Radiator Stop Leak?

Anyone use the Stop leak ? Ive got a Farmall Cub with original muffler everything and been on tractor so long really dont want to
Cut it off to remove hood. My radiator has small leak at the top section and was wondering if the (AlumAseal) would work on the "old Iron" so wouldn't have to remove everything?
a171924.jpg
 
I used something like that once and it worked, but my favorite is Barr's stop leak, I have had good luck with it. I know some are going to tell you that it's only a temporary fix and take it apart and fix it right, but I have had it work for many years. It depends on the leak, if it's a crack that's vibrating and moving it probably won't work.
 
Without a water pump to circulate the coolant it will settle to the bottom and not mix well. You could try and drain the coolant then mix the solution well then pour back in and that just mite fix the leak. Iv had too many of those systems apart and found the stop leak stuff at the bottom. Mite attach a fitting on the drain add a small pump and return the line into the fill part of the radiator with engine running that just mite work also but the solution does need to move thru the system to work.
 
I use 'Dike' by Conklin. that stuff WORKS.got some in an F12 that leaked like a sieve. Now there is only a damp spot or two.It baisicly saved the radiator. It's not available in stores,you have to get it from a Conklin dealer.Order a case.
 
My experience is that if you mess around with something like that you'll eventually get other heat related issues that you wouldn't have had if you'd done a proper fix when you could have in the first place. Just say'n,,,,,gm
 
As a rule I stay away from stop leak as it tends to clog up the system especially alluma seal.

With that said if I have to use something for a temporary fix,
I use Barr's leak.
Have always had good luck with it, and a some of new car
Manufacture's install a small amount at the factory.

If your dealing with a split of some sort, rather than a hole or rot, then none of it will work.
Tom
 
Never had any success with stop leak when the leak was at the top of the radiator. Down deeper, where it stays submerged, maybe. But up top, not much chance.

Also stop leak requires "some" pressurization and circulation to work.
 
I've had really good long term results from Barr's Leaks in old tractors. Like Gene said, in a thermosiphon system (no water pump, no pressurized radiator cap) get it good and hot so the water will be flowing fast and then pout it in.
 
When I built my BA which is half Farmall B and half A I used a used head gasket on it and I noticed it had a small bit of as leak at the head so I used Bars leak copper in it and it has not leaked in over 5 years now
 
(quoted from post at 10:55:54 09/16/17) I use 'Dike' by Conklin. that stuff WORKS.got some in an F12 that leaked like a sieve. Now there is only a damp spot or two.It baisicly saved the radiator. It's not available in stores,you have to get it from a Conklin dealer.Order a case.
my local NAPA carried that stuff worked really really good on a couple projects I have had
 
I have used silver seal and bars leak both, and had very good results with either.
 
Ordinarily, I would say that stop leak will just gum up the system - at least on cars with the heater core being the first thing to get clogged. BUT, on a tractor, that is usually not much of an issue. However, as others have said, without a water pump, you will probably not get enough coolant circulation to get the goop to where it has a chance to work. Better to have the radiator repaired.
In any case, stop leak is only a temporary fix at best.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:57 09/16/17) I remember guys using pepper for that.

Yes, black pepper. Our Farmall B had a leaky radiator. My son poured black pepper in it and the darned thing sealed up. I don't know how long it will last because we haven't used it for the past couple of years.
 
K-Seal is a decent product. It is about $15 a bottle but after buying a few cheaper bottles of other stuff that doesnt work, its worth trying better stuff.
 
If you take the front grill off you may be able to access the leak from the front .If so clean the area well and solder the leak yourself.
 
(quoted from post at 09:18:00 09/16/17) Anyone use the Stop leak ? Ive got a Farmall Cub with original muffler everything and been on tractor so long really dont want to
Cut it off to remove hood. My radiator has small leak at the top section and was wondering if the (AlumAseal) would work on the "old Iron" so wouldn't have to remove everything?
a171924.jpg

Back in the model T days, they used an egg or oatmeal to fix leaky radiators.
 
Yeah i said heack with it i pulled breather cap and wiggling muffler enough it pop off good. No troubles got down to leak it very small so went to napa bought me some water JB weld slap it to the top and all good now done start it up and no leak so far.....
 
I used to load manure with a Ferguson 35 with poor brakes and too big of a bucket. I kept Bars Leak on hand because I would slide into the spreader at least twice a year. I once bought a car that soon developed a minor head gasket leak. When the mechanic pulled the head he found that it had been hot enough to deform the top of one piston and the block was cracked between each of the cylinders. Someone had filled her with water then dumped in enough sealant to repair the cracked block. Then it got sent to the wholesale auction. The water jackets were kind of gummed up on their surfaces but it held. It's great stuff but remember you have to get the engine up to operating temperature and hold it there for a bit to get the best seal.
 

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