for us to help you help your self. There are thousands of models of tractor and with out knowing what you have it is hard for us to be able to give you info as to how to fix your problem since one fix does not fit all. The fix for say a 9N would not be the same as for say a A/C XT190 diesel

it is a 1952 ford 8n I have had it for about a year it has not run right for about a month was using the all of a sudden started running like crap now it has a new carb,new points and condenser,plugs I flushed the fuel tank just can't get it to run

it is always kept in a garage

Okay, now we have a starting point.

1. Before starting the tractor check the radiator level and the oil level. Make sure the oil is not milky.

2. Start the tractor. When it starts running badly stop the engine feel the ignition coil to see if it is hot. It could be opening up or shorting out. Had a Jag once with a Lucas coil that would intermittently short. Drove me crazy isolating it.

3. Make sure the rotor brass flat spring is contacting the corresponding button inside the distributor cap. Also check that the rotor arm brass arm is almost touching the projecting studs inside the cap. If there is too much clearance this can cause the problem.

4. Make sure that the new capacitor is also not faulty. Within the last 1-1/2 year I have seen a Jubilee cut up like you describe. The points, plugs and capacitor had been replaced. Turns out two replacement capacitors were bad. Some of these aftermarket sources suck.

5.Replace the Champion spark plugs with NGK plugs. I have had brand new bad ones. I know it is presumptuous of me to assume you have Champions.

6. Make sure the high tension lead from the coil is not bad. Check it with a volt meter. One quick check of your ignition is to crank it at night and run it in pitch black. If it is shorting it will look like a Christmas tree.

Just in case it is you fuel system open the bowl drain plug on your new carburetor and catch the fuel in a container making sure you get a good flow of gas. Naturally disconnect the battery before you do this. You might have a line stoppage or even a problem with fuel cap not venting. This can be really evident if there is a sudden drop in atmospheric pressure such as a passing heavy shower.



That is all I have for now. Everyone else will chime in with their suggestions.

I forgot to add this: I have never seen this, but check the inside of the distributor cap for carbon tracts that indicate high voltage jumping across the Bakelite surface of the cap.

My first guess would be the points, but that's a guess.
New points, especially cheap ones, are junk with a plastic rubbing block.
But even quality points have anti-corrosion shipping coatings that need
to be cleaned off before they are put into service. Clean and re-gap.

When it doesn't run right, immediately check for quality spark.
An adjustable gap spark tester is about $8.
Spark should jump a quarter inch or more.

Double check your firing order too. 1-2-4-3 COUNTER clockwise.

If the spark checks out Ok, then pull the drain out of the carb.
Turn the fuel valve on and catch the gas in a clear jar.
That way you can check it for dirt and water contamination.
It should run a pint in about 2 minutes, in a fairly steady stream.
That doesn't mean your carb is working right, only that you have
adequate fuel flow. I would prefer to use/rebuild the original carb.

If you choose to keep the aftermarket carb, I would be
interested in the original carb you took off the tractor.
I rebuild many of them for fellow forum members every year.

Royce,

I had forgotten how easy it is to mix up the ignition wires. In addition I made a goof when first working on Ford tractors. For years I worked on cars where the firing order was 1-3-4-2. I thought they were all that way until I worked on that Jubilee. Then I found that the firing order is 1-2-4-3. This was an embarrassing revelation.

Since then I have found there are 4 different firing orders even in four cylinder car engines. Do all engines have the firing order cast into the block, head, or manifold?

"Do all engines have the firing order cast into the block, head, or manifold?"

I don't want to say "all", but at the least, most do.

As you pointed out, the wires are easy to swap around.
Also easy to get the wrong rotation, since some turn CCW and others CW.

Hey oleyellow816.

Any sitrep yet?