Wheel bearing change

Lou from Wis. · Sep 15, 2017

Thinking about changing wheel bearings on our J.D.(Van Brant)cultivator which is now a needle bearing system on the wheels.Both sides are shot and I don't want to re-do them with needle bearings again.I would think that ball bearings would be a much better system.Has any one on this forum made such a change and what problems did you have in making a switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated in part numbers, and would an automotive bearings with race be better? Might be that I would have to cut away the old axles and re-weld newer ones on.Your suggestions would be most helpful.
Regards Lou & Victor.

Russ from MN · Sep 15, 2017

Ball bearings are better suited for light load, higher speed applications, there is a reason most wheel bearings are Timken type tapered roller bearings. I have used car spindles for building trailers and had good luck, the trailer that I have hauled many 1 cord load of wood on is Chevy Monte Carlo I think. I have also used the bearing/hub assemblies from the rear axle of front wheel drive cars, but some cannot be taken apart to grease. Rambler spindles used to be popular because they just unbolted.

Andy Martin · Sep 15, 2017

Just curious, how long did the current bearings last?

Leroy · Sep 15, 2017

Do you actually have a needle bearing setup now? Or is it the tapered roller bearing? Nerver heard of a needle bearing in a wheel. Or are you having the old straight cage type roller bearings? And they should last for years with no problems. Those are on the hay rake I am rebuilding that was last built in the mid 50's and are still good for anouther 50 years.

Bob · Sep 15, 2017

What model is it? are these caster wheels or wheels under the cultivator? If under the cultivator, are there chain drive(s) to power lift(s) involved?

Janicholson · Sep 15, 2017

Roller bearings on smooth surfaces last for 50 years. They often run directly on the axle and inside of the hub with no separate outer or inner race. If these surfaces are worn, new will not work. They are also usually difficult to replace with a different type due to the compact nature of the originals.
I would look at two solutions. Both would use the original style roller bearings.
1) I would have the axle and bore of the outer race measured for wear. if they were straight/smooth, I would replace them with the same original cage and rollers. If worn I would have them welded up and machined back to original spec. (axle and hub both)
2) If worn, machining the axle and hub to match a larger roller would also be reasonable if there is enough meat left to remain strong.
Either way I would replace (or invent a method) the inner and outer seals, especially if there were none. Jim

used red MN · Sep 16, 2017

How many acres a year do you cover with this machine? If it is a 100 or less I'm certain my suggestion will work fine. You don't say what the model is or the design of it I have assume this unit may even be a steel wheel unit. Here is what I'll say. Unless it has rubber tires and is pulled at speeds above 30 mph 15 plus miles at a time a bushing with grease groves an inch or larger in diameter and 3 plus inches long with greaseable hubs will last a long time. Of course that is if they are greased daily when used. I should add they would at least require a felt doughnut seal to keep out dirt. The problem with many of those needle bearing type setups were that the seals were not engineered that great and dirt would get in. A needle bearing setup is not very tolerant of dirt and debris even if the "needles" are the size of wood pencils which I believe is the type of setup you are dealing with.

Leroy · Sep 17, 2017

And the size with the needles (rollers) the size of wood pencils are not called a needle bearing but a cage or straight roller bearing. A needle bearing they will be 1/8" or smaller in diameter and are for high speed aplications.

Wheel bearing change

Lou from Wis.

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Russ from MN

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Andy Martin

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Leroy

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Bob

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Janicholson

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used red MN

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Leroy

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