CCM 165 Drum Mower

Tooler969

New User
Hello everyone. I just purchased a used 165 drum mower. The previous owner used a hydraulic cylinder to tilt it up. When I purchased it he removed the cylinder and replaced it with a piece of log chain since he had lost the flat bar that went in its place. I want to replace the chain with a piece of bar flat stock like it should be. So if someone that has one of these mowers can give me the measurements of the bar and the hole spacing, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank You,
Thomas
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The arrow is pointing to the piece I need the dimensions and hole spacing[/img]
 
I have no idea...But you can put it on your tractor,set it level and measure.you could drill an extra hole or two for adjustment.Or make it two piece with multiple holes for adjustments.But,I wonder if it should have some flex,like a pivot bolt in the middle.I would think 1/2"x1 1/2" flat stock would be sufficient.
 
I agree with Delta, Making it such that it can fold in the middle if the mower hits something seems like cheap insurance. A flat level concrete location and a tape measure would do it. Jim
 
(reply to post at 08:03:09 09/20/17)
As far as being worried about it being able to flex or move if it hits something, it has a kickback built in in case it hits something .
Thank you
 
Is Haytools still around, wasn't that his last handle around here, he used to promote those and sell them quite a bit. Had an earlier handle and
web site, but some family stuff changed and he went out in his own? Somethning like that?

Anyhow he could tell you right wuick if he's still around.

Paul
 
I have the CCM 190, (another name on it, MInosAgri - but exact same unit.) So my measurement would not match your machine. If you set machine in the position in the picture, you should be able to approximate the dimmension pretty closely. The upper link has slotted hole which should allow enough flexibility. (Where the heavy spring is.) Be sure to relesae the blocking lever when in operation. Adjust your 3 point links so the vertical post on the yoke is pretty much vertical. When in operation, I lower 3 point until pto is approximately horizontal. Top link on 3 point can then be adjusted to level machine front to back on the ground.
 
I have a Minos Agri 165 which is the same exact machine (changed the name) the bar is 37 1/2" from hole center to hole center. You will like the mower, we like ours and sold our Galfre & will be buying another Munos. My bar is made of probably 1" pipe with u shape ends of 1/4" flat stock bent. The chain will do the same thing as the bar, both will let the mower raise on the outer end. The chain might let the mower bounce a little more if in the up position and you hit a hole but I really doubt it. Keep your belts adjusted, if you hear them slip on start up better tighten them a little (not a lot). Keith
 
Thanks Keith and everyone else for the information. I look forward to getting to try out the cutter for the first time.
 


I have a Agromaster DM 3075, 6' 2 drum cutter made in Turkey. Most of these drums appear to be of the same basic design so I would
assume what I am about to say should pretty well fit your machine with minor changes even though they are from different mfgrs.

The following assumes the mower is in the mow position when you mount it. It could be accomplished in the transport position but you'd
have to extrapolate the differences in directions I mention herein, in particular the left and rights.

The slot in the upper link, which is directly behind the 3rd member of the 3 pt connection is for mowing on slopes. The slot allows the
mower to tilt up or down with respect to the position of the tractor when the locking/parking bar is flipped back out of the way. I think 15
degrees is the number for mine.

When you approach the mower to mount it, the locking bar should be flipped over so that it locks the roller at the far right (while standing
at the rear of the tractor looking at the unit) to allow for lifting the whole platform with the 3 pt for transport or parking. If not it makes it
very difficult to get the unit mounted. The leveling box on one of the 3 pt arms has to be significantly mal-adjusted to get your mounting
pins in the 3 pt lift arms....adjustments which you will have to remake as mentioned below.

The length of the bar you speak of that you want to replace at the end is not all that critical because the position of the 3pt can be varied
to compensate for any errors in dimensions:

Assume you got it mounted and can transport it. Get the tractor and mower on flat, level ground uniform to both tractor and mower. Leave
it running to operate the hydraulics.

Level the 3 pt. (left to right looking from the rear of the implement toward the tractor) with the leveling box mounted on one of the lifting
arms of the tractor. Lift the 3pt slightly to take the pressure off the locking bar so that you can flip it out of the way and then lift the 3 pt
till the bearing that rides in the slot is centered....space on both sides of the bearing for it to move left or right.

