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Low Compression On Tractor Thats Been Sitting For Years

L

Lanse

Well-known Member
Evening guys!

So, I'm trying to fix up an 800 series Ford that I got for basically nothing. Its been sitting for many years... But the engine still turns! When I ran a compression test on it, theres only about 30 PSI per cylinder, however.

Is there anything I can do to help this, or is it engine rebuild time? Perhaps this is why they parked it... Machine is complete, engine looks fine, even engine oil looks good (just black, no water/metal/etc in it).

Thanks for the input, guys...
 
If it was good before it sat the rings may be stuck put some marvel mysteri oil in the cylinders and let it set a while. Then check it again they might free up.
 
Did you put any oil in the cylinders?

If not, and it has not been run, the cylinders are dry, possibly some stuck rings, rusty cylinder walls.

Put about a table spoon of engine oil in each cylinder, turn the engine through a few times, let it soak while you clean up the fuel system.

Then spin it through to blow out the excess oil, see if you can get it started. It may free up the stuck rings, polish out the rust.

If you can get it running, put it through all the motions, drive it around a bit before going in for repairs. That way you can find all the problems, make a decision before getting in too deep, fix it all if you do go into it.
 
There are those that believe either straight ATF or a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone work better for freeing up rings and helping a low compression issue.
 
I have an old 2-cylinder Wisconsin on a corn stalk chopper that I only use once a year, I usually have to squirt sone oil in the cylinders to get it started. It's got a good hot impulse mag and a priming port, but it needs the oil.
 
I have run into that many times over the years. Fill the cylinder with ATF put the plugs back in and then if it has a vertical exhaust pour ATF down it till it cannot hold any more as in if it starts leaking out stop. Walk away form it for a week or 2 and after that if there is any hope to it that will have freed things up. If after that compression has not come up good chance it has stuck valves or complete wore out
 
A compression check on a "retired" tractor that's been hanging out and relaxing for a while means absolutely NOTHING, and I'm not sure why you wasted your time doing it?????

Get the darned thing started, even if you have to enlist the help of a qualified helper to pull start it, WORK it, warm it up, then evaluate it after that.

'Course, I guess throwing some "snake oil" at it won't hurt anything but your wallet!
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:22 10/07/17) A compression check on a "retired" tractor that's been hanging out and relaxing for a while means absolutely NOTHING, and I'm not sure why you wasted your time doing it?????

Get the darned thing started, even if you have to enlist the help of a qualified helper to pull start it, WORK it, warm it up, then evaluate it after that.

'Course, I guess throwing some "snake oil" at it won't hurt anything but your wallet!
Click to expand...



With about 30 psi in 3 of 4 cylinders it won't run, the old 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix in the cylinders, and let it sit. Trying to start that tractor like it is, is a waste of time.
 
watched your videos....I see you have all that junk off that tractor.
That's a nice tractor...its looks wouldn't scare me a bit.
In the video, you said you were going to put some oil in the cylinders..good. I'd make sure the valves were moving and lube em up. (yes, that valve cover will come off if need be with the tin and gas tank in place)
Clean the carb, clean the distributor, verify spark, get some clean gas going into the carb............and like Bob said....fire that puppy up. Watch the oil pressure gauge when it starts....be ready to shut it down in case there is none or the engine starts banging.
Betcha it'll run. (working on hopeless junk is my hobby...and that one is a gem hiding in moss/rust)

ps That is a 5-speed..nice. neutral is in the middle of the shifter throw. In neutral the shifter moves up and down. R-3rd at the top, 1-2 in the middle, 4-5 at the bottom. Very nice when you get the hang of it.
 
You can pull it around and see if it builds oil pressure without starting it. That way things get lubed up prior to trying to start it. Might save a rod thru the block if things are in a bad way.
 
My brother bought a JD 1010 diesel crawler that had been through 2 previous owners who couldn't get it started. He couldn't either. Somebody had the valves ground. All the magic marker writing was still on everything in the valves and what not when I tore in to it. I took the pistons out and all the rings were stuck tight in the grooves. I soaked them in benzene and it wouldn't loosen them. I had to use a little punch and break them in to pieces to get them out. I cleaned the grooves and put new rings in it,put it back together and it started right up.
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:22 10/07/17) A compression check on a "retired" tractor that's been hanging out and relaxing for a while means absolutely NOTHING, and I'm not sure why you wasted your time doing it?????
Click to expand...

So your advice is to never do a compression test until you have an engine running?
 
I have a Ford 9N I backed in to the garage in the fall. It hadn't run all winter. I went to start it in the spring and couldn't. I started throwing parts at it and still couldn't start it. I decided to put a post on this site for help.
I can't remember who it was, but someone here told me to put 3 ounces of ATF or Marvel MO in each cylinder and let it sit a couple days. Then turn it over and add 1 ounce per cylinder, and let it sit overnight. Then start it.
Well, I was a little skeptical, and didn't bother moving all the stuff in front of the tractor. The damn thing started almost instantly and filled the garage with smoke from all the Marvel MO.
I couldn't believe it. I thanked that guy over and over.
What a great source for help this forum is!!
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:16 10/08/17)
(quoted from post at 22:22:22 10/07/17) A compression check on a "retired" tractor that's been hanging out and relaxing for a while means absolutely NOTHING, and I'm not sure why you wasted your time doing it?????
Click to expand...

So your advice is to never do a compression test until you have an engine running?
Click to expand...


I guess he likes to beat on dead horses. I put a engine into a Bobcat skidsteer which according to the owner the engine was supposed to be a "good used running engine". Guess what it wouldn't start/run, why? hardly any compression because the rings were seized into the pistons.
 
Back in early 80s I bought out FIL. He had an old uni-system he tried to start 6 mo prior. He never bought new points. Just filed the old ones. Washed cylinder walls clean attempting to start. Anyway by the time I got to start it, it was stuck. Pulled head, made oak block to fit pistons. Tapped and tapped while trying to bar it over. Finely got it loose and back together. Not enough compression to start. On advice of old JD mechanic we filled crankcase with correct amount of 10W oil, pull started it, let fast idle for 3 hrs. Changed oil and filter to correct grade and ran it for 2 years with no problems and no oil usage.
 
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