Get out/off of the tractor and go to the left side (street side) looking at it and at the vertical position of the mower. It should be vertical to
the tractor's attitude front to rear looking from the side. Purpose of this is to ensure that the drums are flat on the ground, not tilted
forward or backwards which would cause scalping on the lowest side. If not vertical, adjust the length of your 3rd member (top link) of
the 3 pt on the tractor till it is.

Look at the two drums. They should be sitting perfectly flat on the ground. With all the above accomplished, make your bar and drill the
holes so that the bar will fit the mounting holes.

I used a 3x24" cylinder on mine to replace the flat bar so that I could lift my drum section to about 80 degrees vertical allowing me to
transport it without having to go to the trouble of moving the drum section straight behind the tractor in the transport position, which
requires the removal of the PTO drive shaft besides the other things. The yokes on the cylinder didn't fit the holes in the mower so I cut
and drilled a couple of pieces of flat steel as adapters to make things fit.

On the trip function mentioned by a responder herein: On the right side, behind the right wheel of the tractor is the spring loaded trip arm
which also serves as the locking mechanism to keep the mower at right angles to the tractor when mowing. The spring on it is part of the
release mechanism which allows the drum section to slide to the rear about 30 degrees if an obstacle of sufficient resistance is
encountered. Backing up with the mower on the ground will reset it.

On using the conventional transport position first disconnect the PTO shaft. Then the breakaway bar mentioned above is disconnected at
the front so that the drum section can swing to straight behind the tractor. The easiest way to do this is to leave the drum section sitting
on the ground and with the arm disconnected at the front QD pin, drive forward slowly while turning the steering to the left. The mower
will follow you and line up easily. Otherwise raise the 3pt and you and a couple of 200# guys can push it to the rear into position. There is
a tubular arm that fits over the mounting pin for the breakaway bar (where you disconnected it) that locks the drum in the transport
position.

I guess I got that clear enough to understand.

HTH,
Mark
 
Thanks Mark. Lots of good useful information. That should help me get started out on the right path with this new (to me) machine.

Thank you,
Thomas
 
There is no need to disconnect the PTO shaft to put the mower in the transport mode. Simply remove the reset arm. Back the tractor up till you can connect the transport arm and raise the mower & go to wherever you are headed. We travel with ours and have never removed any of the PTO shafts.
 
When you guys pick your machine up off of the ground (in the cutting position) how far out of level is it? How much travel on the lift arms after the outside drum touches the ground till the inside one touches? I've been used to a sickle mower where the inside touches first.
 
My mower drive shaft is at right angles to the mower section. In the transport position it's pointing due East and off center to the East if the tractor is pointing due N. No way can a pto shaft remain connected (for long) with that situation.

Even if the yokes were lined up I see no way it would work on mine. PTO shaft will not rotate 90+ degrees to the side of the yoke. To aggravate that situation my PTO is electric independent and is locked by the PTO brake shoes when the engine isn't running so even if the dimensions would let it, if the yokes were lined up, it wouldn't rotate on it's own to allow for rotation to that extreme.
 
The amount of clearance is determined by the bearing position in the slot and the balance of the 3 pt interface part of the frame.

To get maximum clearance, you need to have the lock lever flipped over before you start lifting so that it will lock the bearing in the far right
(facing the mower from the tractor) position. That forces lifting action as soon as you start lifting. Not much, but it helps....any helps.

Same for the leveling box being used correctly on the tractor's 3 pt arms to get them and the mower interface level.

That's why I like the cylinder. You don't need to flip the lock lever. As you start lifting the bearing will roll over to the left side of the slot
and then the unit will start rising. Once at the full up position, you retrieve the piston which raises the outer portion . The edge of the
inside drum is still very close to the ground but it's pretty much in line with the tractor tire so it doesn't make that much difference.

Other thing on height is keeping your front end, especially left front looking forward from the seat, on the ground. I sometimes load my FEL
bucket with gravel to help when operating in rough terrain. Remembering the drums sit on the ground while mowing so there is very little 3
pt weight to carry. It's when you lift the unit you get the problem. It's a 3 dimensional thing: Feet of distance to the end of the mower,
pounds for the dead weight of the unit..mine weighs about 900# as I recall, and angle being perpendicular to the tractor making the left
front tire to get light.

With the bar the outside touches first. then as you continue to lower the 3 pt the inner drum will land.

I'm no expert but I have learned a few things over the years with it. My main problem is that I, like a lot of other folks, hay once or twice per
year and about the time I remember what I needed to do, I'm finished for the year.

The drums and support structures are really rugged. I don't worry about bending anything when operating the cutter.

Good luck.

Mark
 
Thanks again Mark for the information. I'm also that way, I have <20 acres and cut it 3 times per year. By the end of the season I've figured out what I had forgot from the year before.
Thomas
 


Texas Mark, how are you finding the drum mowers longevity to be? I've heard conflicting reports of "they last forever and working on them when they do wear out parts is easy" to "they break down all the time, you can't get parts and they are impossible to take apart and fix". To me, they look like a much better option than a 3pt disc mower, and at a better price for the same width. In my case a discbine would require the purchse of a much larger tractor, and I usually ted the hay anyway so the lack of conditioning isn't a big deal. The disc mowers I've seen all have the complex drive train that looks like a recipe for failure to me.

Interested in your thoughts.
 
I'm trying to remember when I bought mine.....I bought a new Branson 6530 in 2007 and I used it to unload my mower from a trailer when it
arrived. That puts my mower at around a 2008-2009 model.

The standard cutting height is set at 2" but I wanted more stubble so I ordered it with the 1" extension which the dealer installed for free
since I bought the mower and rake and harrow and 2 boxes of blades.....100 count, dual sided for twice the usage for $25 a box.....yes that's
25 cents each!!!!!! I'm not even half way through the first box! On stubble length, I took a measurement in a sorghum sudan field one day
just to see what it was and it was 4 ? inches. That suits me fine.

What I like about the drum discs is that your stubble length is guaranteed, not hit and miss like was the case with my JD 1209's. Regrowth
for the second or third cutting is really dependent on the sugars stored in that stubble to get the regrowth started and no stubble or short
stubble, very retarded regrowth.....BTDT

Several years later I decided to double up on the cutters...each drum comes with 3 but there are places for 3 more which I chose to use. I
had to change the timing on the discs so that the additional blades would clear each other when rotating......reason for the change was I
just felt like doing it and I thought it'd be a good idea for cutting small stemmed grasses like Common Bermuda which is one of the grasses I
cut for hay and it doesn't grow very tall.

To change the timing you needed to slip a couple of teeth on the drive train to one of the drums. That means popping the cover and getting
into the drive train box. The drive mechanism is 4 HD belts on a shaft having a pinion output gear to the drum drive shaft which runs along
the top of the machine inside the long rectangular center section. The inside is about half full of 85w-140 gear oil so there is plenty of oil
for lube and cooling. There's nothing else in the drive line except the shaft, bearings, gears to the respective drums and 2 clamps to hold
the shaft in place and the similar gears on top of the drum shafts.

The drum has bearings at the top and bottom of the vertical shafts. The top discs containing the blades are driven but the bottom disc is
free wheeling so it can follow the terrain and react accordingly.

That's all there is to it. Built like a tank, few parts and they are very HD.
 
I have a CCM 190 mower that was purchased in 2011. So far I have replaced belts once (a year or so ago), had a bracket for the top cover break and had it welded back, and had the bearings in one of the discs go bad. Cost was $117 for 2 complete bearing stacks including shipping. Easy to change out. Only other think is that I hit a harrrow in a field a few years ago. Bent up the outer drum pretty bad. Rebent it back to make it usable then replaced the drum. New drum cost $250. That hit on the harrow would have destroyed or seriously maimed a discbine.

I am however going to buy a discbine. We are wanting to bale legumes and I find that the drum mower, combined with using a tedder is too harsh on alfalfa, etc. Will likely keep the drum in the event we need to bale some heavy grass. It cuts thru that like a hot knife thru butter.

John
 
That's something to consider just like my JD 1209 swather. If you didn't drop the shield to scatter the remnants, it would WW them for you.
I never did Alfalfa and always used the built in WWs because I don't like the tractor tires to be on cut product and I like a clean, well defined
start line for the next lap.
 

"Wind Wow"? Must be kinda like a "wind whoa" which is a cousin of a "wind row".

Learn sumthin' new every day!
 

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